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Help needed with wiring an ARB button to the twin compressor

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Thank you! Is it ok to have 10 and 20 amp at the same time?
Thanks for the reminder. I need to get a smaller fuse (10 amp) in place the 20 which is what came with the fuse tap.
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I have a side question. What is the benefit of moving the hose to the side VS keeping it on the compressor?
I just liked it closer to the fender and switch. A personal preference thing I guess.
 

Ryan at ARB

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Okay so off of the ARB compressor there are two plugs. One is a 5-pin plug. The other is a 2-pin plug. The plug that turns on/off that compressor is that 2-pin plug, and that's what you'll want to connect to a switch.

You'll also have three wiring harnesses. One will have a 5-pin plug with fuses on the other end—that is the power harness that goes to the battery. One will have a 4-pin connector, with connectors taped at the other end that say "Switch 1", "Switch 2", and "Isolation Switch". That is the switch harness... you don't need that harness at all—but you can rob it for parts if you want.

The third wiring harness will have a 2-pin connector, a 4-pin connector that has not been fully terminated yet, and another pair of 2-pin connectors. You only need the purple & black wires, and the 2-pin connector on that harness that goes to the compressor. (If you take off the tape on the harness it should take sense.) Everything else is intended for an air locker setup, can be cut out, and robbed for parts.

Then you have the switches. You obviously only need one of those switches. There are 5 pins on the back of the switches:
  • Pin 2 — Input to the switch
  • Pin 3 — Output of the switch
  • Pin 6 — Backlight (not necessary)
  • Pin 7 — Ground
  • Pin 8 — Ground
Pin 3 of that switch should connect to the purple wire heading to the compressor. Pin 2 of that switch should connect to a 12V power source—that can be the battery, that can be an Aux switch in your Bronco, it could be something in the fuse box, or it can be something else entirely... up to you. Personally, I would connect it to the Aux switches if you have them, if you don't... then I would use an add-a-fuse and connect it to some power source that turns on with the ignition. Pin 7 & 8 should connect the Black wire heading to the compressor.

---

Hopefully that made sense?? Feel free to ask questions. I should mention there is a way to hook it up without cutting up the ARB harnesses, but then you'll have a ton of unconnected cabling related to air lockers that you'll need to figure out where to hide.
This will work but I highly recommend powering the switch (pin 2) with an ignition source and not directly to the battery. Since the compressor has a built-in pressure switch, the unit will shut off on its own when it reaches 150PSI but the fan remains on to keep it cool. It's easy to forget to flip the switch to the off position because you don't hear the compressor running. Often resulting in a drained battery due to the fan.

It looks like you're going to an ignition source but I wanted to clear this up for others that may refer back to this thread.
 
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evgenyvasenev

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This will work but I highly recommend powering the switch (pin 2) with an ignition source and not directly to the battery. Since the compressor has a built-in pressure switch, the unit will shut off on its own when it reaches 150PSI but the fan remains on to keep it cool. It's easy to forget to flip the switch to the off position because you don't hear the compressor running. Often resulting in a drained battery due to the fan.

It looks like you're going to an ignition source but I wanted to clear this up for others that may refer back to this thread.
Does connecting it to the fuse box solve this problem?
 

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evgenyvasenev

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Yes, the AUX is a simple thing, I just want to keep the button near the compressor.
I have a dual ARB in my FJ and I only use it with the engine running, so having the button inside is no big deal as I have turn on/off the vehicle anyway.
 

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Thanks, it helps! Let me summary it:

1. I need to cut the 2 pin harness and connect the purple wire to Pin 3 on the button.
2. I need to create and run a long wire (probably take it from other harness) from Pin 2 to a fuse box (probably take the same 22 spot as in the video).
3. I need to take one black wire from the same 2 pin harness and connect it to 7 or 8

Is it correct?
On the switch you need both 7 and 8 for ground.

If I were to guess one of the grounds is for the switch itself, and the other is for the backlight. So you probably don't really need both... but I don't know which is which. You could probably figure it out with a multimeter, or maybe @Ryan at ARB knows off the top of his head.

I also agree with what Ryan said about wiring the switch... you should connect to a power source that turns on/off with the vehicle ignition. Otherwise you may find yourself with a dead battery someday. I also personally would use the add-a-fuse on some circuit that is not critical of the operation of the vehicle... like the USB ports or one of the accessory power ports. The manual has a list with what all of the fuses are used for.
 
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evgenyvasenev

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On the switch you need both 7 and 8 for ground.

