Full Range to rear speakers

[akturbo]

Thanks for the definitive advice on upgrading the B&O. Wasn't sure focals would fit, so I was leaning toward kickers instead. Two questions:

1) Any concerns re: the RMS/Peak RMS on these being too low (particularly on the 4")? I have no idea what's running to them.
2) Did you splice the 4", or find a usable harness? I've seen mixed opinions on what to use throughout several posts on the subject.

Sorry, all the speakers just arrived in the mail today and the bass blockers show up Friday. I've only completed the sub replacement with the Kicker, that did make a difference. These Focals should fit with no issue, I originally wanted JL Audio but someone had posted the rear didn't fit.

I bought these based on how the RCXs sounded on the sound comparison on Crutchfield (ACX wasn't available), listened to just about all the 4" and 6.5", JL would have been top pick but the rear fit and the expensive 6.5 components drew me to Focal. Right or wrong, it will be better than stock! I have amps on a shelf, no desire to go that route for now.

Not worried about the Focal ratings since I'm past the days of making my ears bleed.

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[Migs1313]

Sorry, all the speakers just arrived in the mail today and the bass blockers show up Friday. I've only completed the sub replacement with the Kicker, that did make a difference. These Focals should fit with no issue, I originally wanted JL Audio but someone had posted the rear didn't fit.

I bought these based on how the RCXs sounded on the sound comparison on Crutchfield (ACX wasn't available), listened to just about all the 4" and 6.5", JL would have been top pick but the rear fit and the expensive 6.5 components drew me to Focal. Right or wrong, it will be better than stock! I have amps on a shelf, no desire to go that route for now.

Not worried about the Focal ratings since I'm past the days of making my ears bleed.

What model kicker sub did you use? I am in the middle of replacing all the B&O speakers did all the 4 inch and moved one of the dash board speakers the the center speaker. Still have to replace the 6.5 speakers and add under seat sub just ran out of time but replacing the 4 inch ones made a sound difference in clarity

 

[akturbo]

What model kicker sub did you use? I am in the middle of replacing all the B&O speakers did all the 4 inch and moved one of the dash board speakers the the center speaker. Still have to replace the 6.5 speakers and add under seat sub just ran out of time but replacing the 4 inch ones made a sound difference in clarity

You need a 4 ohm dual voice coil sub, max 4" depth, https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-impedance.37889/ Kicker 44CWCD84 CompC 8 Inch 4 Ohm 200 Watt RMS Power and 400 Watts Peak Power Dual Voice Coil Car Audio Sub Subwoofer, Black

I had to cut the upper left bump out, re-shapped with some KYDEX moldable plastic and sealed with silicon that dries clear. Working on round 3 to eliminate rattles. Lots of info here, https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/b-o-sub-installed-on-base-bronco-…-sorta….37207/, Ksjrb03 shared a bunch of info as well.

 

[Broncoder]

Not worried about the Focal ratings since I'm past the days of making my ears bleed.

As am I. I just want something I can hear with the top off. Was concerned about them not handling whatever the B&O was throwing at them and blowing. Maybe I should read up more on what the RMS means.

 

[toolfan26]

Sorry, all the speakers just arrived in the mail today and the bass blockers show up Friday. I've only completed the sub replacement with the Kicker, that did make a difference. These Focals should fit with no issue, I originally wanted JL Audio but someone had posted the rear didn't fit.

I bought these based on how the RCXs sounded on the sound comparison on Crutchfield (ACX wasn't available), listened to just about all the 4" and 6.5", JL would have been top pick but the rear fit and the expensive 6.5 components drew me to Focal. Right or wrong, it will be better than stock! I have amps on a shelf, no desire to go that route for now.

Not worried about the Focal ratings since I'm past the days of making my ears bleed.

I had the JL C2-400x put in front and rear. Also had Apline R-S65.2 put in the kick panels. Technician had it all done in 90 minutes and didn't say a thing about the fit of the rears.

 

[toolfan26]

Don’t confuse the base system with the B&O. Base needs flash, B&O is tuned different. I have the same ACXs back there, and I have a full sound stage now. Swap em. Don’t forget the center channel ad well, the rear pods and the center are the most drastic difference after swap.

What did you find to replace the center?

 

[Ksjrb03]

What did you find to replace the center?

It’s just another 4” speaker.

 

[akturbo]

As am I. I just want something I can hear with the top off. Was concerned about them not handling whatever the B&O was throwing at them and blowing. Maybe I should read up more on what the RMS means.

I see, you'll just have to listen to how the speakers are reacting, or go for a higher power speaker.

I had the JL C2-400x put in front and rear. Also had Apline R-S65.2 put in the kick panels. Technician had it all done in 90 minutes and didn't say a thing about the fit of the rears.

Looks like it was C1-400x that didn't fit, tweeter sticks out too far, I was too cheap to buy 3 pairs of the C2's (doubled the cost).

 

[xusarmy]

No idea how to do that with FDRS.

@flip we can teach you ;-) Get a laptop, and also a forescan adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and go!!

