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Panzer948

Panzer948

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I went with the Blackvue 750XLTE Plus. Installation went well but I have come across 2 problems.
1. The Blackvue app is not good. Its not intuitive but more importantly it does not reliably connect to my phone. Lasted Firmware that I installed yesterday seems to help though.
2. SIM card does not seem to work with AT&T. I was on the phone with Blackvue and then with At&T. I even spent hours at the AT&T store trying 5G and 4G cards. We could not get this to work.

If anyone has a solution or has AT&T and it works for them, please let me know. I may have to get service with T-Mobile or use a hot spot. Very frustrating.
I feel your pain. I have to admit, the first couple of days my connections were not setup properly as I named the built in wifi the incorrect name and didn't understand how the app connected to the camera directly versus the wifi/sim card. I had to call Blackvue Tech support a couple of times and they helped me set it up properly, while also explaining that the "Connect to Camera" mode in my App was just for close proximity (basically in the car) to connect your phone to the dashcam wirelessly (instead of having to pull the memory card out and using it in your computer); whereas "Connect to Cloud" is for remote connections further away, etc. Once I figured that out, it has worked fairly well.

Concerning AT&T, I can't help there as I used T Mobile, which actually worked fairly well. But the people at the T Mobile store were clueless with the Blackvue device. I basically told them to treat it like they would someone wanting a sim card for a tablet that doesn't have cellular capability.
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I had this working for a day and then noticed i couldnā€™t hear it anymore. Should I be able to detect voltage from the ground wire (black) when the vehicle is on? Because I canā€™t.
No, you need to connect your testers positive lead to a positive wire (the + wire you want to test) and your negative lead to that ground wire or another ground such as the metal chassis. But it would be best to test it with your black/ground wire just to ensure that circuit is indeed "grounded". But connecting only to the ground wire will show 0 voltage.

Not sure what you mean about not hearing it anymore. That sounds like something in the settings if you can still see video clips.
 

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Canā€™t hear it because thereā€™s no power running to it anymore šŸ˜‚
did you maybe flip the "add a fuse" to face the other direction than in the picture? I think I tried that and the camera didn't get power till I flipped it to match the pictures
 

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Has anyone tried to setup a 4 channel setup? I was thinking of getting 2x of the DR900X-2CH Plus and have the main ones in front and back and the rear cameras as left and right channels. And the LTE module for live viewing. It would be something like a "Tesla Cam" setup. I would have to subscribe to the upgrade services from Blackvue since its more than 1 camera. There's a few YouTube videos on similar setups. Just curious if anyone has thoughts or done this yet?
 
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Has anyone tried to setup a 4 channel setup? I was thinking of getting 2x of the DR900X-2CH Plus and have the main ones in front and back and the rear cameras as left and right channels. And the LTE module for live viewing. It would be something like a "Tesla Cam" setup. I would have to subscribe to the upgrade services from Blackvue since its more than 1 camera. There's a few YouTube videos on similar setups. Just curious if anyone has thoughts or done this yet?
I thought about doing this too but figured I would just do the front and back for now and decide that down the road but I agree with your concept and its likely the only way. Still waiting to see how spring/summer goes with lots of top down driving. That's the main reason I got the dash cams, security with no top!
 

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Sooo helpful. Wis
Thought I would do a detailed write up of how a dual dashcam and radar detector install went over the past couple of days. I actually responded with some thoughts on similar posts, but thought to include my own experience with a few pics I took. I assume many are like me and haven't seen many vids or even pics of some of the dash panels being removed, so maybe this will help (if not too long...).

First of all I need to describe what I am installing since it will impact what panels one will need to tear into (J/K). For the dashcam, I opted for a BlackVue DR900X-2CH Plus with the CM100LTE module. The camera is 4K front/1080 Rear and was recently re-released with better image quality. However, the biggest factor in getting this model is the CM100LTE module that works with this unit. TheCM100LTE takes a SIM card, similar to what you would buy for a tablet data plan only. I went with TMobile since I already have an account with them for our phones and their plan is better than the competitor (AT&T). Basically free data for $10/month. With this setup, not only do I have full time driving coverage, front and rear, but also 24 hour parking mode surveillance where it monitors impacts and even movement and will send you real time alerts with the option to view in real time, similar to the Nest/Ring camera setups for homes. Might be a little overkill but I have owned a soft-top Jeep for years and have had plenty of things stolen from it. With this setup, not only will I likely record who did it, but possibly catch them before to late.

