Ford Senior Master Tech Here (w/ Bronco Ordered). Have Questions?

[Carolina Jim]

It would not be the first Ford error on this launch.

does anyone have a running total???

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[Hemisfear]

Consumer reports (not biased) interviewed engineers from multiple major manufactures and the short answer is modern engines and transmissions do not need break in periods. They are manufactured better than on the past ads designed for showtime from day 1. The fact that this is required for the Bronco is likely coming from the legal team as the break in recommendation was wildly broad, as will the Master Techs answer will be. New model, you never know what could go wrong and it’s better for it to go wrong at a slower speed and while not towing a 5th wheel than at slower speeds. Ford learns a things from the Explorer tread separate days

Mmm...asking car manufacturer's engineers if there is a break in period, sounds fine, but wouldn't their statement ultimately be in their best interest...selling new cars? lol

Personally I follow the advise of my mechanic dad...NOTHING OVER 3000RPM FOR 1000 MILES OR TWO...
Current ride:
2014 Focus ST - +260,000kms, no oil consumption, no noticeable loss of power, great fuel economy, just installed some Bilsteins and Michelins, drives better than the day I purchased it!
Previous ride:
2002 Focus ST - +350,000kms and still running to the dude I sold it to!
1994 2Dr Explorer - +300,000kms - Ford had nothing to do with the Firestone ATX tire issues, in fact the only issue was the tires tread lasted far too long and because of age the rubber would split, like ALL rubber will with time!
In all my 7 of my personally owned vehicles, I have never had an engine related issue.

I think I'll trust my dad...

 

[Lake Tahoe Traveler]

The catch can is for gas engines that are direct injected. The issue is that since the gas is injected directly into the cylinder the blowby oil from the crankcase that is routed into the intake can cause a carbon build up on the back of the intake vales, since there is no gas to wash it off. Previously, in port injected engines gas was injected into the intake and so the gas cleaned the back of the valves. This hasn't been an issue on diesel engines.

After 2001 (I think) our CA smog tests are simply an inspection and checking for codes. If the check engine light isn't on, then you pass the smog check. I wonder how many smog techs are going to check carefully enough to see a catch can. Who knows.

BTW, the 2.7 was designed with the gas injected in the port right in front of the valve, for this reason. No catch can or carbon build up on 2.7 motors.

I completely agree!!!! COKING on the intake valves has been addressed with the advent of port injection.

However.....

Another thing to consider is.... this turbo charged 2.7 puts positive pressure into the manifold which temporarily shuts down the vacuum required to pull vapors from the PCV. Then, at the same time, when the Turbos spool up (PCV shut off) the fresh air breather (which was intentionally routed right by the turbo intake on the drivers side) stops being a breather but rather an exit for pressures (blow by) building in the crank case. In reality, the turbos (when spooling) pull oil vapors out of the crank case via the breather. This in turn, coats oil vapor from the turbo to intercooler then to the manifold. YOUR INTERCOOLER WAS NOT DESIGNED FOR THIS. Its function is to cool clean filtered air pressurized (heated up air)by the turbos then sent to the manifold. Over time, sucked in crank case breather oil vapors… will eventually cake on to the intercooler cooling veins, thusly reducing heat transfer. Its function to cool down the pressurized hot air is minimized. Similar to a radiator that's core has been plugged up with rust and other debris over time. It greatly reduces it's effectiveness to cool.

So the point of port injection is very relevant to stop coking on the intake valves, and is a major improvement.... however the engine would still greatly benefit from minimizing crank case oil vapor (fuel, oil, water vapors) finding it's way to the intercooler (and other intake areas).

Something to think about?????

 

[johndeerefarmer]

Mmm...asking car manufacturer's engineers if there is a break in period, sounds fine, but wouldn't their statement ultimately be in their best interest...selling new cars? lol

Personally I follow the advise of my mechanic dad...NOTHING OVER 3000RPM FOR 1000 MILES OR TWO...
Current ride:
2014 Focus ST - +260,000kms, no oil consumption, no noticeable loss of power, great fuel economy, just installed some Bilsteins and Michelins, drives better than the day I purchased it!
Previous ride:
2002 Focus ST - +350,000kms and still running to the dude I sold it to!
1994 2Dr Explorer - +300,000kms - Ford had nothing to do with the Firestone ATX tire issues, in fact the only issue was the tires tread lasted far too long and because of age the rubber would split, like ALL rubber will with time!
In all my 7 of my personally owned vehicles, I have never had an engine related issue.

