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ForScan Rear Speaker & EQ Findings

71to21-2DR

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Got my Computer and Forscan
Tried 3800 and 28F1 instead of 1-4 F1
900 to much rattle… back to 901
For the second address
Have not really cranked it yet
But hear more in back
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Got my Computer and Forscan
Tried 3800 and 28F1 instead of 1-4 F1
900 to much rattle… back to 901
For the second address
Have not really cranked it yet
But hear more in back
Yeah it’s not going to be a mind blowing change but will definitely fill out the sound stage particularly with aftermarket speakers
 

BBSas

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Thanks for all of this info. For the sake of not getting it wrong could you post your final settings with the amp and with FORscan? Trying not to get lost in the weeds. Did a few things this weekend like disable double honk, add GOAT modes and disable start stop. Next up stereo and DRL’s. 6 speaker system, upgrading to either Kicker or JL? Any recommendations on either? 4’s and 6.5’s in the back and kick panel, no sub.
 

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Thanks for all of this info. For the sake of not getting it wrong could you post your final settings with the amp and with FORscan? Trying not to get lost in the weeds. Did a few things this weekend like disable double honk, add GOAT modes and disable start stop. Next up stereo and DRL’s. 6 speaker system, upgrading to either Kicker or JL? Any recommendations on either? 4’s and 6.5’s in the back and kick panel, no sub.
My 200.4 switches are set to: Auto turn on - DC, Fader -off, compression - on, bi-amp -off, kicker EQ - EN, time delay - EN, HP filter - 80 hz (I think that’s both switches in the up position, check the manual).
As for Forscan - audio related settings are:
727-01-01 = 3800 xxxx xxxx (ONLY change the 3800, rest will change themselves as check-sums)
727-01-02 = 0901 xxxx xxxx
Added Rock Crawl mode on my Wildtrak:
ABS Module 760-04-03 set to xxxx xxx1 xxxx (again, leave anything with an ”x” alone regardless of value). I’ve got the rest of the goat mode codes if you are specific about what you wanna add and what you currently have (trim).

Disable double honk - BdyCM (non as-built module): ”Double honk on leaving cabin - Disabled”
DRL’s set to run amber during daytime (when headlights off):
BdyCM (non as-built module): Right (& left) Front turn lamp usage: ”Turn and DRL”

Also disabled the timeout of all my power points if you’re interested.. handy for camping, etc. Did that in the BdyCM - non as-built module “Enable/Disable Power point feature: Disable”

I left the auto-start/stop alone due to not liking how it tricks the system into not shutting it off.. don’t want it to doink anything.

I added Kicker speakers at all 6 spots - 46CSC674’s at kick panel spots and 47KSC404’s at all 4 other locations. Rears will only accept 4” speakers unless you have an aftermarket speaker pod.

I also have an 8” Kicker Hideaway powered sub which is probably the single best addition to the system as a whole.. signal tapped off of the kick panel speakers.
 

71to21-2DR

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Yeah it’s not going to be a mind blowing change but will definitely fill out the sound stage particularly with aftermarket speakers
Reading your post below just do 3800 and leave the 14F1 mode instead of the 28 you tried a long time ago?
And 901 on the second one?
I have the same set up as you, except for the woofer
 

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Reading your post below just do 3800 and leave the 14F1 mode instead of the 28 you tried a long time ago?
And 901 on the second one?
I have the same set up as you, except for the woofer
ONLY change 3800.. the other two sets of numbers/letters on that row will change themselves based on 3800. Can’t emphasize that enough.. it auto calculates the values for the 2 boxes of four digit numbers/letters east of 3800.

And yeah.. I tried 0900 but it removed settings from my menu and made things sound worse so I changed it back to 0901
 

BBSas

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Thanks. I have the Big Bend so to add Baja and Rock I had to go to ABS Module 760-04-03 set to xxxx *2*3 xxxx. It recalculated the last 4 which bothered me but I was informed by another member to not worry about that, it was normal. Thanks for the audio module settings.Do I not need to change to speakers with tweeter?
 

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Thanks. I have the Big Bend so to add Baja and Rock I had to go to ABS Module 760-04-03 set to xxxx *2*3 xxxx. It recalculated the last 4 which bothered me but I was informed by another member to not worry about that, it was normal. Thanks for the audio module settings.Do I not need to change to speakers with tweeter?
Yeah any values other than the ones you specifically change to add the GOAT modes (in your case x2x3) will auto calculate and change themselves which is absolutely the way you want to leave it.
As for the speakers/tweeter situation - you can play with it and see what your results are but I didn’t
 

71to21-2DR

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ONLY change 3800.. the other two sets of numbers/letters on that row will change themselves based on 3800. Can’t emphasize that enough.. it auto calculates the values for the 2 boxes of four digit numbers/letters east of 3800.

And yeah.. I tried 0900 but it removed settings from my menu and made things sound worse so I changed it back to 0901
OK got it I was just confirming!
These posts go on forever and ever, and get confusing sometimes
Thanks
 

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TLDR:
3800 mod only changes front speaker settings. You need to also change the middle code block at address 727-01-01 to affect rear speakers. This post contains a list of all the code values you can use and what they do.