BlackVue DR900X-2CH Plus.JPG
Blackvue CM100LTE Connectivity Module.JPG


As I posted in another thread, I am not adding a separate battery bank since this model has voltage protection built in. This means that it monitors the battery voltage during parking mode and will cut off if the car voltage drops below an assigned number. I think most recommend 11.8 volts. I have been using a similar system in another car and have never had an issue as most will run for a day or more before dropping to that level. You can also have it turn off after a set amount of time (I selected off at 11.9 volts or 48 hours, whichever is first). A battery bank is a good idea if your leaving your Bronco alone for several days, but I will have it back in a garage each night and should not be unattended for more than a day.

I am mounting a Valentine 1 Gen 2 Radar Detector, which I already own for another car. I plan to swap them between both vehicles so wanted a more permanent mount that is still easy to disconnect. I opted for a "BlendMount" which attaches to your mirror. Radar Detector Power will be thru a mirror tap while the dash cam will require both a 12 volt constant source (for parking mode) and Acc on wire for regular driving mode (allows dashcam to also know what mode to operate in). The CME100 Module is to be installed to the top corner of the windshield and is powered by the dash cam. Not a big fan of it going there but that is what they recommend.

Mirrortap stuff first. For the dimming powered mirror, you can tap into both the ACC positive on (with ignition) and ground wire using one of the following: https://www.amazon.com/Upgraded-Det...ics&sprefix=mirror+tap,electronics,201&sr=1-9
1637121733197.png


This comes with 3 different sizes, with the other end being a RJ11 plug that connects to most radar detectors. The smaller of the three works best. You now have two spares for your other car (or future car ;) The electrical connector plug in back of the mirror is easily pulled loose by pushing on the bottom tab and pulling toward the windshield. From there you should be able to push the thinner mirror tap leads, with + going to the white wire hole and the ground going to the black/blue stripe wire hole (see close up below). I would use a 12 volt test gauge to be sure since it could vary by model.

Finally, the pic on far right is the mount itself, which could vary by radar detector. Very nice professional mount that isn't going anywhere when hitting the trails (unlike your standard suction cup mount). They also make an accessory to mount the dash cam but I decided to mount it closer to top. https://blendmount.com/aluminum-rad...tine-one-gen1-gen2-standard-series-bv1-2001r/


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Next up is running all the wiring connections to the front dash cam. To get 12 volts full time and 12 volts only with ignition, I did like a few others and tapped into the fuse box below the steering wheel where you will find a column of Micro2 fuses on the left. You can pick-up a very affordable set from Amazon for around $7. I used the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZV4LY54/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I
1637122909651.png


I selected Fuse #29 for Full time power and Fuse #35 for ignition only. According to the manual, they are both spares, so even better. Below is a pic after I tapped into #29. #35 is near the bottom on the same left row. I added a bullet type connector for the connecting green wire using heat shrink (did this for all connections so will not repeat). Now time to run both wires to the top windshield, which I found easier than I thought.

1637123052290.png



I knew the A Pillar would be a breeze as you can easily push it back between the glass and plastic with very little prying. However, I wanted to get it up to the A pillar site unseen. I decided to remove the Bronco Grab handle to get access to the area just above the fuse box (see pic below).

1637123845415.png


From there, it was easy to push a wire up through one of the openings to the bottom edge of the A pillar along the dash and then toward the windshield. A plastic dash pry tool comes in handy here.

1637123911939.png


From there it was up the backside of the A-pillar (closest to windshield) to the top of the windshield where it meets the plastic headliner. Believe it or not, this step was rather aggravating. The wires were to lose along most of the top, but near the sun visor mount, it was to tight which means they kept falling down. Pic below shows a tab you pull down on the sun visor holder. Underneath that is a torx screw that easily comes out. After I removed that, the wires you see below can be tucked in. Upon tightening it, they stay in place and are no longer visible.

