DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector

[Hippydrome]

There are a couple of metal screws that screw into a metal frame that surround the fuse box. I used one just to the right of it where the dash panel is pulled out from. I recommend to double check they are properly grounded using a 12 volt light tester or multimeter, just in case. However, one of those should work for you as well as long as its a metal screw going in a metal frame (not metal to plastic).

Hi,
Cool, I did the same to the right and hooked into the metal screw into the metal base.

Thanks for the reply.

Cheers,

HD

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[tjnoffy]

What's funny (and convenient for me). I actually have that same switch (or very similar) extra for something I was going to do to another car but never did. I can look at putting it into good use now. I don't want to add some cheap plastic toggle switch!

Here's the answer I got from Blackvue about turning off Parking Mode at home:

"You can turn off your dashcam on parking mode once engine is off, there is a setting on the app called battery protection, Disable this feature camera will shut down 10 minutes after turning off the engine

Steps

Connect to the dashcam's direct wifi access on your phone settings > Go to app> Select Connect to camera >Under Camera Select 3 dot icon on the right side of your camera ID> Settings > Firmware Settings > System> Battery Protection > Off > Save"

I replied back that this seemed like a lot to do every time I returned home, and asked if cutting power to the camera would hurt it. Awaiting a reply. Also, suggested making this a feature controllable with the proximity sensor.

 

[Panzer948]

Here's the answer I got from Blackvue about turning off Parking Mode at home:

"You can turn off your dashcam on parking mode once engine is off, there is a setting on the app called battery protection, Disable this feature camera will shut down 10 minutes after turning off the engine

Steps

Connect to the dashcam's direct wifi access on your phone settings > Go to app> Select Connect to camera >Under Camera Select 3 dot icon on the right side of your camera ID> Settings > Firmware Settings > System> Battery Protection > Off > Save"

I replied back that this seemed like a lot to do every time I returned home, and asked if cutting power to the camera would hurt it. Awaiting a reply. Also, suggested making this a feature controllable with the proximity sensor.

I agree, that is to many steps for each time you get home. Maybe it is a competitor to Blackvue but I swore there was someone talking about how it knows not to use parking mode if connected to your home wifi, which would be obvious to the system. I know mine connects to my home wifi automatically when home. What is nice is that they could possibly update this in a firmware update. Should just be software setting. So if enough folks request it....

 

[Marauder]

Thought I would do a detailed write up of how a dual dashcam and radar detector install went over the past couple of days.

Outstanding job and a great write up!

 

[tjnoffy]

I agree, that is to many steps for each time you get home. Maybe it is a competitor to Blackvue but I swore there was someone talking about how it knows not to use parking mode if connected to your home wifi, which would be obvious to the system. I know mine connects to my home wifi automatically when home. What is nice is that they could possibly update this in a firmware update. Should just be software setting. So if enough folks request it....

Yes, but as I think you mentioned before, sensing the home wifi may not be optimal. May be times when I have to park outside the garage (Harley on the bike lift undergoing work, for instance) and want Parking Mode to stay active. This is why I suggested making it a function of the proximity sensor so you just have to wave your hand past the end to disable/enable it. If cutting the battery 12v feed isn't detrimental to the camera, may go the pushbutton route.

 

[tjnoffy]

• For those of us who plan to change to a hard top when available, and move the rear camera from the roll bar to the rear window, keep in mind that running the wiring back along the passenger side will make more sense so that it can eventually be run back to the hinge side of the tailgate. And be sure to keep the excess wiring bundled and tucked away to be ready for this. [Of course, I may just opt to leave it on the roll bar if the image looks as good as what you show here, and the camera isn't in my way driving or loading stuff in the back.

I take this back. I remember seeing where someone had run wiring for something to the tailgate/rear window on a hard top, and they did it on the passenger side and ran it along with some factory wiring. Said something about it being exposed, but so was the factor wiring.

But the wire harness/washer fluid prep kit on the soft tops is on the driver's side, so maybe the driver's side is correct. Hinge side of the tailgate is irrelevant as the rear camera would be mounted to the back window of a hard top, not the tailgate. But, still, be sure to use a cable long enough to be eventually routed to the back window if you're changing from a soft top to a hard top and plan to move the rear camera from the roll bar to the rear window. I just purchased the 10m (32.8') cable for mine. 6m (19.7') cable that came with mine would not be long enough. I measured from the front camera along the lines that the rear camera cable would run to the rear window, and estimated that I'd need about 25'.

Anyway, I'll search around for posts/pics of the wiring to the rear window to confirm all of this.

