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Get Badlands or go with lower trim + aftermarket parts?

Chadillac

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I’m leaning badlands because I want M/T with lockers and vinyl interior. I would honestly be happy if I could at least get vinyl on base model even without lockers.
 

Corsair

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I’m leaning badlands because I want M/T with lockers and vinyl interior. I would honestly be happy if I could at least get vinyl on base model even without lockers.
You get those on Black Diamond for less money.
 
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MadMan4BamaNATL

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I like this question and topic, but do want to caution that it is far more involved than it seems.

The base Bronco doesn't look to be a Wrangler Sport as far as capability is concerned, so the total cost of building from Base is going to cost you more than just getting the Badlands unless you start cutting corners.

Lots of guys here on the forum will do a lot of talking, but very few who do have ever built a rig. There is also a reason why you normally don't build your own using a new purchased vehicle. You mostly want to go used and under $15K for your rig. #1 You're going to burn your warranties which isn't a smart idea. #2 the costs will give a lot of sticker shock unless you've done this before and/or do all of your own wrenching with a buddy. I'm talking around $17K to make a base exceed a Badlands. YES, I did just type that. I've seen kits for a new Rubicon that average between $12K-$15K and most of those miss a few areas in need of upgrade, usually in the interior.

Also remember that Badlands gets you the GOAT modes. Sure, there are some purists who will balk at that, but I will argue that a purist wouldn't even want the new Bronco.

Starting with suspension, for a set up including a 2" lift from a good maker (Fox, Bilstein, Falcon, Skyjacker, ICON) in a stage 2 configuration, add $4000; that's just parts. This will be mid grade. 3-4" lift so you can fit 37" or 40", add another $2000 or more. I am not including front and rear lockers here, add around $1200 maybe more (I've never had to add lockers, always came with) Yes you need lockers to wheel.

Wheels and 37" tires (pick your favorites here, I'm BFG all day) Add another $2800 at least.

Armor will cost around $2500-$4000 (Sliders, belly skids, rear diff cover) Steel Bumpers for front and back are another $1700, again, just parts.

Base comes with shit lights, so you should upgrade the headlights, but if you go straight to quality LED bars from KC, Rigid, etc, add another $1500. This is front amber, spread and beam, rear amber.

Roof rack and a winch should always be included if you plan to wheel. Not having a winch is just stupid if you're going to take even moderate trails or if you ever go near mud. Warn is of course where you should set as a baseline, but lots of guys swear by Smitty (to each his own), a winch plate is necessary also. Add $1400 - $3500 (Warn).

Do the math. Sure, you can ensure you get exactly what you want, so if you own a shop, wrench skills are good, an experienced wheeler, not your first build, or have money to burn to make it yours from day one while you pay a car note, knock yourself out. However, if you just think that building your own rig "sounds" cool, don't. Not on this new vehicle. The cost, the work, the risks, are just a gamble.

Not trying to discourage, just want to see people go in eyes wide open.

My advice, get everything you can from the factory offered upgrades, then focus your extra money on gear for your interior, or adding a good compressor that you'll run off a second battery set up, and a good fridge and storage system to keep your shit from flying all over the rig and hitting you in the head.

Is all of this necessary, no, but if you really want to build your own crawler, or off road spec rig, there are no short cuts that won't leave you stuck n fuked on a trail.

Happy wheeling!!! ?
 
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Comadivine11

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@MadMan4BamaNATL Thanks for the detailed response! I have neither the tools nor experience to do even half of what you described, haha. I think I'll go ahead and roll with a Badlands and add a few of the things not included like a winch and air compressor. Thanks again.
 

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MadMan4BamaNATL

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@MadMan4BamaNATL Thanks for the detailed response! I have neither the tools nor experience to do even half of what you described, haha. I think I'll go ahead and roll with a Badlands and add a few of the things not included like a winch and air compressor. Thanks again.
Awesome man, just trying to help with the full picture.

You'll likely build as you go. I plan to add mods as my Bronco ages, then incorporate more rock crawling.

Once you take your rig camping and run a few light trails, you'll see if this is something you really wish to commit to and how much. There is no judgement either way. I just hope you have some fun out there.