1637124017210.png


I actually ran on extra wire during this process in case the mirror tap idea for the radar detector didn't work out, thus I ended up with access wires to hide. The black box right of the mirror (holding the vehicles camera) makes a convenient place to tuck all these extra wires and was a final destination spot before I mounted the dashcam. You have to tug on it to pop it lose. You will also need to tuck the wires coming from the headline edge to around the edge of the upper console. This is tighter so that plastic pry tool comes in handy there.

The CME100 Module that now holds the new data sim card was mounted on the opposite side of the windshield (top right corner) so it can bug my passenger. It's wire travels back to the dash cam, thus I tucked it's wire the same way I did the power wires on the driver side. Any access wire is actually stored in the passenger side A-Pillar.

1637124322352.png


Now for the long wire that must go from the dash cam to the rear camera. I decided to mount the rear camera on the roll bar. What is nice about this model is that I can easily rotate the rear camera to face the rear window or the front passenger area. I may do the latter if parking around crowds with the top down. Anyway, this was actually my biggest unknown as I have not seen many pics or discussions on how others have gotten wires back there. For the most part it went well with the rear camera wire following the headliner and A Pillar path already described for the power wires. From there, I basically pulled back the door trim panel closest to the fuse box to push the wire thru to the floor trim panel (which is easily removed with no tools). The 1st pic below shows this door frame trim panel (apologize if not the proper name) only partially pulled back which allowed me to easily fish the wire down toward the center floor trim piece.

1637125573563.png
1637125971752.png


Similar to the front floor trim piece, the back seat floor trim piece is easily removed. I was able to fish the wire to the back without removing the middle B-Pillar trim panels (area directly left and beneath front seat) by going along the inner edge and pushing wire beneath the trim. The plastic trim between the fender and rear seat is also easily pulled back to tuck the wire. To go vertical up the next pillar toward the roll bar, you simply pull back the rubber weather stripping, as shown below, and push the wires out of site. Be sure and place weather strip back in origional place.

1637126178404.png
1637126205598.png
1637126598895.png


Now we reach the spot I am least happy with. There is an airbag between this vertical pillar and the rollbar. That piece is not easily removed, and for good reason since you would not want a wire interfeeing with deployment. Thus, this is the only place where the wire ends up being visible, although it fits nicely in between the two sections before easily entering the bottom plastic panel that covers the roll bar. I may still look for a different solution in the area when I have more time since it is exposed and to be honest, I would rather not have it so close to the airbag area.

1637126698503.png


There is a panel behind the rollbar (not shown in pics) that is very loose; thus you can easily get a wire in there and run it along the back side of the plastic trim to the rollbar. I opted to place my rear camera in that middle channel in the back of the roll bar so the wire would mostly be hidden to passengers.

Below are final pics after install. This was taken at night so harder to see details. Dashcam in upper left windshield, Radar Detector on mount connected to mirror, and finally SIM Card Module with data plan at far right corner.

1637127086890.png


Here is the app doing its thing while at work.... all in real time.

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1637127766351.png
So very helpful! Wish I found this before I spent a few hours figuring stuff out! šŸ¤£šŸ¤¦šŸ¼ā€ā™€ļø
 

JGayler911

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Finally had the chance to install the Dashcam. Thought I would drop some pics to help others out. I did the best I could with the wiring to the back window. It definitely helps to have a fish rod. The cam wire is easily removed from the rear roof if I want to go topless. I used the Blendmount for the front cam but took the middle link out to get it higher.

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super helpful pics and writeup!! than you for sharing!

do you have a plan for when you take the top off?
 

Stonetree

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super helpful pics and writeup!! than you for sharing!

do you have a plan for when you take the top off?
I'm glad it helped. The wire just unplugs from the rear cam and easily slides out of the clips and weather stripping around the back window. I figured I'd just roll up the wire and use a Velcro wire tie to attach it to the bottom of the roll bar or something while the top is off. I tried to keep that in mind when running the wires.
 