 

[tjnoffy]

I agree, that is to many steps for each time you get home. Maybe it is a competitor to Blackvue but I swore there was someone talking about how it knows not to use parking mode if connected to your home wifi, which would be obvious to the system. I know mine connects to my home wifi automatically when home. What is nice is that they could possibly update this in a firmware update. Should just be software setting. So if enough folks request it....

Latest reply from Blackvue...

" Since Parking Mode runs off of the direct battery connection, would a 12v on-off switch in the battery connection hurt the camera if power were cut? "
--> I think this will not hurt the camera, the other option of turning off the camera on parking mode is to unplug the power cable (DC-in)

Also regarding adding an off switch feature on the app using proximity sensor
Rest assured that this will be forwarded to our Planning and/or R&D team and include it in our considerations for future product/service development.

 

[Panzer948]

I take this back. I remember seeing where someone had run wiring for something to the tailgate/rear window on a hard top, and they did it on the passenger side and ran it along with some factory wiring. Said something about it being exposed, but so was the factor wiring.

But the wire harness/washer fluid prep kit on the soft tops is on the driver's side, so maybe the driver's side is correct. Hinge side of the tailgate is irrelevant as the rear camera would be mounted to the back window of a hard top, not the tailgate. But, still, be sure to use a cable long enough to be eventually routed to the back window if you're changing from a soft top to a hard top and plan to move the rear camera from the roll bar to the rear window. I just purchased the 10m (32.8') cable for mine. 6m (19.7') cable that came with mine would not be long enough. I measured from the front camera along the lines that the rear camera cable would run to the rear window, and estimated that I'd need about 25'.

Anyway, I'll search around for posts/pics of the wiring to the rear window to confirm all of this.

Very good points. It might be awhile before I get a hard top, but when I do I will likely move it to the back window and use some of your good advice!

I have a question for you or others on the roll bar mount. I have a recurring problem that the double sided tape fails after a couple of days and the rear camera hangs sideways by the wire. This of course sends a few false motion notifications and is overall a nuisance to put back. Have you guys had the same trouble?

I know part of the problem is it's hard to find a good flat spot on the bottom of the rollbar, and the fact it is not a smooth surface. I am wondering if simply cleaning the surface with rubbing alcohol (which I didn't do during install) and then replacing the double sided tape would solve it. If not, I may need to figure out a more semi-permanent solution.

 

[tjnoffy]

Very good points. It might be awhile before I get a hard top, but when I do I will likely move it to the back window and use some of your good advice!

I have a question for you or others on the roll bar mount. I have a recurring problem that the double sided tape fails after a couple of days and the rear camera hangs sideways by the wire. This of course sends a few false motion notifications and is overall a nuisance to put back. Have you guys had the same trouble?

I know part of the problem is it's hard to find a good flat spot on the bottom of the rollbar, and the fact it is not a smooth surface. I am wondering if simply cleaning the surface with rubbing alcohol (which I didn't do during install) and then replacing the double sided tape would solve it. If not, I may need to figure out a more semi-permanent solution.

Oh, that's good to know (but sorry for you) as I haven't mounted the rear camera yet. Would like to know this answer, too. Maybe two black zip ties, one around each side of the camera mount and the roll bar to help the 3M tape?

I did mount my cabin camera to the plastic panel above the rear view mirror to get a better view, so maybe I'll be facing the same issue there.

 

[tjnoffy]

I take this back. I remember seeing where someone had run wiring for something to the tailgate/rear window on a hard top, and they did it on the passenger side and ran it along with some factory wiring. Said something about it being exposed, but so was the factor wiring.

But the wire harness/washer fluid prep kit on the soft tops is on the driver's side, so maybe the driver's side is correct. Hinge side of the tailgate is irrelevant as the rear camera would be mounted to the back window of a hard top, not the tailgate. But, still, be sure to use a cable long enough to be eventually routed to the back window if you're changing from a soft top to a hard top and plan to move the rear camera from the roll bar to the rear window. I just purchased the 10m (32.8') cable for mine. 6m (19.7') cable that came with mine would not be long enough. I measured from the front camera along the lines that the rear camera cable would run to the rear window, and estimated that I'd need about 25'.

Anyway, I'll search around for posts/pics of the wiring to the rear window to confirm all of this.

So I spent a couple of hours yesterday running the wire for the rear camera and mounting it. Wiring was run down the driver's side of the Bronco to eventually meet up with the hard top prep kit connections when I get a hard top. I used the 10m cable that I ordered separately from Amazon as the 6m cable that came with the unit wouldn't have reached the rear window once I get the hard top.

