Fuse Taps - questions on install

[Bonnie6G]

I’m about to install a few items - a Brandmotion camera mirror and a GMRS radio. The mirror (5A 12V tap) comes with the needed fuse taps and I figured that taps might be a good way to go to power my GMRS radio (15A 12V tap) because I want it tied to ACC, not direct to the battery. I’m looking to source a tap for the radio as well. So far I have a few questions.
1 - Both of these items have different amp/voltage requirements. Am I ok to put the taps in any slot that has an equal or higher amp rated fuse and can a pigtail “rated” to 12V be ok to cover the radio that could potentially pull up to 32V as long as the proper amp fuse is used (operates normally in the 12V range)? Or should I try to find a 32V tap with a 15amp fuse?

2 - which direction do the taps need to be inserted into the fuse box? I assume the current follows this diagram:

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[Theherofails]

The radio will never pull more voltage than what your car battery puts out (13-14v max). It'll take more current(amps) to make up the difference in volts.

Power = volts * amps.

Just use the correct sized fuses (correct amp rating) per the manual. The slots depend on the exact tap you use, but your diagram is correct for the ones I use.

You'll only have a few options for where to put them. The tricky one is the accesory power. I think I used the fuse slot for the infotainment. Only one fuse in the entire fuse box works as an accessory tap point. A few could work but don't power down right away - the Bronco takes a solid 30-40 minutes to go completely asleep.

 

[Bonnie6G]

The radio will never pull more voltage than what your car battery puts out (13-14v max). It'll take more current(amps) to make up the difference in volts.

Power = volts * amps.

Just use the correct sized fuses (correct amp rating) per the manual. The slots depend on the exact tap you use, but your diagram is correct for the ones I use.

You'll only have a few options for where to put them. The tricky one is the accesory power. I think I used the fuse slot for the infotainment. Only one fuse in the entire fuse box works as an accessory tap point. A few could work but don't power down right away - the Bronco takes a solid 30-40 minutes to go completely asleep.

Thanks. That’s what I was thinking was the case. I’m open to tapping in to other power sources if you have any suggestions. I don’t necessarily care about it it taking 30-40 mins to power down, as long as it does eventually power down with the rest of the vehicle.

 

[Theherofails]

Thanks. That’s what I was thinking was the case. I’m open to tapping in to other power sources if you have any suggestions. I don’t necessarily care about it it taking 30-40 mins to power down, as long as it does eventually power down with the rest of the vehicle.

I can look tomorrow and see for sure the exact tap placement I used for my dash cam set up. I'm a tad drunk tonight. I'm a light weight.

 

[Bonnie6G]

I can look tomorrow and see for sure the exact tap placement I used for my dash cam set up. I'm a tad drunk tonight. I'm a light weight.

Lol! I’m right there with you. Cheers, mate!

 

[Hemisfear]

 

[Bonnie6G]

Thanks, I do have those instructions for the mirror, but I’m wondering about the radio power. I’d prefer not to overload a single fuse for three items.

 

[Bonnie6G]

Followup question, do the aux switch wires turn off after 30mins or do they remain hot until you flip the switch to “off”

Edit: nevermind, found this answer in another thread. All aux lines from the distribution box are wired to ACC, however it seems to be possible to re-wire it so that Aux 5&6 are always hot or Aux 1-4 are always hot if one wanted to.

 

[Theherofails]

Sorry - busy day.

For Badlands Sas Lux with 2.7 etc, I'm doing fuse slot 34 for accessory and 36 for constant power.

I mention the trim because I'm not sure if it changes based on equipment.

The accesory turns off with the key instantly. Perfect for most situations.

When I did my 360 degree camera setup, I tested all of the fuses to see which were constant power and which were accessory. I don't recall finding any other solid options for accessory.

 

[Theherofails]

Oh, you can also see the visible fuses are both 5amp, which are the secondary fuses for my fuse taps. The fuse that was in the slot originally is in the first slot of the fuse tap.

Hopefully that makes sense.

