beach vacation!
Great news for you, I saw it as an opportunity for me to see how it's done. Yes still on the beach, home Saturday. I call you then.Looks like physical install today and programming tomorrow! @NORCALGXP I think you will still be on a
Keep us updated, mine should be delivered next week. Thanks
AwesomeHello again Bronco fans! I have good news today. I was correct in my previous post that I recieved a defective rack. I got it's replacement today and installed/programmed it and it works flawlessly w/no error codes in ANY modules! Mine is a 2dr BL 2.3/7mt for reference, and I have only standard options, so my procedure may be complicated by a higher option package, but since @BigMeatsBronco has a fully loaded FE I'm sure workarounds can be had. Here's the simplest procedure I could come up with:
Before you start, connect a battery charger, and make sure the laptop, etc you use for forscan/FDRS is fully charged. If you have installed the new Ford performance tune, or any custom tune, return to stock before starting. If you have recalibrated tire size/gear, return that to original values. Then open forscan and connect to the vehicle as normal. Forscan always asks to save a profile, but this time you really should, and rename it something you will remember...you WILL need it! Once you have done that (WITHOUT disconnecting forscan), unplug your PCM and AWD module. Now go into programming BodyCM in forscan (not asbuilt, just BodyCM configuration). Scroll all the way to the bottom to find three lines labeled VIN. Edit them to change them to the WT 3.0 donor vin we are going to use. Check and double check that all digits are correct, then hit write. Your vehicle is gonna be dinging and bonging and throwing up all kinds of error messages...just ignore. Now if you haven't installed your 3.0 rack yet plug it into the harness, if you went ahead and installed it you are ready for the next step. Close forscan, making sure it has released the J2534 device, and open FDRS. Have FDRS read the vin and make sure it matches your donor vin. I always have to disconnect from the vehicle to get FDRS to download vin info...maybe you won't have that problem, but if you do, just unplug the device from the computer for a second while it downloads, and decodes. Next in toolbox find PSCM>PMI, and download. Plug the J2534 back in (if you had to unplug it before), and run PSCM PMI. Follow the on screen instructions, but when the dialog box asks if the original module is installed select NO. If the application finishes w/no errors you are almost home! PMI should take about 5-10 minutes, but believe me it felt like eternity! Anyhow, on to cleanup...make sure FDRS releases control of the J2534, and close FDRS. Reopen forscan. Forscan will not decode a vehicle w/a disconnected PCM, so when it tells you it can't communicate, it's not really telling you the truth, but that's what it will say, and should open a dialog box and ask you if you want to load a saved profile. Load the one we saved at the beginning. Back to programming, edit BodyCM (non asbuilt). All the way at the bottom of the list, edit the vin back to your own vin, the same way you did earlier. Hit write/verify vin is correct, then key off, plug in PCM and AWD, then back in forscan erase all codes in all modules (which there will be MANY). Now key off/back on and scan all for codes. If yours works out like mine you should be code free and have a working PSCM at this point. If you did this w/out the rack installed yet, and its getting late, you can still plug your original back in and install the rack another time, or if you have it in, its ready for the alignment rack! WOOHOO!
Are you still working on this tomorrow (weds) ? Can I come over and watch/help?Looks like physical install today and programming tomorrow! @NORCALGXP I think you will still be on a
Sure, not sure how this is going to go. I work from home so as soon as Mr. Bezos drops it off I'm rolling my work station to the garage(because my latop is windows 95).
mine showed up.
Easy if you remove the driver side tie rod and the entire front differential bracket ( the bracket not the diff).
Its subjective, I think the bushing would have saved my rack. Hoss 3.0 rack is all around beefer just not bomb proof. I really need to take the two racks apart and do a comparison but I am not made of money or a YouTuber. I would say BroncBuster mods + stock rack are equal to the Hoss 3.0 rack at this time.
damn Bronco
We're you up all night working?
Time change, I started at 5pm and finished a 6:30? I feel old as we have had dinner at 4:30pm two nights in a row and in bed by 8pm.
It looks to me like the 3.0 rack is substantially beefier than the stock rack, is it not what you were hoping for?Its subjective, I think the bushing would have saved my rack. Hoss 3.0 rack is all around beefer just not bomb proof. I really need to take the two racks apart and do a comparison but I am not made of money or a YouTuber. I would say BroncBuster mods + stock rack are equal to the Hoss 3.0 rack at this time.
I need a go fund me