I figure once I get the Bronco paid off, I'll spend the next 2 years adding about $5K-$7K in suspension mods and new bigger tires and wheels. May also add a snorkel too.

Good luck and hope you enjoy the journey of getting your Bronco.
 

bigsky713

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Every time I start accepting that the WildtraK would be a better fit for my needs, I remember that I really want the rubberized floor and vinyl seats. ??‍♂
And.... you can’t get the sway bar disconnects with the wild trek.
I keep going back and forth , but that issue keeps bringing me back to the Bad Lands edition.
 

Chrome_Pony

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What it has is experience from someone who's added aftermarket parts to exceed factory limitations.

Can you make a "Badlands" from the aftermarket?

85% of one, sure.

You will not get the lockers tied into the BCM and the safety constraints that come with that.

You will not get the traction programming GOAT modes.

You can bolt on part after part, but they will not have been crash tested via the NHTSA standards like the OEMs, or put through towing standards trials.

It's not about Ford, it's about the fact that modern vehicles are a lot more than the sum of their parts when it comes to computerization, safety standards and technology. The days when you could completely change a vehicle with bolt-on parts are waning, as OEMs figure out how to capture more market share of what was traditionally aftermarket parts territory. As an example : When's the last time you changed a stereo head unit in a vehicle < 8 years old?
 

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Grave Digger

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Aftermarket suspension companies will Surely "out do" factory suspension and make a much better product not covered under warranty. Look at what "Total Chaos" suspension does for Tacomas. There is a trade off however. You can spend a tremendous amount of cash to void your warranty for killer suspension. As we all saw the articulation/travel of the squatch package seems miniscule. However, the Tacoma is a similar IFS/Solid system but requires aftermarket A-Arms etc and given Killer articulation. This configuration would instantly roll as soon as an 18 year old with a 6 pack on board got ahold a her.

As others have mentioned, Ford is taking the BMW stance with one Very desirarable feature and adding on a bunch of unwanted garbage per "package." If you want a rock crawler/dune blaster you have to build the supension for it, it won't come factory. My first impression is that the Squatch package had a Heavy lawyer hand in it. Ford doesn't need to be sued by 10,000 guys who roll their truck as they lose control over 40 because they don't know how to drive. This offering is essentially an experiment in offering a short wheel based Bronco with 35's. It's built to be "Anti-Roll" and therefore the susp is gonna suck.

I realize this is my opinion and would like to hear others thoughts. The only reason I'd squatch is for 4.7 ratio and 2.7 with tune (I like Power over manual). If you want a manual, throw a tune on the 2.3 and you'll get close to stock 2.7 numbers. The difference in gear ratio is somewhat negligible unless you want 37's. The bottom line will be package cost. The squatch will be plenty for 95% of buyers.

If you don't care about warranty and have somewhat heavy pockets..
Buy a squatch Base (for gearing and beadlock capable/tires) and put Killer aftermarket suspension on it as you'll have the disconnect and gearing to build on. This takes into consideration aftermarket companies that May not initially have a handle on geometries but who cares if you have a ton of cash.

If you have not so heavy pockets go with a BL, non squatch as it will do most of what you need, if not everything as well as better travel, 33's are perfect for street/offroad use. Plan on losing 4-5 MPG with 35's.

Is what I'm more curious about over the actual truck details is what aftermaket parts/ tune, susp lift to fot 37's are. Does anyone know if there is a factory kit for 37's?

Bottom line is the squatch package Limits articulation per the videos I have seen and is mostly just for looks regarding the susp. The non-squatch BL they took on the Rubicon did well and they may have made that decision based of better articulation to say "a non-BL 2D make the Rubi!"

CAN'T WAIT TO SEE MOAB! Let's hear some opinions on above!
 

MadMan4BamaNATL

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Hey, I said it wasn’t all necessary. But if you’re going to buy a brand new car that is a Base stripper, then try to build it to crawler or even just trail spec, while making it look good and with the gear that you hopefully won’t have to buy twice, then yeah, roll it all into your payment for 60 months if it’s available to you.

the Ford PR bit is cute, but no Ford employee here. Just know what it costs to build a capable rig to Badlands level. Didn’t hide a thing in my analysis, so look into the parts yourself and bring a calculator.

