DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector

[Panzer948]

Thank you @Panzer948 for the great writeup! This, along with @Theherofails integration of the same camera makes this much easier for all of us to visualize, and makes for a great reference.

One question I have is how visible the Blackvue is to the outside of the Bronco? Would you mind sending a photo from the front showing how you've tucked the front cam up by the mirror?

Much thanks again-

Hi, finally got around to taking some pics yesterday. I use to do a little photography on the side so went out looking for some good backgrounds to go with the rig. Sun was still harsh in some of these but you should get an idea of what it looks like from outside.

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[Brianew]

well reading this just cost me some cash

 

[TommyBronco]

Do you need to install the BlackVue Power Magic Pro or just the BlackVue 3-Wire Hardwiring Power Cable CH-3P1? or both? Mostly using the dash cam for Parking Mode. I believe you can manually switch the power on and off with the Magic Pro. I guess I can save on downloads when I park it in the garage. I'm not sure if the battery discharge protection is built in the DR750 but I'm guessing that is part of the Magic Pro. I'm guessing I need both but I'm not sure.

I'm going with the built in LTE (BlackVue DR750-2CH LTE). Less stuff to see on my windshield plus save some money.

 

[Hippydrome]

Thanks. Definitely long winded but I thought some could use the detail as the vehicles are still so new. Matter of fact I welcome any responses for other ways to run the wires as much of this early stuff is trial and error!

Fuse #29 is a 15A fuse and #35 is a 5A. Do you use the same amp fuses on the splice or did you change them up according to the cam amps?

I don't know anything about electrical wiring except how to get shocked. )

Thanks

HD

 

[Panzer948]

Do you need to install the BlackVue Power Magic Pro or just the BlackVue 3-Wire Hardwiring Power Cable CH-3P1? or both? Mostly using the dash cam for Parking Mode. I believe you can manually switch the power on and off with the Magic Pro. I guess I can save on downloads when I park it in the garage. I'm not sure if the battery discharge protection is built in the DR750 but I'm guessing that is part of the Magic Pro. I'm guessing I need both but I'm not sure.

I'm going with the built in LTE (BlackVue DR750-2CH LTE). Less stuff to see on my windshield plus save some money.

No, as I mentioned in my original post the 900 is a three wire power kit which means it can sense parking mode as well as voltage on your battery. It will cut off once my battery drops to some preset level, which I have around 11.9 or 12... That should last a day or two while parking only. I am not sure if the 750 has the three wire so I would confirm. Of course you can add that Power Magic Pro, like some have done, if you would like longer parking mode coverage. This would make sense if your leaving your car unattended for a few days at a time. However, that didn't fit my driving needs... so as you said above, I saved a few bucks and had less to deal with.

Although you will not need the separate blackvue sim card module on your windshield, your 750 camera is almost twice the size of the 900 and isn't 4K. Pros and cons to each. I may move my module to the top of the dash to see if the coverage is about the same.

 

[Panzer948]

Fuse #29 is a 15A fuse and #35 is a 5A. Do you use the same amp fuses on the splice or did you change them up according to the cam amps?

I don't know anything about electrical wiring except how to get shocked. )

Thanks

HD

Shew, it's been a couple of weeks since I did the install so now going off memory.

Recall the fuse taps have two holders for fuses. The one "not" in line with the outgoing wire is for original fuse box so I would put the fuse that you pulled out of #29 or #35 in that spot, even if those fuse blocks are not currently assigned (keeps it to factory specs).

The fuse opening that is inline with the outgoing wire is what will protect the camera. I believe I used some spare 10AMPS there which is kind of middle of the road for something like this. However, keep in mind that the blackvue hardwire kit has a fuse built into the wiring, so it is already protected to the camera's specifications. See the picture below for the wiring harness that comes with the dashcam. I connected their harness to the fuse tap wire with the built in fuse still in place (you can see a large black cylinder at the top left just below the plug that goes into the back of the camera).

No worries about getting shocked on a 12 Volt system. The biggest thing you need to worry about is not to accidently ground bare wires with no fuse protection. I will not tell you how I know that...

 

[Hippydrome]

Shew, it's been a couple of weeks since I did the install so now going off memory.

Recall the fuse taps have two holders for fuses. The one "not" in line with the outgoing wire is for original fuse box so I would put the fuse that you pulled out of #29 or #35 in that spot, even if those fuse blocks are not currently assigned (keeps it to factory specs).

The fuse opening that is inline with the outgoing wire is what will protect the camera. I believe I used some spare 10AMPS there which is kind of middle of the road for something like this. However, keep in mind that the blackvue hardwire kit has a fuse built into the wiring, so it is already protected to the camera's specifications. See the picture below for the wiring harness that comes with the dashcam. I connected their harness to the fuse tap wire with the built in fuse still in place (you can see a large black cylinder at the top left just below the plug that goes into the back of the camera).

