Ford confirms a green 2022 Bronco color for MY22! *Not Filson Wildland Fire Rig Green*

[RBF 1401]

The way I see it, if you can afford a Bronco you can afford to get it painted yourself any color you want.

We obviously live in very different worlds.??
Just because I can splurge for a jar of caviar to celebrate a special occasion doesn't mean I can afford to buy a silver spoon for serving it.??
Or from a different perspective:
Why would I pay extra money to someone to paint my Bronco when I just paid Ford to electrostaticly paint my Bronco at the factory?

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[Broncoak]

?
Lots of people and then some for a good job.
I do this on the side, been painting for about 30 years.
The truck in my profile placed 2nd in its first show, lost out to a 32 Ford full fender car with a $24k paint job.
Twenty-four. Thousand. Dollar. Paint job.
Not including bodywork.
Now that's insane.
6K? not insane.
I had probably half that in materials alone in that paint job.
Maaco isn't where it's at, and anyone spending 60K on a new car wouldn't get a $599 Maaco job anyway. (and it's NEVER just $599, that's a bait-n-switch).
I can do mine at cost but will not take a DA sander to a new car I am paying for.
If someone else wants their Bronco painted, hey it's their decision and I'll sand and paint it better than factory, but not my own. Not yet.
Give it a few years' worth of wear and tear and I'll be OD greening that bad boy with matte tan Raptor portions on the lower body.

Appreciate the wisdom. I'd love to be able to do my own paint work. Right now I'm just trying to figure out how to repair a wheel arch on my FSB ?
I agree, why paint a brand new $50k+ vehicle? I'll see about wrapping anything I "must" have now, then maybe touch up later, after normal wear/tear, like you said.

 

[Grooticus]

The graphics on the bottom NEED to be an option

 

[broadicustomworks]

Appreciate the wisdom. I'd love to be able to do my own paint work. Right now I'm just trying to figure out how to repair a wheel arch on my FSB ?

slow and steady.
Only use as much of the patch panel as you have to. Just because it is X inches wide by X inches tall doesn't mean ya cut that same shape out. Factory metal is FAR superior to that pretend 18ga stuff they sell aftermarket.
1. cut the factory metal rust area out, making sure to get it all.
2. cut your patch panel slightly larger than your hole and take tiny bits of it off as you go until it fits right.
3. tack, move to the other end, tack, tack in the middle, back to the first one and tack beside it, etc. 4. Go ahead and gently grind down your tacks as you go once you get about 12 or so of them on there. If you hit the metal on each side of the tack, stop grinding. Repeat until done.
5. Use a body hammer to gently tap down high spots, use filler sparingly, but cover the entire area plus a few inches outside of the repair area. Sand it with a long block, prime it with a good high build primer.
6. Spray a light coat of black paint on there, let dry. This is your guide coat.
7. Sand that with the block in all directions until you either hit metal (stop and re-prime or re-glaze it) or all of the black is gone and edges are feathered out.
8. Prime it again.
9. Wipe it with a prep solvent (or pour it down the side is more conducive). Look at it from all angles, as the shine from the liquid mimics a clear coat and will show you any waves left over.
10. prime, block, prime as much as you have to to get it straight.
Important notes:
-Too much heat too fast will ruin the metal and warp it, making a huge repair.
-Make sure the surface is meticulously clean before applying the next step.
-If it is fairly wavy after your grinding you can use a fiber-reinforced filler and it will grab the metal better and give you more to sand.
-Don't use pray-can primers. They suck, and do not sand well at all. Bare minimum should b a Kirker high build or something of the sort.
-Make sure and coat the back side and inside of the panel with a good rust-preventative product.

-kind of off-subject of green paint from Ford....but I got on a tangent there.

 

[lobbs611]

As long as it doesn't look like a damn army truck with an ugly flat olive green I'm OK with it.

Exactly my sentiment. I hope Ford doesn't fall into the played out olive drab trap.

 

[Java9]

umm... isn't cactus grey, actually a green shade?
Or I am interacting with a bunch of color blind males* who cannot tell?

Maybe the green was there all along, and you just could not see it.


* Males have an exponentially higher chance of being colorblind than females.

The rendering of CG on Fords site is way off. Seeing it in person, it is more of a concrete gray with very slight tint of any semblance of green depending on the angle and shade.

 

[RobPS]

Not a fan of any green....they can have it.

 

[rtsherry73]

I bet it is a "high- impact" green, like the new Toyota 4 Runner color. Otherwise, who needs a boring green? Also, I bet it could be an "extra cost option."

 

[Southern Girl]

Oooooh...now do turquoise, please

 

[tumalo]

Green it is, count me in on another 2door GREEN Bronco.

 

[Colorado buff]

Good. Green, orange and tan for the few that want should round out the colour choices nicely.

 

[eBronco]

Finally.

 

[Broncoak]

slow and steady.
Only use as much of the patch panel as you have to. Just because it is X inches wide by X inches tall doesn't mean ya cut that same shape out. Factory metal is FAR superior to that pretend 18ga stuff they sell aftermarket.
1. cut the factory metal rust area out, making sure to get it all.
2. cut your patch panel slightly larger than your hole and take tiny bits of it off as you go until it fits right.
3. tack, move to the other end, tack, tack in the middle, back to the first one and tack beside it, etc. 4. Go ahead and gently grind down your tacks as you go once you get about 12 or so of them on there. If you hit the metal on each side of the tack, stop grinding. Repeat until done.
5. Use a body hammer to gently tap down high spots, use filler sparingly, but cover the entire area plus a few inches outside of the repair area. Sand it with a long block, prime it with a good high build primer.
6. Spray a light coat of black paint on there, let dry. This is your guide coat.
7. Sand that with the block in all directions until you either hit metal (stop and re-prime or re-glaze it) or all of the black is gone and edges are feathered out.
8. Prime it again.
9. Wipe it with a prep solvent (or pour it down the side is more conducive). Look at it from all angles, as the shine from the liquid mimics a clear coat and will show you any waves left over.
10. prime, block, prime as much as you have to to get it straight.
Important notes:
-Too much heat too fast will ruin the metal and warp it, making a huge repair.
-Make sure the surface is meticulously clean before applying the next step.
-If it is fairly wavy after your grinding you can use a fiber-reinforced filler and it will grab the metal better and give you more to sand.
-Don't use pray-can primers. They suck, and do not sand well at all. Bare minimum should b a Kirker high build or something of the sort.
-Make sure and coat the back side and inside of the panel with a good rust-preventative product.

-kind of off-subject of green paint from Ford....but I got on a tangent there.

I'll have to take this one line at a time. I have NO experience doing it. Sincerely appreciate the detail though, it helps! Thanks!

 

[Broncocito]

This is the color I have been asking for. Mil Vet here too and I would prefer it olive drab; nonetheless, this color is a winner.

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