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SlvrSurfRidr

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upgraded all 4 4" speakers today, big difference imo.

forscan tomorrow, going with 3800 code.

on the fence for the 6.5s. look like a pia.

next will be a key 200.4 and sub. while im in there autostop.

this thread is great.
Totally agree, simply swapping out the four 4" cleans things up immensely. Which specific speakers did you go with?

I did the Infinity Reference REF-4032cfx, great speaker IMHO, but if you plan to run with the roof/windows down the amp is a good move (I have mine waiting to go in). Volume is good up till about 16, then the head unit can't push hard enough to keep up. However, If you're just gonna be mall hopping around town that is probably plenty of volume without the amp (and cost association).
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F OR D

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Totally agree, simply swapping out the four 4" cleans things up immensely. Which specific speakers did you go with?

I did the Infinity Reference REF-4032cfx, great speaker IMHO, but if you plan to run with the roof/windows down the amp is a good move (I have mine waiting to go in). Volume is good up till about 16, then the head unit can't push hard enough to keep up. However, If you're just gonna be mall hopping around town that is probably plenty of volume without the amp (and cost association).
polk db402. sound great but the fit is a little strange and short to the bolt. wanted the water resistant option, caught in the rain once already. haven't had a ride without the top of yet.

definitely doing:
  • pnp kit
  • kicker 200.4 amp
  • sub and amp - really thinking about a 8 or 10 kicker hideaway. i'm not a basehead but this thing literally has nothing. seems like a nice, small compromise. no replacement for displacement but also no room for boom.
on the fence:
  • forscan - going to do but varying reports of effectiveness, and if you should use 3800/3801
  • 6.5 kickpanels - also back and forth on how much improvement, and if i add an amp/sub+amp is it worth the trouble
skipped:
  • base blockers
  • sound insulation. etc.
 

F OR D

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forscan 3800 changed nothing. just to make sure i wasn't crazy i swapped back and forth once more. i left it, will see if it helps once the 200.4 is installed.
 

Kameronatm

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Does the sound bar flash make the rear base speakers sound like the front speakers? I've read and reread so many threads, but I don't see a definitive answer. Also, the Forscan changes are completely than the sound bar flash, right? I've done the Forscan codes and not a lot changed. Thanks.
I failed to make a before and after video to test it but I don’t think it made a massive difference.
 
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Actually I did the second line changing from 0901 to 0900 disabling occupancy mode. 727-01-02 from 0901 to 0900. Rear sound much louder. Got some JL 4” speakers I will be installing this weekend. I think there is debate on which line to change. I went with JediMcMuffins approach. Anyone think it’s better to adjust line 1 only?

By the way I have a 2 DR Black Diamond SAS with 6 Speaker standard system 8" screen.
I changed the fist line to 3800. Did absolutely nothing
 

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Ground_zero298

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I changed the fist line to 3800. Did absolutely nothing
I had to do both. the 3800 and 0900 for mine to work. If doing a amp, pull signal off the kicks, won't need to use forscan.
 
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I had to do both. the 3800 and 0900 for mine to work. If doing a amp, pull signal off the kicks, won't need to use forscan.
0900 definitely worked. I previously changed all 6 speakers to Kicker CSCs. After I changed to the 0900 code I have full range in rear. I changed the first line back to as-built. Still need to add a sub though.
 

Ground_zero298

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0900 definitely worked. I previously changed all 6 speakers to Kicker CSCs. After I changed to the 0900 code I have full range in rear. I changed the first line back to as-built. Still need to add a sub though.
Nice! I know they’re were some differences between the 21 and 22’s for the Forscan audio plus the need for the beta software.
 

mikec426

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What’s this beta software? Maybe that’s what I need for my ‘22 since I didn’t notice much change.
 

22OBX

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I tried both lines with stock speaker, really no major change. I’ll be using a LCi7 which channel summing to get the full range to the back.
 

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I tried both lines with stock speaker, really no major change. I’ll be using a LCi7 which channel summing to get the full range to the back.
Are the folks that reported the programming worked, was it after you installed new rear speakers?
 

carrellslake

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Are the folks that reported the programming worked, was it after you installed new rear speakers?
I installed different rear speakers over the weekend in my 22. Changing 382B to 3800 made no difference. Changing 0901 to 0900 definitely added some bass. It’s not world changing given that they’re only 4 inch speakers, but it is noticeable.
 

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I installed different rear speakers over the weekend in my 22. Changing 382B to 3800 made no difference. Changing 0901 to 0900 definitely added some bass. It’s not world changing given that they’re only 4 inch speakers, but it is noticeable.
Agree. I can say with high confidence Forscan ACM changes are not removing the high pass filter from the stock head unit. The only viable solutions

1. If you want a full range to the rear is to run through a line converter that will channel sum the signal from all inputs and out out a full range signal. You will need at least 1 amplifier to go this route. I am researching if it is possible to channel sum and not loose the ability to fade front to rear and if you can, most like will need a 3rd piece of hardware.

2. Possible the JBL flash removes the high pass if you have a dealer willing to do it without the sound bar and if it will take without the sound bar.

0727-01-01 hex changes amp/line level and speaker output configurations. Also has settings for antenna, piped engine noise (setting is off for Bronco) and some chime and usb setting

0727-01-02 hex changes the equalizer, and that may improve sound slightly but if the HPF is in play, there will be no improvement to the low to midrange to the rear. You may play with 9 different internal EQ settings and some of the settings may sound slightly louder or better but to you but will not open up the full range. You can also turn off occupancy mode.

It’s possible there is some setting in the APIM or Sync module that it may be flashing, but it is definitely not in the ACM. I think we can close the book on Forscan 727-01-01 and 727-01-02 being able to open full range to the back.
 

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It can be done.

I buckled down and bought the sound bar that Ford is pushing (the JBL BB4000). It looks to be plug-n-play out of the box, because it uses the same connectors as the factory rear speakers. But, once you buy it, the installation instructions tell you to take it to the dealer after installing, so that the computer can be "flashed" to accept the sound bar.

I connected it up anyway without flashing it, and it sounded just like the factory rear speakers - high end unimpressive sound. I then took it to the dealer who "flashed" it for free. Then it performed like you would expect the sound bar to sound - full range and full of great sound.

Curious about this "flashing" business - just for kicks - I unplugged the sound bar and plugged back in the factory speakers I had removed - and viola - full sound range from the little factory speaker pods.

I don't know why it comes from the factory with limited rear speakers that way - but clearly it is intentionally limited.

To "flash" the audio, the sound bar instructions say you must have the FDRS software ACM (audio control module) to perform the "Audio Front Control
Module (ACM) Software Update." The trick then is - find out how to do that (or get the dealer to do the flash) without buying the sound bar.

The good thing is that I was able to tap into the rear speakers (instead of running wires all the way up to the front kick panel speakers) to add my subwoofer.

With the sound bar I've got the range all around and with a sub I'm done.

STILL - I wonder if I would have needed the sound bar if I could just broaden the range of the rear speaker pods.

Anyway - if this hasn't been posted before (I didn't find it - sorry if this is a repeat)- there's the answer.
I called my service department and the advisor I spoke to had zero clue about flashing for sound bar. Maybe he’s playing stupid because they want you to buy the sound bar? I’ll try another local dealership
 
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I spoke to my salesman when I bought the sound bar. Before that he didn't know anything about it. I gave him the paperwork that came with the sound bar that spells out exactly what the dealer has to do to flash it using the Ford service department software. The service department asked for a copy of it so they could follow it. But that was early on. I expect more dealership service departments know about it now.
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