FULL POST:
What I have detailed below is applicable to my 2021 4 door Base. YMMV.

My "as built" values in ACM were:
727-01-01 382B 14F1 0098
727-01-02 0901 000D 0048

The conventional wisdom I've read on this site says changing 727-01-01 XX** to 00 or 01 will send full range to rear speakers. In my internet searching and tinkering with ForScan, I can confidently say it doesn't do anything to my rear speakers. And I don't think it does anything for anyone else's either.

My as built front power source and left speaker specs was 2 = internal power, speaker and tweeter (I believe S&T sends the widest range of frequencies from the list of options). I wrote 3 (no front left speaker) just to confirm my cheat sheet was right. It was. When I wrote value 3 in this spot the front left speaker went silent. I changed value back to as built, as it seemed like the right value to use based on the options below.
Power Source and Front Left Specs.jpeg


Front right and center channel specs: my as built was B, which is speaker and tweeter for front right and no signal for center channel (base has no center channel). Again I tinkered to confirm the list below did what it says it does; the as built value seemed appropriate so no change.
Front Right and Center Channel Specs.jpeg


Here's where it gets interesting... rear power and left rear speaker specs. As built value was 1 = internal amp, tweeter only. I changed this to 2 = internal amp, speaker and tweeter. I perceived it to get slightly louder and when turned up mid frequencies would break up the stock speakers a little. I think it's sending a wider frequency band, and that's what we want!
Power Source and Rear Left Specs.jpeg


Rear right, sub, and rear center specs... as built was 4, I changed it to 8. Both rear speakers now sound like they are getting pushed slightly harder. I have replacement speakers and 150 Hz blockers on order that will be installed next weekend. I'm expecting to hear an even more noticeable change once those are installed and for the midrange slop I hear in the factory speakers to disappear.
Rear Right, Sub, and Center Specs.jpeg


moving on to section 727-01-02, this is supposedly the various preset EQ options. I changed mine from 01 to 00 and didn't notice a lot of difference, but that may be due to the crappy stock speakers. I'll try changes at this address again once I get new speakers in. What's not clear is if there are actually different EQs assigned to all the values below or if some of them are simply unused placeholders. My ears couldn't tell with factory speakers. What we do know is some upper trims have as build value of 00 (flat response) here, but my base has value of 01... so there's at least one real EQ preset in the list otherwise every as built would be 00.
ACM EQ Values.jpeg


Some other things worth noting as I played with these changes in ForScan:
1. I used the fader and balance to isolate changes to the speakers I was tinkering with. Every time I wrote a change the fader and balance would reset to center.
2. I was playing music through CarPlay to listen to these changes so I could repeat the same track over and over. When I was done with my changes and went back to satellite radio I found that it was back to demo mode. I had to call Sirius to push my subscription settings back to the vehicle.

Source for the screen shots is below. I found that the site responds better on mobile that desktop.
https://cyanlabs.net/asbuilt-db/acm3/
Ford Bronco ForScan Rear Speaker & EQ Findings 29EA9EDD-B67D-4DD7-837F-16323F06CD3F


I played around with this just now and looks like the register settings are correct. I have the 7 speaker 23 system and I removed the sub. So first thing I saw was an error code on the ACM for an open circuit. I also changed the rear speakers to tweeter speaker and I had no sound difference. I also have a kick key 200.4 so that’s probably why. I went ahead and change the register to match OPs removing the sub since it’s disconnected.
 

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BBSas

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I recently added the plugnplay harness, kicker 4” in the front with bass blockers and kicker 6.5 in the rear with the Mabett rear pods and a kicker 200.4 amp all with the help of several different forums and members posts. I did not change the kicks as I have a 2 door. It was much better than factory but I still wasn’t 100% happy. Today, I made the Forscan adjust that other members did and WOW, game changer. I am now 100%. I’m not big on the bass thump but if you are you’ll want to add a sub, somewhere. Again, thanks to all on this forum or I would have paid a bunch more from a stereo shop and got the same result!
 

Pharmguy

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If you have a b&o and want to try a different config that works for me change 727-01-01 to 302b 38fd 10d0. Seems to open all speakers up to full range.
 
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If you have a b&o and want to try a different config that works for me change 727-01-01 to 302b 38fd 10d0. Seems to open all speakers up to full range.
What is the -02 settings you have? My OE is 0900 000D 0047
 

Bacchanalia

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I'm using 12 CHANNEL AMP W/DSP and ZEN AUDIO DSP6A-A2B on my B&O system and completely disconnected the factory amp. It was professionally installed, but I was wondering if this mod will have any impact on sound quality? It sounds good now...just curious. Thanks!
 

gaaangs

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Maybe someone can help me here...

I have the 7 speaker system and replaced all the speakers with Kicker KS and the "ghost" sub with a kicker 6 incher. I also have the kicker key for the front 4 speakers.

I got the sub working via changing line 727-01-01. This is the only change I have done in forescan.

My question is this - is it worth sending full range/power back to the upgraded 4 inch pod speakers and getting bass blockers for them? What is the code change to enable full power to the pods AND still make sure my sub stays activated?
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