Bronco is total profit for Ford, just like a Rubicon is all profit for FCA. Most guys will never use the rig as built for, but that’s their choice.

If someone here says they want it wheel, I want them to go wheeling. But I would like them to do it safely and without going broke.

Damn right we need it! :p
 

MadMan4BamaNATL

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Aftermarket suspension companies will Surely "out do" factory suspension and make a much better product not covered under warranty. Look at what "Total Chaos" suspension does for Tacomas. There is a trade off however. You can spend a tremendous amount of cash to void your warranty for killer suspension. As we all saw the articulation/travel of the squatch package seems miniscule. However, the Tacoma is a similar IFS/Solid system but requires aftermarket A-Arms etc and given Killer articulation. This configuration would instantly roll as soon as an 18 year old with a 6 pack on board got ahold a her.

As others have mentioned, Ford is taking the BMW stance with one Very desirarable feature and adding on a bunch of unwanted garbage per "package." If you want a rock crawler/dune blaster you have to build the supension for it, it won't come factory. My first impression is that the Squatch package had a Heavy lawyer hand in it. Ford doesn't need to be sued by 10,000 guys who roll their truck as they lose control over 40 because they don't know how to drive. This offering is essentially an experiment in offering a short wheel based Bronco with 35's. It's built to be "Anti-Roll" and therefore the susp is gonna suck.

I realize this is my opinion and would like to hear others thoughts. The only reason I'd squatch is for 4.7 ratio and 2.7 with tune (I like Power over manual). If you want a manual, throw a tune on the 2.3 and you'll get close to stock 2.7 numbers. The difference in gear ratio is somewhat negligible unless you want 37's. The bottom line will be package cost. The squatch will be plenty for 95% of buyers.

If you don't care about warranty and have somewhat heavy pockets..
Buy a squatch Base (for gearing and beadlock capable/tires) and put Killer aftermarket suspension on it as you'll have the disconnect and gearing to build on. This takes into consideration aftermarket companies that May not initially have a handle on geometries but who cares if you have a ton of cash.

If you have not so heavy pockets go with a BL, non squatch as it will do most of what you need, if not everything as well as better travel, 33's are perfect for street/offroad use. Plan on losing 4-5 MPG with 35's.

Is what I'm more curious about over the actual truck details is what aftermaket parts/ tune, susp lift to fot 37's are. Does anyone know if there is a factory kit for 37's?

Bottom line is the squatch package Limits articulation per the videos I have seen and is mostly just for looks regarding the susp. The non-squatch BL they took on the Rubicon did well and they may have made that decision based of better articulation to say "a non-BL 2D make the Rubi!"

CAN'T WAIT TO SEE MOAB! Let's hear some opinions on above!
What you're written here is true and no one thinking along these lines should take any of it lightly. For clarification, think you should flesh out what you mean by roll. If I'm following, you're referring to the geometry being off when you lift a vehicle too high and add bigger tires. This throws off center of gravity, and high end IFS tend to be bouncy. This means you need to mod steering and brakes to compensate for balancing, but even then your car wouldn't pass crash tests.

Plus, modding an IFS for lift is expensive as hell. Much more expensive than an SFA. Your approach to any obstacles would be way off, which causes compensations for the new geometry. Doing any of this in your own NEW vehicle is ballsy.

Of course most of us won't use most of the capability of the Badlands even; I know I won't for the first 5 years. Won't stop some guys from building a monster just for show though.

Unless you're a YouTuber with sponsors and free shit, chasing this off road rig dragon is going to cost you. Getting the articulation you mention is an example of overkill for most normal guys here and will get that cost to go wheeling up quickly.
 

Xodric

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Part of the reason I am getting a Badlands is because I believe its the model that will retain it's value a lot more than say the Base, OB, or BD. The FE will obviously be the best value holder. That being said I am going to get all the off-road goodies I can with it from the factory. I'll worry about after market when the warranty is gone, and by that time the after market will be well established.
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