The standard end caps don't have the fog light mounting points along the lower edge.
Frankly speaking, I didn't need the fog lights but I wanted to install them because I enjoy challenging myself.
I understand that and for me I also did not like the open hole in the steel modular bumper, it just looked unfinished.
Ah!The standard end caps don't have the fog light mounting points along the lower edge.
Fuse? Doh I am going to jump if that is what it is, assuming you mean it needs one? I assumed there would be one. Where is said fuse located?
Hmm, I didn't find it on the fuse diagram
And the Raptor set does have covers for the rear? Hmmm… that may sway me to go the OEM route.
They don't need covers. The lights are sealed/waterproof. The light housings are finned aluminum to dissipate heat. The wriring is sealed. None of the aftermarket LED fog lights have covers. Covering the Mabett or other aftermarket fog lights would only be cosmetic and possibly counterproductive to heat dissipation.
Did you happen to record the pin out to the 4 pins?So the lights are in and working:
I went from plastic bumper to Raptor bumper and lights. The outside lights are connected to the original H11 foglight connector on the plastic bumper wiring harness and the inside ones are connected to uplifter 1. This is exactly how they are connected on the Raptor.
If I had to do this again, I might have spent the $70 and get the modular bumper wiring harness, but only because the fog light connectors are in a better place, but honestly it wasn't that bad.
On the back of each side of lights was a pigtail that brought the two lights, inner and outer to one MX150, 4 pin connector. ( If you don't have this pigtail, then each Rigid light will have an MX150, 2 pin connector). I bought these connectors to connect to the light pigtails:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/216286-1043?qs=DPoM0jnrROUtPsdTNfbb0A==&countryCode=US¤cyCode=USD
They are more expensive than just buying the connectors, but this way I didn't have to crimp pins which I have a habit of doing poorly.
For the other end of my pigtail, I bought cheap un-keyed H11 connectors on Amazon (I bought 3 of these):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088W9P82Y
Here is my ugly pigtail. I left a ton of extra wire wrapped up in electrical tape, just in case, and I did need it for the passenger side.
The MX150 4 pin is on the bottom and the 2 H11 are at the top. The H11 connector without the yellow is the male connector with the pins. It connects to the plastic bumper factory fog light connector. The other one, I connected to the inner fog lights. I used a female connector keep me from getting confused.
I ran a wire from the passenger side to the drivers side to carry the connection to the inner lights. I just used 16 gauge wire with a male M11 connector on each side, then on the drivers side I added a a second connector, forming a Y so that I could then have a disconnect point if I needed to take the bumper off.
This is the wire that I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017SDDY6I
Here is my pigtail connecting to back of the Raptor lights:
This is on the passenger side. I had to cut out the extra slack in the pigtail and use it because I needed to be able to go around the back metal brace on the modular bumper. This is due to where the plastic bumper fog light connector comes out. Maybe there is a better way, but I didn't see it. If I had the modular bumper harness, the fog light connectors would be better positioned. I believe that the modular bumper harness uses 2 pin MX150 connectors, which are much nicer than the H11s. The down side to this was that on the passenger side the factory H11 fog light connector was now behind a bracket and if I needed to get to it, it would mean pulling the bumper. The driver's side did not need the extra slack since everything is meant to come out on that side. I will likely take off the pigtail on the driver's side and clean it up, but it is not a priority.
I also tried to leave as much slack on the drivers side factory wiring harness as I could, because I read that people were having trouble connecting back up to the vehicle on the drivers fender because the plastic bumper wiring harness was too short. I didn't have that issue, but I compensated for that.
For the uplifter connection, I ran a wire from the top of the fender down to the bumper. I encased the wire in this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW5H57B
I added a connector to the bumper end that matched the H11 that I left in the Y for the inner lights and then ran the wire behind a brace and to the area in the back drivers corner where the uplifter wires terminate. I connected to the wire for uplifter 1 and grounded the negative cable to a screw near there.
