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badclam

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There are less expensive alternatives out there that will do the job just as well.

1650799317707.png






😁
Yes this looks like it would help, but it looks like you have to take the tie rod apart to install it? That would mean I have to have a shop do it, so I don't know that I'd save anything, but I would have used it if I had not found the other option first...Band aids until we get a real good fix I guess. Which should come along shortly now that everyone knows what the problem is.
 

BAUS67

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Yes this looks like it would help, but it looks like you have to take the tie rod apart to install it? That would mean I have to have a shop do it, so I don't know that I'd save anything, but I would have used it if I had not found the other option first...Band aids until we get a real good fix I guess. Which should come along shortly now that everyone knows what the problem is.

You can count the number of turns off and then turn it back on the same amount and it should be close. Then it is just a trip to the alignment shop.😁
 

Ksjrb03

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His silly band-aid clamps that only fit OEM appear to work. He guarantees them. I installed them because I have nothing to lose, and everything to gain. There doesn't seem to be a consensus on any other solution. Most of us don't know enough about tie rods to feel safe putting on some cobbled together solution. There's no risk in strengthening a factory tie rod..... So as much as I'm envious of your and others understanding of the engineering of tie rods, when you do find the strong safe solution, and it's widely excepted, I'll put them on. Until then I'm using the band aid.
There is definitely a risk of making your tie rod indestructible. You could blow your steering rack when a $50 sacrificial tie rod should of blown first.
 

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badclam

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There is definitely a risk of making your tie rod indestructible. You could blow your steering rack when a $50 sacrificial tie rod should of blown first.
Yep. When we get that far, if the racks don't hold up, maybe we can swap for the Braptor racks. I here they're beefier. First things first. These tie rods are too much of a weak link, IMO.
 

Daktari

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There are less expensive alternatives out there that will do the job just as well.

1650799317707.png






😁
I know little about steering components, but don't you have to do alignment again after installing these? I'm in no way set up with tools and lifts nor do I have a clue how that is done, so I'd have to have these installed by the dealer or some other shop, then coming pretty close to what the broncbuster parts cost and wasting time with having the truck in the shop.
Or is this something I can just swap out myself with a standard tool set?
 

Ksjrb03

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Yep. When we get that far, if the racks don't hold up, maybe we can swap for the Braptor racks. I here they're beefier. First things first. These tie rods are too much of a weak link, IMO.
I look at it this way personally. The tie rods seem to be a very weak link. The steering rack appears to be a weak link. There has to be wiggle room to beef up the tie rods, without making the rack the vulnerable weak link. How much room is there to strengthen the tie rods? I don’t know, that’s for someone smarter than me. But those bronc guy braces sure look indestructible. I’m gonna hold off for now lol.

I like the way Dick is going with F150 or Raptor rods. Watching with interest.
 
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So we're looking for a ~16-5/8 length from center of TRE to end of threads that go into the rack. You can see the 04-08 F150 can do it, but has minimal thread engagement. I'm hoping the listed specs on the 09-14 TRE are correct and I gain the ~30mm published.

The other one is the old Ranger (and same diameter as Bronco). The extra 2mm of the F150 looks massive next to it.

Also note the Ranger TRE has a little upward kick, it would be beneficial for down travel if it was long enough.

PXL_20220425_005418932.jpg
 

BAUS67

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I know little about steering components, but don't you have to do alignment again after installing these? I'm in no way set up with tools and lifts nor do I have a clue how that is done, so I'd have to have these installed by the dealer or some other shop, then coming pretty close to what the broncbuster parts cost and wasting time with having the truck in the shop.
Or is this something I can just swap out myself with a standard tool set?

You would just count the number of times you turn the outer tie rod off and then turn it the same amount of times back on and you should be close enough to get it to an alignment shop. Now for that matter the alignment shop cold easy enough put them on it is as easy as described above. Once the adjustment is made to the tie rod it is locked down with the jam nut. then the sleeve is threaded against the jam nut providing some beef to the inner tie at its weakest point, where the threads are cut in the tie rod.

As I have stated before those in desert (read dry) conditions the BB thing might work ok for them I live in mud, snow, salty brine covered roads this leads to two pieces of billet screwed together does not want to be service after some time together. Which then means I will have to cut it apart to service the vehicle. Think BB is gonna' warranty that. DOUT IT. So I have to buy another one and for me it is cheaper to get the JKS it will do the job and not drain the bank account.
 

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So we're looking for a ~16-5/8 length from center of TRE to end of threads that go into the rack. You can see the 04-08 F150 can do it, but has minimal thread engagement. I'm hoping the listed specs on the 09-14 TRE are correct and I gain the ~30mm published.

The other one is the old Ranger (and same diameter as Bronco). The extra 2mm of the F150 looks massive next to it.

Also note the Ranger TRE has a little upward kick, it would be beneficial for down travel if it was long enough.

PXL_20220425_005418932.jpg
I'm really stoked your doing this! I'm surprised the taper is the same at the mount and the threads are the same at the rack ends too? Fantastic !!!
 
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Tricky Dick

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I'm really stoked your doing this! I'm surprised the taper is the same at the mount and the threads are the same at the rack ends too? Fantastic !!!
The taper is still a question mark. 99% chance it's 7 degrees. Question is what the major diameter is and if it will sit in the knuckle correctly. I have a reamer if it needs to sit deeper but I'm hoping it doesn't come to that.

It's funny, a big draw to the Bronco was ready to wheel out of the box, I wouldn't need to build it. Ha, right.
 
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BigMeatsBronco

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So I went ahead and ordered the RC uprights for the simple reason they have the tie rod mounts in a much higher position. Which will result in the tie rods being almost level at my ride height. This WILL decrease the angle on the rack which will make it less likely
to have issues... The best part about this experiment is that they are ONLY $199 for the pair!..(half the price of BB band-aid) and when combined with Tricky Dicks HD Tie Rod Solution, it should help dramatically.

The only issue I see is how the upper UCA will sit with a 4-5" higher attachment point and if the geometry will be affected severe or minimal amounts.

bronco_5in_base~2.jpg
 
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Tricky Dick

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So I went ahead and ordered the RC uprights for the simple reason they have the tie rod mounts in a much higher position. Which will result in the tie rods being almost level at my ride height. This WILL decrease the angle on the rack which will make it less likely
to have issues... The best part about this experiment is that they are ONLY $199 for the pair!..(half the price of BB band-aid) and when combined with Tricky Dicks HD Tie Rod Solution, it should help dramatically.

The only issue I see is how the upper UCA will sit with a 4-5" higher attachment point and if the geometry will be affected severe or minimal amounts.

Ford Bronco Exploring off-the-shelf tie rod upgrades bronco_5in_base~2
I'm curious how this works out. I'd be worried about possible bump steer too.
 
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