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Don't underestimate the 27mm rear strut bottom nut...

kodiakisland

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It was no problem for an old man and a 3 foot breaker bar. It's farmer tight.
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Evolkidbell

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Why the fuck would that be torqued to 350ft/lbs??
Jeezus...
Likely to get clamping force. The larger the thread, the higher the torque needed to attain the same force. FWIW, I retorqued mine to 250 ft-lb. Hasn't moved in a few weeks. Thought about borrowing a wrench from work as we have a few that go over 1000 but then I'd need to find a 3/4" drive socket...

350 pound feet of torque. FWIW, Jesus nut, that holds the rotor blades on a Cobra or Huey helicopter is 710 pound feet.
Ahhh, the "Jesus Nut".
3 or 4 mechanical locks on that nut, but if it comes off...you're going to go meet Jesus.
 

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da_jokker

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Looking to get the M18 myself..waiting for a black friday sale :)

What gets me is the 3/8 drive cost more than the 1/2 but I want the 3/8.
 

akturbo

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I planned ahead, the rear was the easy part of the project.

Ford Bronco Don't underestimate the 27mm rear strut bottom nut... 34633441-8DFC-425D-A19C-74A22F59D589
 

El Diablo

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Glad I read through this thread before installing my DV8 rear shock skids. One of the reviews suggested lifting the body with a jack to release some tension from the shock to the bottom mount. Not sure if this holds any merit. Regardless I will be prepared with a breaker bar and a good impact driver. Torquing it back to 325-350 ft-lb is another story.
 
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Snacktime

Snacktime

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Glad I read through this thread before installing my DV8 rear shock skids. One of the reviews suggested lifting the body with a jack to release some tension from the shock to the bottom mount. Not sure if this holds any merit. Regardless I will be prepared with a breaker bar and a good impact driver. Torquing it back to 325-350 ft-lb is another story.
Triple tap the impact!
 
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JohnnyBronco

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Gotta ask, are y'all trying to remove the bolt from the head end or simply removing the nut first. If the bolt is in contact with compressed rubber shock mount you would have trouble even with the nut removed. Orif through a metal bushing that can also cause problems. Or is the nut staked to a slot in the bolt as are axle shafts?

I don't plan on removing that particular bolt myself but have in the past on the LR3 I had and in fact jacking up vehicle and relieving pressure on the bolt always helped.

I have never completely broken a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4' pipe but 1/2" with 3 all the time.
 

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dgorsett

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Gotta ask, are y'all trying to remove the bolt from the head end or simply removing the nut first. If the bolt is in contact with compressed rubber shock mount you would have trouble even with the nut removed. Orif through a metal bushing that can also cause problems. Or is the nut staked to a slot in the bolt as are axle shafts?

I don't plan on removing that particular bolt myself but have in the past on the LR3 I had and in fact jacking up vehicle and relieving pressure on the bolt always helped.

I have never completely broken a 3/4" breaker bar with a 4' pipe but 1/2" with 3 all the time.
Nut is staked. I used a 3/4 breaker with a 1 1/16 socket and 4 foot cheater with the weight off of it. Told my son to use the same amount of oomph to retorque
 

Bronkers

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Pretty sure mine came from Ice Mountain (has salt/grit on the underside), 4ft cheater pipe had no effect. I am a pretty big guy too... Currently soaking with PB Blaster.

Only takes a couple of double taps with an impact to go fully overboard.
AeroKroil ftw
 

Tricky Dick

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Glad I read through this thread before installing my DV8 rear shock skids. One of the reviews suggested lifting the body with a jack to release some tension from the shock to the bottom mount. Not sure if this holds any merit. Regardless I will be prepared with a breaker bar and a good impact driver. Torquing it back to 325-350 ft-lb is another story.
I had to loosen mine for the same reason. I used a 1/2" ratchet with a 3ft cheater and it worked well. Used the cheater to reinstall too, close enough to torqued for me.
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