You will need a bunch of crimp on connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LRB9P4V
A good crimping tool is your friend.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069TRKJ0
So the only thing that went wrong, is that I guessed incorrectly on the polarity of the factory fog light connector. Not a big deal, since I had un-keyed H11 connectors and I could just unplug them and turn them around and plug them back in. This worked great on the driver's side, but since I left the passenger side connector behind a bracket in the bumper, I had to pull the bumper to make the swap. That was annoying. I don't have a. picture of the correct orientation. Sorry.
Hope this helps. Feel free to ask any question.
Oh and the lights look awesome.
Diego
Would you mind leeting me know what the (2) plastic extension pieces that hang down below the bumper attach to? I purchased the Raptor bumper end caps and I was hoping that they mounted to those, but they do not. Thank you!So the lights are in and working:
I went from plastic bumper to Raptor bumper and lights. The outside lights are connected to the original H11 foglight connector on the plastic bumper wiring harness and the inside ones are connected to uplifter 1. This is exactly how they are connected on the Raptor.
If I had to do this again, I might have spent the $70 and get the modular bumper wiring harness, but only because the fog light connectors are in a better place, but honestly it wasn't that bad.
On the back of each side of lights was a pigtail that brought the two lights, inner and outer to one MX150, 4 pin connector. ( If you don't have this pigtail, then each Rigid light will have an MX150, 2 pin connector). I bought these connectors to connect to the light pigtails:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/216286-1043?qs=DPoM0jnrROUtPsdTNfbb0A==&countryCode=US¤cyCode=USD
They are more expensive than just buying the connectors, but this way I didn't have to crimp pins which I have a habit of doing poorly.
For the other end of my pigtail, I bought cheap un-keyed H11 connectors on Amazon (I bought 3 of these):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088W9P82Y
Here is my ugly pigtail. I left a ton of extra wire wrapped up in electrical tape, just in case, and I did need it for the passenger side.
The MX150 4 pin is on the bottom and the 2 H11 are at the top. The H11 connector without the yellow is the male connector with the pins. It connects to the plastic bumper factory fog light connector. The other one, I connected to the inner fog lights. I used a female connector keep me from getting confused.
I ran a wire from the passenger side to the drivers side to carry the connection to the inner lights. I just used 16 gauge wire with a male M11 connector on each side, then on the drivers side I added a a second connector, forming a Y so that I could then have a disconnect point if I needed to take the bumper off.
This is the wire that I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017SDDY6I
Here is my pigtail connecting to back of the Raptor lights:
This is on the passenger side. I had to cut out the extra slack in the pigtail and use it because I needed to be able to go around the back metal brace on the modular bumper. This is due to where the plastic bumper fog light connector comes out. Maybe there is a better way, but I didn't see it. If I had the modular bumper harness, the fog light connectors would be better positioned. I believe that the modular bumper harness uses 2 pin MX150 connectors, which are much nicer than the H11s. The down side to this was that on the passenger side the factory H11 fog light connector was now behind a bracket and if I needed to get to it, it would mean pulling the bumper. The driver's side did not need the extra slack since everything is meant to come out on that side. I will likely take off the pigtail on the driver's side and clean it up, but it is not a priority.
I also tried to leave as much slack on the drivers side factory wiring harness as I could, because I read that people were having trouble connecting back up to the vehicle on the drivers fender because the plastic bumper wiring harness was too short. I didn't have that issue, but I compensated for that.
For the uplifter connection, I ran a wire from the top of the fender down to the bumper. I encased the wire in this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FW5H57B
I added a connector to the bumper end that matched the H11 that I left in the Y for the inner lights and then ran the wire behind a brace and to the area in the back drivers corner where the uplifter wires terminate. I connected to the wire for uplifter 1 and grounded the negative cable to a screw near there.
You will need a bunch of crimp on connectors.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LRB9P4V
A good crimping tool is your friend.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069TRKJ0
So the only thing that went wrong, is that I guessed incorrectly on the polarity of the factory fog light connector. Not a big deal, since I had un-keyed H11 connectors and I could just unplug them and turn them around and plug them back in. This worked great on the driver's side, but since I left the passenger side connector behind a bracket in the bumper, I had to pull the bumper to make the swap. That was annoying. I don't have a. picture of the correct orientation. Sorry.
Hope this helps. Feel free to ask any question.
Oh and the lights look awesome.
Diego