 

[Bonnie6G]

Oh, you can also see the visible fuses are both 5amp, which are the secondary fuses for my fuse taps. The fuse that was in the slot originally is in the first slot of the fuse tap.

Hopefully that makes sense.

Yep for sure, thanks. I see you have each of your taps installed in different directions. Any concerns with actual fuse protection depending on current flow direction?

 

[Theherofails]

Yep for sure, thanks. I see you have each of your taps installed in different directions. Any concerns with actual fuse protection depending on current flow direction?

They're both installed correctly but I had to flip the bottom fuse tap to fit. There is a lip on the bottom of the fuse box that gets in the way of a fuse tap facing downwards. I had to modify it a tad to go downwards because of that lip. That'll depend on your exact fuse tap. I just gently bent the legs of the fuse tap about 15 degrees.



Nah. If anything happened, the 5amp fuse would blow right away and my equipment would be protected. The main fuse for slot 34 should be a 30amp if I recall and it powers the entire audio and infotainment systems. I've had this set up since October of last year and it's worked flawlessly.

Fuses don't care about current flow. It's just a wire with the proper thickness to melt over a certain amp load.

 

[Eric A]

They're both installed correctly but I had to flip the bottom fuse tap to fit. There is a lip on the bottom of the fuse box that gets in the way of a fuse tap facing downwards. I had to modify it a tad to go downwards because of that lip. That'll depend on your exact fuse tap. I just gently bent the legs of the fuse tap about 15 degrees.



Nah. If anything happened, the 5amp fuse would blow right away and my equipment would be protected. The main fuse for slot 34 should be a 30amp if I recall and it powers the entire audio and infotainment systems. I've had this set up since October of last year and it's worked flawlessly.

Fuses don't care about current flow. It's just a wire with the proper thickness to melt over a certain amp load.

Theherofails, I stumbled across this thread looking for an answer to the correct way to hardwire power to a dsh cam as I don't want to use the 12V (cigarette adapter) in the center console or rear.

If I am understanding your explanatin and pictures, I can use slot 34 and the cam will be powered only when the car is turned on, and if I use slot 36 it will be powered all the time? I also have a Badlands, SAS, lux.

This is the hardwire kit I will be using: (for a Vantrue X4S duo)

https://www.amazon.com/Vantrue-12V-...0&sprefix=vantrue+hardwire+kit,aps,187&sr=8-4

 

[Theherofails]

Theherofails, I stumbled across this thread looking for an answer to the correct way to hardwire power to a dsh cam as I don't want to use the 12V (cigarette adapter) in the center console or rear.

If I am understanding your explanatin and pictures, I can use slot 34 and the cam will be powered only when the car is turned on, and if I use slot 36 it will be powered all the time? I also have a Badlands, SAS, lux.

This is the hardwire kit I will be using: (for a Vantrue X4S duo)

https://www.amazon.com/Vantrue-12V-...0&sprefix=vantrue+hardwire+kit,aps,187&sr=8-4

Yep. And some cameras need both power and accessory power to detect when you leave the car so parking mode can be enabled automatically.

 

[Eric A]

Yep. And some cameras need both power and accessory power to detect when you leave the car so parking mode can be enabled automatically.

Thanks man, I appreciate it. I'm not sure about the mine needing both aas the hardwire kit only has 1 fuse tap. I am assuming it's either, or in my case. The hardwire kit says thison it's web site:

• 24/7 Parking Surveillance without draining the battery】Directly to the battery for constant 24hrs/7days power to protect against theft when your car is in the parking lot. With the smart low voltage protection, it will automatically shut off the power to your dash cam when the battery voltage drops to 11.6V or 23.2V, thus preventing it draining the battery. Note: If your car requires a start voltage higher than 11.6V for 24 hours parking mode, this hardwire kit may not work for your car.
• 【Power Supply】Directly to the ignition wire for power only so it can turn on and off with the ignition and you don't have to worry about plugging in the charger, or turning the dashcam on, or any such stuff.

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