Front lockers, aftermarket? Disco bar?

[LandCruiser]

I would think that a front locker might be more useful with IFS, since there's probably a greater chance you'll have a front tire off the ground due to less articulation than a solid axle...

My takeaway is you’re just gonna put yourself into a position where you are more likely to nuke your front CV axles.

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[Rocketeer Rick]

My takeaway is you’re just gonna put yourself into a position where you are more likely to nuke your front CV axles.

I won't deny that's also a possibility...

 

[Dajosh]

One should always carry mechanics gloves and coveralls with the tools.
Never know when someone needs help.

The $12k spread from 2D Base to Badlands is a little wide for some of us.

We still do carry those things with us when we NEED to get dirty. Some of us have just spent enough years in the mud that any chance to avoid it is nice.

 

[North7]

I've done some homework on the factory hydraulic swaybar. As it is a concealed unit (hydraulically speaking), I believe it can be retrofitted to a Bronco fairly easily. I'll probably order one as soon as I take delivery of my truck (base manual sasquatch) and develop the necessary electronic controller for it. Should be simple. I imagine that swaybar from Ford (as a replacement part) isn't cheap though!

This thread has a full technical description of the Bronco disconnect.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...er-bar-disconnect-technical-information.5659/

 

[brunjc2]

This thread has a full technical description of the Bronco disconnect.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...er-bar-disconnect-technical-information.5659/

Thanks! Yeah I sent the supplier an email and got no response. But I imagine it will be easy to drive the valves of the hydraulic component easily, and grab some data from CAN bus (4wd Lo engaged, speed under 15mph etc) and switch connect/disconnect modes.
So you could have a Sasquatch base and still have the OEM hydro disconnect from the BL.

 

[2Jeeps&PatriotX1]

One should always carry mechanics gloves and coveralls with the tools.
Never know when someone needs help.

The $12k spread from 2D Base to Badlands is a little wide for some of us.

Oh I do carry gloves and every tool needed for my jeep. The biggest issue with jks discos is reconnecting them when you cant find level ground.

i’ll take my antirock system any day of the week over the JKS discos.

 

[North7]

Oh I do carry gloves and every tool needed for my jeep. The biggest issue with jks discos is reconnecting them when you cant find level ground.

i’ll take my antirock system any day of the week over the JKS discos.

New to me, I found this, how do you disconnect and reconnect them?

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/antirock-sway-bars-3

 

[brunjc2]

New to me, I found this, how do you disconnect and reconnect them?

https://www.rockjock4x4.com/antirock-sway-bars-3

Looks as though its just a softer sway bar that isn't meant to be disconnected during use.

 

[North7]

Looks as though its just a softer sway bar that isn't meant to be disconnected during use.

Thanks, in looking at an example:
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/ce-9900jlf

I noticed this caution:

Body Roll

- Antirock sway bar equipped vehicles will exhibit more body roll than vehicles equipped with the stock sway bar. Antirock sway bars may be used on the street, however, they do not provide the same handling characteristics as the stock sway bar

So for those of us using our Bronco's for a 95% daily driver, this may not be the best choice.

 

[brunjc2]

Thanks, in looking at an example:
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/ce-9900jlf

I noticed this caution:

So for those of us using our Bronco's for a 95% daily driver, this may not be the best choice.

Well with the huge caveat of I haven't driven a production version Bronco yet, I would agree with you.

An anti-sway bar is just another spring in the suspension, but instead it being between a wheel and the frame, it is between two wheels. All it is is a torsion spring like you'd find on earlier 4xd IFS rigs, same idea. The wheels try to "twist" the bar, and as the Currie video points out, different lengths/diameters permit more twist than others.

After reading some of the Bronco II stability issues and legal dilemma, I am fairly certain this is a main reason why we're seeing this "no roof rack on Sasquatch 4 Doors" yet because they're still working on chassis tuning. That's just my guess though.

 

[2Jeeps&PatriotX1]

Thanks, in looking at an example:
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/ce-9900jlf

I noticed this caution:

So for those of us using our Bronco's for a 95% daily driver, this may not be the best choice.

I DD my jeep (including highway speeds of 75mph) and have put 70k miles on it since installing my antirock. There are different levels of adjustment to it, but you dont remove it and I have found 0 advantage to being totally disconnected vs running my antirock, the antirock gives you just as much travel/flex as being totally disconnected.

now I have no idea if this will be offered for Ford’s setup or not.

 

[Rocketeer Rick]

To say that a sway bar is "just another spring in the suspension" is a little misleading. Yes, the are springs and they are in the suspension. But that statement ignores the fact that their job is entirely different than the other (coil) springs.

The coil (or leaf as appropriate) springs' primary job is to support the weight of the vehicle and its payload while allowing suspension compliance. In doing so, it does influence the roll stiffness of the suspension, but that is secondary.

OTOH, the only job that a sway bar performs is to adjust the roll stiffness. The torsion of the sway bar only acts between the left and right sides when they are traveling in opposite directions; when they go up or down together, the bar has no influence. So they are used to allow changes to the roll stiffness without effecting the actual spring rates and load carrying of the suspension. That allows designers to set the load carrying, then adjust the roll stiffness later.

Roll stiffness is important because it relates directly to how the suspension reacts as it loaded into a turn and how weight is shifted from side to side. The balance between front roll stiffness and rear roll stiffness, in turn, directly influence whether the vehicle tends to understeer or oversteer. Increasing the front roll stiffness or reducing the rear roll stiffness will make the vehicle tend more toward understeer, where the front end wants to push out straight in a turn. Reducing the front or increasing the rear will make it lean more to oversteer, where it wants to fishtail.

This is why using a reduced diameter or "softer" bar in the front can change the way the car handles. It will make it less understeery. Some folks might consider that more "fun", but that's because it also makes it less directionally stable. OEMs default more to understeer because it is inherently more stable and thus safe. Understeer is like setting a tennis ball in a bowl. If you push it up one side, it will always recenter itself back to the middle. Oversteer is more like flipping the bowl over and setting the ball on top of it. You might get it balanced just right so it stays in the middle, but wants to roll off the side when disturbed.

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