I looped some metal strap over the top of the column. I made a bracket for the radio then secured the bracket to the strap. Zero drilling, but that's not the only way.Thank you very much!! I will give that a go. It seems easier to mount with the molding removed than trying to slip the radio body up from underneath and properly secure it. Did you have to create a metal bracket or just drill into that existing metal plate? I saw a GMRS install on a separate thread where he bridged some existing screws with a metal plate. That spot is in the upper left void under the steering wheel and pedals.
Thanks to the guy that annonimously posted a link to a zip file of the entire service manual! (you can search for it in this forum)...and thank you for the amazing graphics.....very helpful.
I tapped two holes in the metal plate and used metal cabinet L brackets from Home Depot to secure it. Put the L brackets on the radio, position it in the space to make sure you have some room, than mark and tap your holes.Thank you very much!! I will give that a go. It seems easier to mount with the molding removed than trying to slip the radio body up from underneath and properly secure it. Did you have to create a metal bracket or just drill into that existing metal plate? I saw a GMRS install on a separate thread where he bridged some existing screws with a metal plate. That spot is in the upper left void under the steering wheel and pedals.
Looks like you ran the cables along the bottom of the windshield, over to the a-pillar and went down from there towards the door trim -- is that correct?
Thanks! Yes, along the base of the windshield (simply push it under the foam that fills the gap to the dashboard). I couldn't find a passage from there to under the dash, so just ran it around the base of the A pillar. From there I removed the handle and side trim and that gives access under the dash.Love your install! Looks super clean.
I'm wondering about the wire routing for how you setup the head unit and speaker below:
Looks like you ran the cables along the bottom of the windshield, over to the a-pillar and went down from there towards the door trim -- is that correct?
Love the Install 73 ND1CHere's my Ham radio installlation. Antenna and mount are both Larson NMO type. Mount is DIY from scrap stainless. Structure under the accessory mount is grounded to the chassis under the hood with the braided copper, and both sides of the hood are bonded to the chassis with two more copper braids.
Power is directly to the battery, through the available grommet above the main harness. Tests out with zero noise - contact said it was as quiet as a base station.
Control mounted to the dash accesory rail (also DIY) and the base unit under the steering column.
Mic panel mount extension in that pop-out panel above the console.
Antenna SWR trace is nearly perfect.
Thanks!Very nice rig, and thanks for sharing. Particularly nice work on the grounding straps. Agreed, I originally wanted to use one of the aux switches to power the Yaesu but, like you said, they are bundled pretty tightly. And since I plan on mounting other powered accessories I was afraid they might start talking to each other. (Yes, powering directly off the battery is overkill, but I've ridden enough BMW motorcycles to appreciate the peace of mind that over-engineering can bring.) Going to try the BulletPoint rail/mount system for the Yaesu's head, but I do like your picatinny solution. Thanks again for sharing your detailed setup.
Thanks! Yes, along the base of the windshield (simply push it under the foam that fills the gap to the dashboard). I couldn't find a passage from there to under the dash, so just ran it around the base of the A pillar. From there I removed the handle and side trim and that gives access under the dash.
When my windshield was replaced (the 1st of 2...) I was able to evaluate the cable run, and I saw nothing that suggested a better way.
I know I am late to this but we just got our Bronco. How much steering wheel up/down adjustment range is lost? I normally have it full up but my bride typically has it lowered as far as it will go. Thank you for your time.Hey, Dennis. No issues in ~7 months. No tools required - it just pivots down once the clips disengage. The clips are loud, but once you've done it once, it's trivial. In this pic from the service manual, all those purple spots on the back are the clips. I grab just to the left of the column and pull sharply toward the seat (not so much pulling down).
Zero change. The close edge is behind that rubber strip and the panel falls away from the radio from there, leaving plenty of room.I know I am late to this but we just got our Bronco. How much steering wheel up/down adjustment range is lost? I normally have it full up but my bride typically has it lowered as far as it will go. Thank you for your time.
Thanks -appreciate the help.Zero change. The close edge is behind that rubber strip and the panel falls away from the radio from there, leaving plenty of room.