No worries about getting shocked on a 12 Volt system. The biggest thing you need to worry about is not to accidently ground bare wires with no fuse protection. I will not tell you how I know that...

Awesome and thank you for your reply.

Cheers,

HD

 

[tjnoffy]

Just started the install of my Blackvue DR750X-3CH Plus, and thought I'd share a picture of the panel under the steering wheel opened (to access the fuse panel) so folks can see what they're up against. Fuse panel is top left. Note the light blue tabs you will be pulling out and popping back in. The headlight and other controls mounted in this panel are connected with long wire harnesses, so you don't need to worry about them. I just started pulling from the left and right edges of the opening under the steering column and worked my way outward, popping the pins out. They were stiff, but came out with a few good tugs.

 

[tjnoffy]

@Panzer948 have you discovered/devised a way to turn off parking mode when home in a garage? I don't need it running when my Bronco is in the garage. Thought there might be a setting, like for the proximity sensor, but no. May need to wire a pushbutton switch into the battery power wire.

 

[Panzer948]

@Panzer948 have you discovered/devised a way to turn off parking mode when home in a garage? I don't need it running when my Bronco is in the garage. Thought there might be a setting, like for the proximity sensor, but no. May need to wire a pushbutton switch into the battery power wire.

No I have not. That would be ideal for me as well. I haven't seen that buried in the settings but it seems if they can set it up to default to your home wifi when in range, you can have a selection to say no to parking mode. I am sure they want to keep that optional since some may live in areas they still worry about tampering. But if it's in a garage, shouldn't be a concern.

Please let us know if you discover a solution.

 

[tjnoffy]

No I have not. That would be ideal for me as well. I haven't seen that buried in the settings but it seems if they can set it up to default to your home wifi when in range, you can have a selection to say no to parking mode. I am sure they want to keep that optional since some may live in areas they still worry about tampering. But if it's in a garage, shouldn't be a concern.

Please let us know if you discover a solution.

I've sent an email to Pittasoft customer support to ask. But I wonder if something like this wired to the battery power lead and mounted in the panel under the steering wheel, somewhere near the headlight switches, would work (I asked about this idea in my email, too). Could there be any downside to cutting power altogether? I think I read that the system's configuration is saved to the SD card, so it should just come right up with the correct config when powered on.

APIELE 19mm Latching Push Button Switch 3/4" 12V DC Power Symbol LED with Socket Plug 1NO1NC SPDT ON/Off（ Blue） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07932DMF4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_M1FA098GJQGZ042THSF1

 

[Panzer948]

I've sent an email to Pittasoft customer support to ask. But I wonder if something like this wired to the battery power lead and mounted in the panel under the steering wheel, somewhere near the headlight switches, would work (I asked about this idea in my email, too). Could there be any downside to cutting power altogether? I think I read that the system's configuration is saved to the SD card, so it should just come right up with the correct config when powered on.

APIELE 19mm Latching Push Button Switch 3/4" 12V DC Power Symbol LED with Socket Plug 1NO1NC SPDT ON/Off（ Blue） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07932DMF4/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_M1FA098GJQGZ042THSF1

What's funny (and convenient for me). I actually have that same switch (or very similar) extra for something I was going to do to another car but never did. I can look at putting it into good use now. I don't want to add some cheap plastic toggle switch!

 

[tjnoffy]

What's funny (and convenient for me). I actually have that same switch (or very similar) extra for something I was going to do to another car but never did. I can look at putting it into good use now. I don't want to add some cheap plastic toggle switch!

Let me know if it works, and whether cutting the battery power to the camera system causes any unforeseen issues. Thanks!

 

[Hippydrome]

Shew, it's been a couple of weeks since I did the install so now going off memory.

Recall the fuse taps have two holders for fuses. The one "not" in line with the outgoing wire is for original fuse box so I would put the fuse that you pulled out of #29 or #35 in that spot, even if those fuse blocks are not currently assigned (keeps it to factory specs).

The fuse opening that is inline with the outgoing wire is what will protect the camera. I believe I used some spare 10AMPS there which is kind of middle of the road for something like this. However, keep in mind that the blackvue hardwire kit has a fuse built into the wiring, so it is already protected to the camera's specifications. See the picture below for the wiring harness that comes with the dashcam. I connected their harness to the fuse tap wire with the built in fuse still in place (you can see a large black cylinder at the top left just below the plug that goes into the back of the camera).

No worries about getting shocked on a 12 Volt system. The biggest thing you need to worry about is not to accidently ground bare wires with no fuse protection. I will not tell you how I know that...

Hi,

Where did you attach the ground wire for the camera?

thanks

HD

 

[Panzer948]

Hi,

Where did you attach the ground wire for the camera?

thanks

HD

There are a couple of metal screws that screw into a metal frame that surround the fuse box. I used one just to the right of it where the dash panel is pulled out from. I recommend to double check they are properly grounded using a 12 volt light tester or multimeter, just in case. However, one of those should work for you as well as long as its a metal screw going in a metal frame (not metal to plastic).

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