Blackvue Dash Camera 10m (33ft) Coax Cable Front to Rear Connection for DR900S, DR750S, DR650S, DR650GW, DR550, DR430-2CH, DR470-2CH, DR530W, DR750LW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IWBR60...abc_YXZS5J74QWRH3DNGKT7P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

NOTE: I was able to get up the C pillar behind the seat belt and airbag, but be aware that the airbag actually lays partially back beyond the panel marked AIRBAG, and was partially exposed when I pulled the small panel behind it. Just wanted to offer that warning up front.

First I pulled the baseboards at the doors. Then I popped open the panel at the base of the C pillar loose at the back edge of the rear door. There I found a screw (circled) holding the C pillar panel above it (the panel where the seat belt is attached) in place. This was removed with a 7mm socket.

Then I removed the seatbelt at the top where it mounts through the same panel. This required a T50 Torx socket and, for me, a breaker bar to break loose.

This allowed me to pull this panel loose, but not off completely. The top of this panel fits up under the AIRBAG panel above it, and I wasn't going to mess with unbolting the AIRBAG panel. But it allowed me to loosen the "seatbelt" panel enough to get under it to fish the cable through.

Next was pulling down the small panel behind (aft of) the AIRBAG panel, and the panel on the rollbar, which was my mounting location. NOTE: This is where the airbag was visible.

I fed the wire from this point, down the rear of the C pillar. At this point while the wire was easy to feed, I pulled a length of wire through to measure if it could reach the front camera. I pulled it along the base boards (outside of the truck), up to the A pillar, and across the windshield to get an approximate length before actually running the wire through the tight spaces.

Then I began the actual install, running the wire forward under the base boards of the rear and front seats. A thin, bamboo garden plant support stick I had in the garage made a decent fish tape to get from the back door base board to the front, pulling it under the B pillar.

I pulled loose the kick panel at the front edge of the front door (panel that contains the 6" speaker), and removed the small panel above it and the hand grip (Torx Plus TP30 socket). Sorry, no pics. I ran the wire up toward the A pillar behind where the hand grip mounts to the dash, then forward between the dash and the A pillar to the windshield where the power connection to the main (front) camera was previously run, up the front edge of the A pillar, and across the top of the windshield.

I found that the wire for the rear camera is a smaller gauge than the power cable is, so it didn't want to stay tucked in between the windshield and the panels. The gap was too big and the wire kept falling out.

I wrapped 2"-4" of electrical tape around the wire to make it thick enough to stay put in the gaps. Some gaps were larger than others. Sometimes 2" worked, sometimes it needed 4".

I then went back to coil up and zip tied the excess wire at the starting point and put it in the rollbar panel for later use. I also ensured that the wire ran well back (aft) of the exposed airbag to prevent interference with the airbag. I mounted the camera and ran the end of the wire to it to connect it.

I zip tied the wire under the base boards to the existing factory zip ties (not enough room to fit it up under the factory zip ties), checked that everything was safely tucked in, and buttoned up all of the panels and the hand grip.

The rear camera is small, so very unobtrusive. May need to reinforce the mounting if the double-sided tape gives way, as @Panzer948 experienced. I will get a screen shot of the view from this camera and post it when I get a chance. Let me know if you have questions.

EDIT: Here is a screenshot of a video from the rear camera. Yes, objects on the side of the road are blurred as this is captured from a motion video. I think that, all considered, this would still be useful if someone hit or broke into the truck.

 

[Panzer948]

So I spent a couple of hours yesterday running the wire for the rear camera and mounting it. Wiring was run down the driver's side of the Bronco to eventually meet up with the hard top prep kit connections when I get a hard top. I used the 10m cable that I ordered separately from Amazon as the 6m cable that came with the unit wouldn't have reached the rear window once I get the hard top.

Blackvue Dash Camera 10m (33ft) Coax Cable Front to Rear Connection for DR900S, DR750S, DR650S, DR650GW, DR550, DR430-2CH, DR470-2CH, DR530W, DR750LW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IWBR60...abc_YXZS5J74QWRH3DNGKT7P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

NOTE: I was able to get up the C pillar behind the seat belt and airbag, but be aware that the airbag actually lays partially back beyond the panel marker AIRBAG, and was partially exposed when I pulled the small panel behind it. Just wanted to offer that warning up front.

First I pulled the floorboards at the doors. Then I popped open the panel at the base of the C pillar loose at the back edge of the rear door. There I found a screw (circled) holding the C pillar panel above it (the panel where the seat belt is attached) in place. This was removed with a 7mm socket.

Then I removed the seatbelt at the top where it mounts through the same panel. This required a T50 Torx socket and, for me, a breaker bar to break loose.

This allowed me to pull this panel loose, but not off completely. The top of this panel fits up under the AIRBAG panel above it, and I wasn't going to mess with unbolting the AIRBAG panel. But it allowed me to loosen the "seatbelt" panel enough to get user it to fish the cable through.