I think I'll trust my dad...

Obviously your dad doesn't build high performance engines

 

[Hemisfear]

Obviously your dad doesn't build high performance engines

Actually he and I have a history of turning wrenches for championship racing teams, you on the other hand are ignorant and assuming! lol

 

[FerkinBlonco]

Hello @AllFordTech,

Do you know if the colorful tabs on the interior climate control vents can be easily changed out?

Thanks!

 

[Mr. Nice]

The catch can is for gas engines that are direct injected. The issue is that since the gas is injected directly into the cylinder the blowby oil from the crankcase that is routed into the intake can cause a carbon build up on the back of the intake vales, since there is no gas to wash it off. Previously, in port injected engines gas was injected into the intake and so the gas cleaned the back of the valves. This hasn't been an issue on diesel engines.

After 2001 (I think) our CA smog tests are simply an inspection and checking for codes. If the check engine light isn't on, then you pass the smog check. I wonder how many smog techs are going to check carefully enough to see a catch can. Who knows.

BTW, the 2.7 was designed with the gas injected in the port right in front of the valve, for this reason. No catch can or carbon build up on 2.7 motors.

I have to disagree here. First off I have a can/box in both my sports cars, one turbo and the other is a NA non-direct inject.
You would not believe the gunk that come out of the can on the turbo car. The NA car only catches a small amount of oil.

You definitely don't want ANY of what I catch running back into your intake system. Why would you? Are you forgetting about the performance benefits of not retarding the timing due to detonation? Or limiting the possibilities from engine damage from detonation?

Seeing is believing...

From Summit Racing
Engine Detonation

Definition & Description
Detonation is spontaneous combustion inside the cylinder AFTER the spark plug fires. It is similar to Pre-Ignition, but it is different.
During normal ignition, the spark plug fires just before the piston reaches TDC. The flame travels across the combustion chamber igniting the Air/Fuel Mixture. This causes a steady increase in cylinder pressure and forces the piston down on the Power Stroke.
When detonation happens, some of the air/fuel ignites before the normal burn can get to it. This causes a brief, but intense, spike in cylinder pressure.
Detonation is also called an "Engine Knock", "Knocking", or "Pinging" because of the sound it makes.
How is it indicated?

• Knocking or pinging sound
• Drop in Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT)
• Broken piston rings and/or spark plugs
• Damage to the piston and/or valves

What causes it?
Detonation can be caused by several factors. A few common causes are:
Over-Advanced Ignition Timing
If Ignition Timing is too far advanced, the spark plug fires too soon. This causes the flame to end early. The remaining fuel can detonate.
Lean Air/Fuel Mixture
A rich Air/Fuel Mixture runs cooler than a lean mixture. A lean mixture can get too hot and detonate.
Too Much Compression
Compression causes heat. If the air/fuel mixture is compressed too much, it can detonate.
Engine Overheating
Low coolant or a bad water pump can cause the engine to overheat. Too much heat can cause the air/fuel in the chamber to detonate.
Low Octane Fuel
Octane Rating is a measure of "knock resistance". Switching to higher grade fuel can help a knocking engine.
How does it affect performance?
An engine is designed to work in a specific way. Because detonation interrupts that design, it robs the engine of power.
Most engines can handle some minor detonation. Modern, fuel injected engines can sense a knock and adjust the Air/Fuel Ratio and Ignition Timing. However, if the detonation is not fixed, it will damage the engine. Just one major detonation event could cause significant damage.

 

[Rlack75]

Has @AllFordTech been abducted?

 

[goatman]

I have to disagree here. First off I have a can/box in both my sports cars, one turbo and the other is a NA non-direct inject.
You would not believe the gunk that come out of the can on the turbo car. The NA car only catches a small amount of oil.

You definitely don't want ANY of what I catch running back into your intake system. Why would you? Are you forgetting about the performance benefits of not retarding the timing due to detonation? Or limiting the possibilities from engine damage from detonation?

Seeing is believing...