 

[flip]

@flip we can teach you ;-) Get a laptop, and also a forescan adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081VQVD3F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and go!!

One of the techs has Forscan we've been using for speedo/tire size changes. I just don't know what specific PIDs you are looking for.

 

[Brock9281]

What should I try and ask dealer to perform on Bronco with stock speakers, not B&O? Flash or Forscan? Will tell them I’ll be installing soundbar so need it performed…although I won’t be installing soundbar

 

[Jabberwock]

I just finished installing a full system in a Big Bend with mid package, base audio and thought I would chime in with my experience.

Stock speakers were replaced with the following-

Kick- Focal PS165V Expert 6.5in components with A-pillar mounted tweeters. (Yes you can mount tweeters on the A-pillars, even with airbags, if you are careful.)

Dash- Focal 4in poly glass taken from a component set minus the tweeters.

Rear- Focal 4in coaxial

Sub- Polk 10in

AudioControl DQ-61

Amps- Focal four channel powering the dash and kick speakers, and two old amps I've been using for 20 years- an old American made Pioneer (late 90's) for the rears, and an old Sony back from when when they were still made in Japan (also late 90's) for the sub. I don't think amps made today will still be working in 20 years...

After completing the install and setting input/output levels and setting amp gains I wasn't getting the bass I should have been from the sub. The DQ-61 utilizes the rear speaker signal to provide a separate sub output. As others have noted, the base system sends a high pass filtered signal to the rears, which was effecting my subs bass performance. (And the new rear speakers.)
I did some digging in the forum and found several threads (including this one) that mention potential changes in ForScan that may provide a solution. Most threads seem to point to ACM 727-01-02. As built, my first four digits were 0901. I changed this to 0900 and after making some adjustments to the DQ-61 and the sub amps gain (downward in both cases), to my relief found the sub finally putting out the kind of bass I was expecting, as well as improvement in the rears receiving a full range signal.

This seems to be the most verifiable test that I've come across to show that indeed, making the above change does in fact result in a full range signal to the rear speakers. Hopefully this will save some other folks the headache of trying to figure out what is going on with their system when installing new rear speakers or a high level converter.

One other thing I thought I would mention that is helpful to know if you are installing a high level converter- the AudioControl model I used does not provide enough load on the speaker outputs, and the head unit senses this as no speakers being present, and therefore will not put out a signal. Resistors (20ohm are working for me) or an AudioControl resistor module is necessary. An interesting thing I found though, the rears don't require a load to put out a signal, only the fronts. In fact I initially spent over an hour trying to figure out why my rear speakers weren't working after wiring in the resistor module just like the front. Not until I took the module out and ran the high level signal for the rears directly into the DQ-61 did I get sound from the rears.

Hopefully my findings are useful to someone else making upgrades to their system. This is my first Ford so it's been a learning experience for me...

 

[Ground_zero298]

Just did my 22. First line to 3800 second from 0901 to 900. Worked on mine. Thanks you!

 

[mikec426]

I'm not sure what exactly that means, but I understand the result. Just got my cable in today. Tomorrow I'll be tweaking a few things. After reading some stuff on FORScan and watching a few videos.

 

[HereInOhio]

Maybe someone already knows this or it is so simple it goes without saying but I didn't see anything clearly explain what is actually being programed and what each option means for the speakers?

Specifically what speakers you are programming:

727-01-01 XX*X-XXXX-XX = Front Satellite Speakers / Speaker 1 Output
727-01-01 XXX*-XXXX-XX = Speaker 2 Output / Speaker 6 Center Output

Front Satellite Speakers -Dash speakers??
Speaker 1 Output - Would this be the front and 2 is the back -or- right and left?
Speaker 2 Output
Speaker 6 Center Output - Sub or power bar?


After figuring out the locations it would seem simple enough to pick what you want if you knew what each option did. If you know what these options actually do please fill us in.

Front Satellite Speaker (FSS) Options:
Internal Amplifier - Guessing full power or range from the factory.
Reserved - Guessing limited power or limited range from the factory; maybe both?
Disabled - No sure why but this would make you believe you don't want any dash speakers.

Speaker 1 Output (Also Speaker 2 Output since it's the same) Options:
SO Non-Tweeter only
SO Tweeter Only
SO Speaker and Tweeter
SO No Speaker Connected

Based on just the options for the above and below it seems like the "No Speaker" is obvious, no power and completely restricted (off). This would make me believe the "Tweeter Only" would be restricted power and high Hz Eq range. Following the same thought process the "Non-Tweeter Only" would be full power but low Hz Eq range. The Speaker and Tweeter would be full power and full range. I have absolutely no clue if this is even remotely accurate and just guessing off process of elimination.


Speaker 6 Center Output Options:
SCO Non-Tweeter Only
SCO Tweeter Only
SCO Speaker and Tweeter
SCO No Speaker Connected

Above, I'm wondering what SCO is. I was thinking this is for the sub but why would the options have the tweeter as a selection unless this is just their way of saying what range (Hz) you want to allow.

It would be nice to let everyone know what they are actually controlling.

Thanks in advance for any input!

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