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Has anyone installed a rear facing camera on a soft top? I tried installing it using the 3M tape that came with the camera to the plastic cover under the roll bar but the camera kept falling off. I ended up installing it on top of the roll bar and that works great except all I see is the cargo area, the spare tire and a bit of the road. Iā€™d really like to find a way to affix it to the underside of the roll bar on the plastic piece.
Ford Bronco DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector B03B88EC-1639-4094-BFEB-A4F2784B647B
 
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Has anyone installed a rear facing camera on a soft top? I tried installing it using the 3M tape that came with the camera to the plastic cover under the roll bar but the camera kept falling off. I ended up installing it on top of the roll bar and that works great except all I see is the cargo area, the spare tire and a bit of the road. Iā€™d really like to find a way to affix it to the underside of the roll bar on the plastic piece.
B03B88EC-1639-4094-BFEB-A4F2784B647B.jpeg
Yes, I have the same problem. The double sided tape that came with it wouldn't last a day or two before falling off. So I bought the best they have which still would only last about a week or so before falling off. For now, I have opted to do the same and put it on top attached to the metal but the angle is less than desirable.

I am thinking of another solution, including possibly using epoxy glue to mount a small smooth gray colored plastic or metal surface to the plastic roll bar. This should work well with double sided tape and it wouldn't look as noticable if I took the camera out (such as if I sold the car). I don't want to glue the camera directly though as that is asking for trouble.

Another idea is similar to above but use small screws to attach a small smooth piece of plastic/metal to the plastic roll bar. Of course then you would be left with some small holes when you removed it, which probably wouldn't be that noticeable... One could just screw the camera mount directly the plastic roll bar cover too, depending on the mount. Defiantly open to ideas as well.
 

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Yes, I have the same problem. The double sided tape that came with it wouldn't last a day or two before falling off. So I bought the best they have which still would only last about a week or so before falling off. For now, I have opted to do the same and put it on top attached to the metal but the angle is less than desirable.

I am thinking of another solution, including possibly using epoxy glue to mount a small smooth gray colored plastic or metal surface to the plastic roll bar. This should work well with double sided tape and it wouldn't look as noticable if I took the camera out (such as if I sold the car). I don't want to glue the camera directly though as that is asking for trouble.

Another idea is similar to above but use small screws to attach a small smooth piece of plastic/metal to the plastic roll bar. Of course then you would be left with some small holes when you removed it, which probably wouldn't be that noticeable... One could just screw the camera mount directly the plastic roll bar cover too, depending on the mount. Defiantly open to ideas as well.
Great suggestions! I actually went with a small piece of metal, itā€™s one of those you stick on the back of a phone so that it can stick to a magnetic car phone mount.
Ford Bronco DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector B54852D8-4DDC-4B23-AA62-34418C71DDEF

I then epoxied it to the plastic and it blended pretty nicely. I attached the rear camera and it seems to hold up well. I have a bit of cleanup to do, but overall way better camera angle, and itā€™s pretty sturdy. Time will tell, but I feel pretty confident itā€™ll hold up.
Ford Bronco DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector 24817235-BFA0-4C51-A126-32554ECA64A4
Ford Bronco DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector 92F1EFC7-6CA5-4B5C-AD07-8AA2CDDF4D7E
 

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Yes, I have the same problem. The double sided tape that came with it wouldn't last a day or two before falling off. So I bought the best they have which still would only last about a week or so before falling off. For now, I have opted to do the same and put it on top attached to the metal but the angle is less than desirable.

I am thinking of another solution, including possibly using epoxy glue to mount a small smooth gray colored plastic or metal surface to the plastic roll bar. This should work well with double sided tape and it wouldn't look as noticable if I took the camera out (such as if I sold the car). I don't want to glue the camera directly though as that is asking for trouble.