From Summit Racing
Engine Detonation

Definition & Description
Detonation is spontaneous combustion inside the cylinder AFTER the spark plug fires. It is similar to Pre-Ignition, but it is different.
During normal ignition, the spark plug fires just before the piston reaches TDC. The flame travels across the combustion chamber igniting the Air/Fuel Mixture. This causes a steady increase in cylinder pressure and forces the piston down on the Power Stroke.
When detonation happens, some of the air/fuel ignites before the normal burn can get to it. This causes a brief, but intense, spike in cylinder pressure.
Detonation is also called an "Engine Knock", "Knocking", or "Pinging" because of the sound it makes.
How is it indicated?

• Knocking or pinging sound
• Drop in Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT)
• Broken piston rings and/or spark plugs
• Damage to the piston and/or valves

What causes it?
Detonation can be caused by several factors. A few common causes are:
Over-Advanced Ignition Timing
If Ignition Timing is too far advanced, the spark plug fires too soon. This causes the flame to end early. The remaining fuel can detonate.
Lean Air/Fuel Mixture
A rich Air/Fuel Mixture runs cooler than a lean mixture. A lean mixture can get too hot and detonate.
Too Much Compression
Compression causes heat. If the air/fuel mixture is compressed too much, it can detonate.
Engine Overheating
Low coolant or a bad water pump can cause the engine to overheat. Too much heat can cause the air/fuel in the chamber to detonate.
Low Octane Fuel
Octane Rating is a measure of "knock resistance". Switching to higher grade fuel can help a knocking engine.
How does it affect performance?
An engine is designed to work in a specific way. Because detonation interrupts that design, it robs the engine of power.
Most engines can handle some minor detonation. Modern, fuel injected engines can sense a knock and adjust the Air/Fuel Ratio and Ignition Timing. However, if the detonation is not fixed, it will damage the engine. Just one major detonation event could cause significant damage.

I gave a very basic answer, mostly referring to his comment about his diesel engine. And, a bit of info referring to the valve issue of direct injection engines. Basic info. Happy for others to expand on that.

 

[johndeerefarmer]

Actually he and I have a history of turning wrenches for championship racing teams, you on the other hand are ignorant and assuming! lol

Then you should know that race engines are broke in at way over 3000 rpm. You sound like another keyboard warrior with no real experience

 

[cowman]

I know. Page 399, I have the manual.
BUT there are people that have drained their oil from the forums that say they are only getting 6 quarts.
It would not be the first Ford error on this launch.
Better safe than sorry.

Had a Dodge diesel that held 11 quarts.... always put in 12 quarts... you would not believe the total miles I put on it without one min. of trouble....

 

[Hemisfear]

Then you should know that race engines are broke in at way over 3000 rpm. You sound like another keyboard warrior with no real experience

Why would you need to break

Then you should know that race engines are broke in at way over 3000 rpm. You sound like another keyboard warrior with no real experience

Racing motors are not intended for regular use and are rebuilt long before any break in would be helpful, this is pretty common knowledge, but you go ahead and run your brand new Bronco as hard as you like, because no one does johndeerefarmer like you! lol

 

[Ponyup]

does the full skid plate package cover the catalytic converter?

 

[redstarn]

So I have a 4 door 2.3 big bend manual transmission. I have a few issues and was wondering if you had any input?

1. Brake light comes on and goes off after it sits for about an hour or so. Dealer has no codes on this issue yet.
2. Soft top side panels are marked up from framing on soft top. I have a line from rubbing on the inside of glass(plastic) on both window panels.
3. Soft top wont click in place in both half and fully down positions. Passenger side I have to adjust rubber so top wont vibrate in the down position.
4. Whistling noise which I think is coming from the front grill and not mirrors.
5. After doors have been reinstalled the bolts come loose after awhile.
6. Top down windows up and wipers on the drivers wiper make a noise from hell fighting the wind.

All this being said I love the Bronco and wouldn't trade it for anything. I have 7,613 miles on her right now and have only had her for 4 weeks.

Have you used eco , i tried it yesterday , the 2.3 in eco ran the highway at 28 miles to the gallon , heavy cowboy boot was less and better with cowboy hat waving in the air .be safe drive slower and get better fuel mileage .

 

[rutherk1]

Just had the interior out. I noticed all the wiring down the side of the vehicle is lose and not Tesa taped or loomed. Just bare wire sitting in the routing tray. My last 3 trucks, were all taped at the least. Cost savings?

I know my super duty had sections that, if not taped, had a hard plastic tube around the wires.

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