If I were to guess one of the grounds is for the switch itself, and the other is for the backlight. So you probably don't really need both... but I don't know which is which. You could probably figure it out with a multimeter, or maybe @Ryan at ARB knows off the top of his head.

I also agree with what Ryan said about wiring the switch... you should connect to a power source that turns on/off with the vehicle ignition. Otherwise you may find yourself with a dead battery someday. I also personally would use the add-a-fuse on some circuit that is not critical of the operation of the vehicle... like the USB ports or one of the accessory power ports. The manual has a list with what all of the fuses are used for.
Got it, thanks. Speaking of the ground @justinbmcbride said you can use both. Is it not correct?
And as I understand if I connect it to a fuse box I am fine, but sometimes it could work without an engine on, just one push button? It depends on the circuit. Correct?
 

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Got it, thanks. Speaking of the ground @justinbmcbride said you can use both. Is it not correct?
It depends if the grounds are bonded (electrically connected) together, and I don't know the answer to that since I don't have a switch in front of me. But if you have a multimeter you could test to see if they are bonded.

If both pins #7 and #8 (which are the ground pins) are connected internally within the switch then it doesn't matter which pin you use. If Justin said you could either pin #7 or pin #8 then I assume they are indeed bonded. But if they are not electrically connected internally, then the only logical explanation is one ground is for the switch, and the other is for the backlight circuit. In which case you need to figure out which ground is for the switch. OR, just connect both grounds and call it a day.

And as I understand if I connect it to a fuse box I am fine, but sometimes it could work without an engine on, just one push button? It depends on the circuit. Correct?
Yes, it depends which fuse you connect it to.

Some of the circuits in a vehicle operate with or without the ignition on. The lights are a good example of this... if your vehicle is sitting on the road busted you still want to be able to use your hazard lights regardless if the ignition is on or not.

Other circuits are only powered when the vehicle's ignition is on, such as the USB ports, the accessory 12V power ports, and all of the Aux switches. It is probably a good idea to use one of those fuses for your compressor, it'll prevent you from accidentally draining the battery on your vehicle.
 

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evgenyvasenev

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It depends if the grounds are bonded (electrically connected) together, and I don't know the answer to that since I don't have a switch in front of me. But if you have a multimeter you could test to see if they are bonded.

If both pins #7 and #8 (which are the ground pins) are connected internally within the switch then it doesn't matter which pin you use. If Justin said you could either pin #7 or pin #8 then I assume they are indeed bonded. But if they are not electrically connected internally, then the only logical explanation is one ground is for the switch, and the other is for the backlight circuit. In which case you need to figure out which ground is for the switch. OR, just connect both grounds and call it a day.


Yes, it depends which fuse you connect it to.

Some of the circuits in a vehicle operate with or without the ignition on. The lights are a good example of this... if your vehicle is sitting on the road busted you still want to be able to use your hazard lights regardless if the ignition is on or not.

Other circuits are only powered when the vehicle's ignition is on, such as the USB ports, the accessory 12V power ports, and all of the Aux switches. It is probably a good idea to use one of those fuses for your compressor, it'll prevent you from accidentally draining the battery on your vehicle.
By ignition do you mean a running engine or just a key is on? For example the USB works without an engine running and probably it should not be used for a compressor?
 
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evgenyvasenev

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Only if the fuse does not have constant power. A continuity check with a multi-meter will tell you exactly.
Thanks, so the USB fuse could work, right? Or a camera module? Guys connected it to a sway bar disconnect, I think it works too?
 

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Thanks, so the USB fuse could work, right? Or a camera module? Guys connected it to a sway bar disconnect, I think it works too?
I personally wouldn't use the sway-bar disconnect, but it would work. The camera module is a good choice since it isn't critical. One of the auxiliary power points could also work, but those may be powered off of bigger 30 Amp fuses, not sure.

There is a bunch of battery monitoring features that allow accessories to stay powered as long as the battery voltage is above a certain level. I believe the USB ports are part of that battery management system, so they should also work. (I can verify for sure once I get home and look at the wiring diagrams.)
 
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evgenyvasenev

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I personally wouldn't use the sway-bar disconnect, but it would work. The camera module is a good choice since it isn't critical. One of the auxiliary power points could also work, but those may be powered off of bigger 30 Amp fuses, not sure.

There is a bunch of battery monitoring features that allow accessories to stay powered as long as the battery voltage is above a certain level. I believe the USB ports are part of that battery management system, so they should also work. (I can verify for sure once I get home and look at the wiring diagrams.)
Thanks, I would appreciate. For now I think a USB or the camera module are good candidates, but it would be great to get a confirmation from you :)
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