Dynamat Xtreme Door Kit: Mixed feelings

[Stick in the Mud]

Spent a few hours installing the Dynamat Xtreme door kit on our BL-S 4DR. I am feeling a bit disappointed but still glad it’s there.

The good:
Perceptually, it made the doors sound solid on close, instead of hollow. It also seems to transform the high pitched whirring of the road noise into much lower muffled tones that conflict less with conversation and music.

The bad:
In spite of Dynamat’s claim of reducing noise by 3-4db, there was no measurable impact on the noise level up to 65 mph. The decibel meter picked up the exact same amount of noise energy as before. I measured both at the steering wheel and at the door, before and after.

It is a nice improvement but only appears to have perceptual impact, and not measurable impact, at least with Sasquatch.

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[nwGTS]

It sounds like you're saying Dynamat's claims are false. I don't see this as a Dynamat problem as much as I see it as a measurement problem; a problem unique to trucks with removable roofs.

It's like plugging all the holes in a sieve or colander only to note that water still leaks over the top.

Have you also performed any sound deadening to the roof? There are a few threads here that demonstrate that process using various foam tube insulation and adhesive seals.

 

[Stick in the Mud]

It sounds like you're saying Dynamat's claims are false. I don't see this as a Dynamat problem as much as I see it as a measurement problem; a problem unique to trucks with removable roofs.

It's like plugging all the holes in a sieve or colander only to note that water still leaks over the top.

Have you also performed any sound deadening to the roof? There are a few threads here that demonstrate that process using various foam tube insulation and adhesive seals.

It sounds like you’re being really defensive for no reason. My experience and measurements were inconsistent with Dynamat’s claims, simple as that. I didn’t call them fake or liars. Maybe drink a little less coffee? FWIW; their claims were for the Bronco specifically, so blaming the truck makes no sense. I am sure in a lab setting, with the perfect conditions, mics installed all around the vehicle, maybe there’s some measurable difference. For the average driver, the noise is the same at the door and above the wheel. As I said, I’m glad I installed it; it’s pretty cheap and made some perceptual difference as I said. If you don't like my results, do your own tests.

 

[nwGTS]

It sounds like you’re being really defensive for no reason. My experience and measurements were inconsistent with Dynamat’s claims, simple as that. I didn’t call them fake or liars. Maybe drink a little less coffee? FWIW; their claims were for the Bronco specifically, so blaming the truck makes no sense. I am sure in a lab setting, with the perfect conditions, mics installed all around the vehicle, maybe there’s some measurable difference. For the average driver, the noise is the same at the door and above the wheel. As I said, I’m glad I installed it; it’s pretty cheap and made some perceptual difference as I said. Before you start attacking people though, I suggest you conduct your own tests instead of arm chairing and trolling.

Woah. Nothing I said was a personal attack. Nothing I said was trolling. I even suggested a way that you could further reduce cabin noise by also fixing the leaks in the roof. I suggest you reread my comment.
To even further help and clarify, if your goal was to reduce road noise, the criticism of Dynamat (which i have no affiliation with or am even defending in any way) is not where to focus your energy. Applying sound deadening to the doors is not going to significantly reduce road noise, conceptually and evidenced also by your own claim, given the road/wind noise in the bronco is most attributed to the top. Instead and in addition, focus on the top.

I'm on your side that I'd be disappointed if a product claiming to provide some benefit cost me time, money and provided zero benefit. I took a chance to help and point out that the measurement method doesn't matter here given the top's road noise.

I suggest you also take some of your own medicine here. And I'm done holding your hand, good bye.

 

[Stick in the Mud]

Well I apologize then. It sure sounded like you were trying to attack me for a simple post about my experience.

At any rate, I’m sure there are other improvements to be made. Given the perception of the change, I was a bit surprised I couldn’t measure a difference. Again, I measured right at the door, which has always been measurably higher than the top or even the windows. Ironically, if the doors were all made of glass, they’d be quieter.

I’ve made a lot of changes to quiet it down already. Will continue to search for something that I can actually measure.

