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For non powered subs, what amp are you using?

marjen

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Did you guys use the plugnplay harnesses? I'm probably going this route, 200.4 for front, 500.1 for sub
I did however I had trouble getting a consistent signal from the amp. The installer thinks there is an issue with the harness. I had to get an additional kicker box, forget what it’s called to make sure I was getting a solid signal to the sub amp.
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Dmorty217

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Yes. He made me one harness that runs from the front all the way to the back.

Edit: I got kit 11-2 200.4 with harness, and also provided speakers. Called him to confirm/add to my invoice the 17 foot harness with load resistor for the 500.1 for an additional $45.
This
 

DJ1

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Most people here rave about kicker 200.4, but that won't work for the sub. Recently ordered one of those stinger boxes, but I'm still lost on what to power it with
What sub are you running? That should dictate what amp you plan to use.
 

DJ1

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Getting this:
https://stingerelectronics.com/products/txfbb12

Is Kicker 500 good for that?
It should be a good match from the specs. If you want easy and cheap, Kicker Key amps are a good choice. Especially if you don't want to do any tuning or optimization yourself. Another question is how much bass do you want? With the top down at 70mph, do you want to still hear the bass?
 

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broncoToBe

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It should be a good match from the specs. If you want easy and cheap, Kicker Key amps are a good choice. Especially if you don't want to do any tuning or optimization yourself. Another question is how much bass do you want? With the top down at 70mph, do you want to still hear the bass?
I don't really plan on going completely topless. I have a hardtop so the most I would do is the driver and backseat roof off, but trunk top would stay on
 

MnLakeBum

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Here are a couple of solid choices for that under $300 price point. I use a more expensive 3 channel JL amp to run the systems in my boat and daily driver. They have been rock solid for sound and reliability.

7F6D7B33-9392-4EC9-AA19-410C43F1C5CA.jpeg
 

DJ1

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Here are a couple of solid choices for that under $300 price point. I use a more expensive 3 channel JL amp to run the systems in my boat and daily driver. They have been rock solid for sound and reliability.

Ford Bronco For non powered subs, what amp are you using? 7F6D7B33-9392-4EC9-AA19-410C43F1C5CA
Those are both good options and good value for mono amps. I used a Kicker CXA mono for one of my other cars. And both of those are pushing enough power at 2 ohms to be useful in a Bronco.
 

Jeverall

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200.4 front, 500.1 rear, with a down firing sub. Wiring harness from Hoel. easy install.

key in cubby.jpeg


kicker sub.jpeg
 

B A C N O W

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Morel Hybrid 2 way system.
AudioControl D-5.1300 Amp (4 x 100 watts + 1 x 500watts)
Gathering components and haven’t decided on sub yet!
I probably won’t have it assembled until after the holidays….🫤
 

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Kicker DX 250.1 driving two Kicker 10’s at 1 OHM load, crossed at 80hz and I have to dial the bass back. I custom built the box and deck panel for hidden appearance. The back side of the amp rack I have a kicker key 200.4. 2 channels are driving all 4 of the 4” using the rear factory channel 250hz line input signal and the other 2 channel inputs are coming from front kicks into the LC7i and then into the Kicker Key. That channel is driving the 6.5 kicks at 120hz cutoff using the Key crossover. All signals routed and tuned going through audiocontrol lc7i. Key is DSP tuned. Front 4” and 6.5” Alpine, rear 4” Pioneer. Sounds awesome and can crank all the way with zero distortion. Great soundstage. #1 upgrade and 1k well spent.
Ford Bronco For non powered subs, what amp are you using? D59E58D8-79A9-4A31-BF94-AC5918461D5A
Ford Bronco For non powered subs, what amp are you using? FABD7239-89E2-496B-A443-E29FEEFC77A4
 
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BroncoAZ

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I have the Kicker Key 200.4 with plugandplay harness 11-4. I plan on adding a Kicker 500.1 mainly because it will fit up in the dashboard above the glove box. I mounted the 200.4 below the steering wheel. It will make the power wire run nice and short while also being out of the way.
 

DJ1

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dangerfoot

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Kicker DX 250.1 driving two Kicker 10’s at 1 OHM load, crossed at 80hz and I have to dial the bass back. I custom built the box and deck panel for hidden appearance. The back side of the amp rack I have a kicker key 200.4. 2 channels are driving all 4 of the 4” using the rear factory channel 250hz line input signal and the other 2 channel inputs are coming from front kicks into the LC7i and then into the Kicker Key. That channel is driving the 6.5 kicks at 120hz cutoff using the Key crossover. All signals routed and tuned going through audiocontrol lc7i. Key is DSP tuned. Front 4” and 6.5” Alpine, rear 4” Pioneer. Sounds awesome and can crank all the way with zero distortion. Great soundstage. #1 upgrade and 1k well spent.
Ford Bronco For non powered subs, what amp are you using? FABD7239-89E2-496B-A443-E29FEEFC77A4
Fantastic work, thinking about something similar too...Have a Hideaway 10 rn but need a stealthy solution b/c I leave the hardtop off for extended periods of time. So to be clear, the front portion of that raised bed is the sub box, right? Really dig this and might fab up a false floor just to hide the HS10 for the time being.


Key is just popular because size, capabilities and DSP
I've run all my own audio for years...JL, Focal, Infinity, etc. With the constraints and considerations of integration with modern fully featured vehicles, the Key with PnP harness is a fantastic option. Does it sound as good as some of my SQ setups in the past? 90% of the way there, and with this convertible/MT tired vehicle, that's good enough without spending 5x as much!
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