Another idea is similar to above but use small screws to attach a small smooth piece of plastic/metal to the plastic roll bar. Of course then you would be left with some small holes when you removed it, which probably wouldn't be that noticeable... One could just screw the camera mount directly the plastic roll bar cover too, depending on the mount. Defiantly open to ideas as well.
Do you still like the Blackvue 900? I had the Nextbase 522 installed last week in our Bronco and it is horrible. The rear camera works half the time, the app is hard to connect to, the display constantly freezes so we carry a nail with us so we can reset it and parking mode doesnā€™t work at all. Iā€™m pissed about it to say the least since we paid $340 to have it installed. I was looking at Blackvue or Vantrue. We need one that has front and rear with parking mode.
 
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This turned out to be a
Great suggestions! I actually went with a small piece of metal, itā€™s one of those you stick on the back of a phone so that it can stick to a magnetic car phone mount.
Ford Bronco DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector 92F1EFC7-6CA5-4B5C-AD07-8AA2CDDF4D7E

I then epoxied it to the plastic and it blended pretty nicely. I attached the rear camera and it seems to hold up well. I have a bit of cleanup to do, but overall way better camera angle, and itā€™s pretty sturdy. Time will tell, but I feel pretty confident itā€™ll hold up.
Ford Bronco DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector 92F1EFC7-6CA5-4B5C-AD07-8AA2CDDF4D7E
Ford Bronco DIY Install for Blackvue 900 Dashcam with Real-Time Updates and Radar Detector 92F1EFC7-6CA5-4B5C-AD07-8AA2CDDF4D7E
This turned out to be a great option. Thanks for sharing as I may go run out and do the same thing. I think I have an extra metal insert for an old phone as well!
 
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Do you still like the Blackvue 900? I had the Nextbase 522 installed last week in our Bronco and it is horrible. The rear camera works half the time, the app is hard to connect to, the display constantly freezes so we carry a nail with us so we can reset it and parking mode doesnā€™t work at all. Iā€™m pissed about it to say the least since we paid $340 to have it installed. I was looking at Blackvue or Vantrue. We need one that has front and rear with parking mode.
Yes, i do. I have to say it isn't perfect though as I sometimes can't connect to it remotely. Maybe others have experienced that too but the problems you list with the Nextbase sound much worse. I haven't experienced any freezes and the front and rear always work as long as you can connect. Parking mode does work pretty well and it gives me notifications for even movement. Almost to good but that is how I have it setup since you can control sensitivity in the software.

I will be honest, I have never heard of Nextbase and I think Vantrue is on the lower end side. I do know that Blackvue and Thinkware are about as good as it gets with consumer grade dash cams so I would personally stick with them. They have a big history of producing highly reviewed products. BTW, I think the Ford dashcam accessory is actually a Thinkware product but not the top of the line model currently offered. I almost went with Thinkware since I already have owned one for my other vehicle for the past 6 years and it still works as good as it did on Day 1. But I liked the remote accessibility features of Blackvue better. Like I said, it's not perfect but that is about the hardest part to get right.
 

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Yes, i do. I have to say it isn't perfect though as I sometimes can't connect to it remotely. Maybe others have experienced that too but the problems you list with the Nextbase sound much worse. I haven't experienced any freezes and the front and rear always work as long as you can connect. Parking mode does work pretty well and it gives me notifications for even movement. Almost to good but that is how I have it setup since you can control sensitivity in the software.

I will be honest, I have never heard of Nextbase and I think Vantrue is on the lower end side. I do know that Blackvue and Thinkware are about as good as it gets with consumer grade dash cams so I would personally stick with them. They have a big history of producing highly reviewed products. BTW, I think the Ford dashcam accessory is actually a Thinkware product but not the top of the line model currently offered. I almost went with Thinkware since I already have owned one for my other vehicle for the past 6 years and it still works as good as it did on Day 1. But I liked the remote accessibility features of Blackvue better. Like I said, it's not perfect but that is about the hardest part to get right.
I appreciate the feedback. It seems no matter what cameras I look at there will always be some bad reviews. I just want something reliable and with an app would be ideal. We want parking mode since my wife works near a high school and some of the kids walk through where she parks and the top is down most of the time. Iā€™ll check out Thinkware but Blackvue is at the top of the list.
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