 

[Ft. Worth Rob]

I am thinking about doing my doors with the leftovers from my sub install just because of the hollow sound when the doors close. Did you take any pictures of your work? Just curious where all you placed it.

 

[Stick in the Mud]

I am thinking about doing my doors with the leftovers from my sub install just because of the hollow sound when the doors close. Did you take any pictures of your work? Just curious where all you placed it.

There’s some good YouTube’s on where everything goes. It’s three smaller panels on the inside of the door and one larger panel on the outside under where the trim goes. You end up covering almost everything - although I would have preferred if they covered over where the moisture barrier goes. I understand why they didn’t, but it seems like a pretty obvious place for sound to echo through.

 

[AK SNO RIDER]

Man, I should do this. I know it's a little thing but I hate how hollow the doors sound when you close them.

 

[Bigmoose]

There is no better measurement than your own ear. Using a simple dB SPL meter won't give you the picture you want. As you said the readings are the same but it sounds different (better?). This is because the human ears perception to loudness differs by frequency. If you want a scientific measurement you need a spectrum analyzer and you should cross reference it with the accepted human ear loudness scale:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Sound/eqloud.html

Sometimes changes to the vehicle that shifts sound to different frequencies can have positive improvements to your ear yet still have the same absolute dB SPL.

 

[Stick in the Mud]

There is no better measurement than your own ear. Using a simple dB SPL meter won't give you the picture you want. As you said the readings are the same but it sounds different (better?). This is because the human ears perception to loudness differs by frequency. If you want a scientific measurement you need a spectrum analyzer and you should cross reference it with the accepted human ear loudness scale:

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/Sound/eqloud.html

Sometimes changes to the vehicle that shifts sound to different frequencies can have positive improvements to your ear yet still have the same absolute dB SPL.

Agree with you here. Transformational fixes like this one free up the higher sound frequencies for conversations, music etc. Its a lot harder to have a conversation with someone playing a violin in your ear than it is a bass. That said, I wish something would actually quiet the car down on a quantifiable level.

 

[swooshdave]

Agree with you here. Transformational fixes like this one free up the higher sound frequencies for conversations, music etc. Its a lot harder to have a conversation with someone playing a violin in your ear than it is a bass. That said, I wish something would actually quiet the car down on a quantifiable level.

I think that goes back to what @nwGTS was trying to say, you only "plugged" one hole but when there are so many holes only one isn't going to change anything.

I think if you truly want to make a difference you need to do a full Dynomat of EVERY surface you can. Including the roof. Then you should see a difference.

But it will never, ever be as quiet as a fixed roof SUV.

 

[FreddieLee]

In my experience, it is more feel than a measurable reduction in ambient sound when in motion, and measuring decibels while in motion is part of the problem. The biggest offender in ambient sound is road and engine noise penetrating the firewall, the modular roof, and lack of aerodynamics.

Dynamat (and others) dampen the sheetmetal vibrations transferred into the vehicle from sharp potholes, rough terrain, typical city streets, etc. It dampens and transforms the sound, and changes how that sound reaches you, both audibly and physically.

Compared to the Raptor version, I doubt much (if any) engineering went into sound-proofing the Bronco as opposed to simply manufacturing it to prevent the elements (water and rain) from penetrating the cabin.

When you pull apart the rear cargo area, pull the cargo box, and find yourself looking at the rear axle, and can actually see the rear wheels on the left and right side, you know what you're working against when you start layering the sheet metal with your (insert brand) material.

In closing the tailgate and doors, you get a very nice thud instead of a slam. If you layer the flooring, it feels solid when you step into the vehicle, not metallic. Play music, instead of the sound bouncing around and partially escaping the cabin, the music completely consumes the cabin.

 

[CC1999]

Is there ant dynomat kits for 2 doors, and any links or recommendations on best place to buy It.
I know the tires SAS Tires are big contributors to road noise, the Territory MT is a loud tire.
i am planning to change my Goodyears out for Falken Wildpeaks I would like to do as much with this dynomat insulation as I can, hopefully between the two efforts it will make a reasonably noticeable difference. I am sure the tires will help. Just having solid sounding and feeling doors is a nice plus, one that I am wanting regardless.

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