Next was pulling down the small panel behind (aft of) the AIRBAG panel, and the panel on the rollbar, which was my mounting location. NOTE: This is where the airbag was visible.

I fed the wire from this point, down the rear of the C pillar. At this point while the wire was easy to feed, I pulled a length of wire through to measure if it could reach the front camera. I pulled it along the base boards (outside of the truck), up to the A pillar, and across the windshield to get an approximate length before actually running the wire through the tight spaces.

Then I began the actual install, running the wire forward under the base boards of the rear and front seats. A thin, bamboo garden plant support stick I had in the garage made a decent fish tape to get from the back door base board to the front, pulling it under the B pillar.

I pulled loose the kick panel at the front edge of the front door (panel that contains the 6" speaker), and removed the small panel above it and the hand grip (Torx Plus TP30 socket). Sorry, no pics. I ran the wire up toward the A pillar behind where the hand grip mounts to the dash, then forward between the dash and the a pillar to the windshield where the power connection to the main (front) camera was previously run, up the front edge of the A pillar, and across the top of the windshield.

I found that the wire for the rear camera is a smaller gauge than the power cable is, so it didn't want to stay tucked in between the windshield and the panels. The gap was too big and the wire kept falling out.

I wrapped 2"-4" of electrical tape around the wire to make it thick enough to stay put in the gaps. Some gaps were larger than others. Sometimes 2" worked, sometimes it needed 4".

I then went back to coil up and zip tie the excess wire at the starting point and put it in the rollbar panel for later use. I also ensured that the wire ran well back (aft) of the exposed airbag to prevent interference with the airbag. I mounted the camera and ran the end of the wire to it to connect it.

I zip tied the wire under the base boards to the existing factory zip ties (not enough room to fit it up under the factory zip ties), checked that everything was safely tucked in, and buttoned up all of the panels and the hand grip.

The rear camera is small, so very unobtrusive. May need to reinforce the mounting if the double-sided tape gives way, as @Panzer948 experienced. I will get a screen shot of the view from this camera and post it when I get a chance. Let me know if you have questions.

Very descriptive info that will be useful for those of us that will eventually mount to a hard top. The route you went to the hardtop hardwire kit is also a better route to avoid the airbag above C pillar.

Yes I too had trouble with the smaller diameter wires staying put between windshield and headliner, which is usually the opposite problem... I did something similar to keep them from sliding back out, although I am worried they may not stay... Time will tell! Great contribution.

 

[tjnoffy]

Very descriptive info that will be useful for those of us that will eventually mount to a hard top. The route you went to the hardtop hardwire kit is also a better route to avoid the airbag above C pillar.

Yes I too had trouble with the smaller diameter wires staying put between windshield and headliner, which is usually the opposite problem... I did something similar to keep them from sliding back out, although I am worried they may not stay... Time will tell! Great contribution.

I've added a screenshot of video from the new rear camera to my post, above.

One thing I would do different is to stash the excess cable down lower below the C pillar rather than up in the rollbar. Down below is where the cable will eventually be routed back to the rear window. But it's just a minor thing.

 

[Panzer948]

I've added a screenshot of video from the new rear camera to my post, above.

One thing I would do different is to stash the excess cable down lower below the C pillar rather than up in the rollbar. Down below is where the cable will eventually be routed back to the rear window. But it's just a minor thing.

Nice shot, you can tell these cameras put out some good quality.

 

[Arealhuman]

So I don't see a concise answer and maybe I am missing it, when installing this camera if I use the wire sent to me with the ACC and BATT hookups, will this eventually drain my battery if the car is off? Or is it built in that? I don't have to worry about that. They offer some couple of hundred dollar thing that prevents drainage but I'm not sure if it's necessary.

I don't care about recording while my car is parked and off so it would be nice to have it auto shut off and not go into parking mode ever and not drain the battery.

 

[Panzer948]

So I don't see a concise answer and maybe I am missing it, when installing this camera if I use the wire sent to me with the ACC and BATT hookups, will this eventually drain my battery if the car is off? Or is it built in that? I don't have to worry about that. They offer some couple of hundred dollar thing that prevents drainage but I'm not sure if it's necessary.

I don't care about recording while my car is parked and off so it would be nice to have it auto shut off and not go into parking mode ever and not drain the battery.

Right, it isn't necessary for that other part. That is mostly for models that don't have auto shut off. This model (900 series) will auto shut off after your battery voltage drops below a certain amount (that you select in the settings). I have mine around 12. It even sends you a notice that it is about to shut off due to voltage getting low.

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