HOSS 3.0 vs HOSS 1.0 vs BroncBuster - driver side steering bushing comparison & discussion

[BigMeatsBronco]

Lastly, the printed circuit "tape" that connects the 3 boards easily gets torn or pulls away from the circuit board, ruining it....

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[BigMeatsBronco]

After my Ford dealer refused to return my old rack 1.0 I guess, as a core. Then I decided to go ahead and tear into it and see how the innards worked just for an educational purposes.

 

[Tex]

Lastly, the printed circuit "tape" that connects the 3 boards easily gets torn or pulls away from the circuit board, ruining it....

I may be able to repair that for you. I do a lot of SMD soldering and have plenty of insulated jumper wire and whatnot to replicate that broken FFC, could probably even reuse the original FFC if it's not too mangled, though I don't have any way of testing it to verify function beyond a simple continuity check between the boards. May also be possible to make the jumper leads longer to give you enough room to remove the cap without damaging another FFC in the process.

I'd need that other board that was epoxied in the cap removed to access it though, and that doesn't look to be an easy job. I have no idea what that would entail without damaging it, but a lot of PCB glues of this nature are silicon resins which release with heat, starts around 200C. The hard part is getting the heat on the glue and not the components. I've used a heat gun in the past to remove "permanent" installations where the PCB was glued to a housing but not physically touching it, all the heat went to the glue and didn't conduct into the PCB itself. If you can get those boards removed, there's a good chance I can get you going again.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I may be able to repair that for you. I do a lot of SMD soldering and have plenty of insulated jumper wire and whatnot to replicate that broken FFC, could probably even reuse the original FFC if it's not too mangled, though I don't have any way of testing it to verify function beyond a simple continuity check between the boards. May also be possible to make the jumper leads longer to give you enough room to remove the cap without damaging another FFC in the process.

I'd need that other board that was epoxied in the cap removed to access it though, and that doesn't look to be an easy job. I have no idea what that would entail without damaging it, but a lot of PCB glues of this nature are silicon resins which release with heat, starts around 200C. The hard part is getting the heat on the glue and not the components. I've used a heat gun in the past to remove "permanent" installations where the PCB was glued to a housing but not physically touching it, all the heat went to the glue and didn't conduct into the PCB itself. If you can get those boards removed, there's a good chance I can get you going again.

I can send it to you if you want to play with it but for me it was just an educational purpose to see what the hell was in there didn't really care if I destroyed it because I was already running my new 3.0 rack

 

[_jeff]

I really appreciate all the information shared on this forum.

I'm still on stock Badlands suspension and haven't run into any issues off-roading but I think that's to be expected on 33s. However, the 3.0 is sounding like a great upgrade should the need ever present itself.

 

[Tricky Dick]

My unprogrammed rack had power steering and drove. I had codes but functionally it worked with no programming.

So if a guy were able to source a 3.0 rack but didn't have time to install and program it, it could still be carried as a spare to get home? Nice.

Does replacing a 1.0 rack with another 1.0 require any programming?

 

[Snacktime]

So if a guy were able to source a 3.0 rack but didn't have time to install and program it, it could still be carried as a spare to get home? Nice.

Does replacing a 1.0 rack with another 1.0 require any programming?

So far hoss 3.0 has functionality in my lower trim.

A new in the box hoss 1.0 will need to be programmed but should work (power steering only).

 

[Tricky Dick]

A new in the box hoss 1.0 will need to be programmed but should work (power steering only).

How about a used takeout? Plug and play?

 

[zuke]

How about a used takeout? Plug and play?

Probably accross the board yes. But it's possible it could have different programming in different trims, I don't think anyone here has really looked into that. But even then, it stores the VIN in it, so probably would at least require that be changed in Forscan..

 

[Tricky Dick]

Probably accross the board yes. But it's possible it could have different programming in different trims, I don't think anyone here has really looked into that. But even then, it stores the VIN in it, so probably would at least require that be changed in Forscan..

I'm just thinking about adding another level of insurance to make sure I can get back home if I were to break a rack 2000 miles from home. It sounds like a spare new or used 1.0 rack would do that.

 

[zuke]

I'm just thinking about adding another level of insurance to make sure I can get back home if I were to break a rack 2000 miles from home. It sounds like a spare new or used 1.0 rack would do that.

yup, I think that's a solid plan... Even without programming, It would get you home, you just might have a christmas tree dash..

but you can plug the rack into the Bronco without installing it, so you could plug the rack in before the trip to see if it throws any obvious errors, and do what ever programming-VIN changes were needed pre-departure.

Also, you're going to Windrock, I got a spare 1.0 rack a mere 5 hour drive from there if you find yourself stranded in Tennesee

 

[Snacktime]

I really appreciate all the information shared on this forum.

I'm still on stock Badlands suspension and haven't run into any issues off-roading but I think that's to be expected on 33s. However, the 3.0 is sounding like a great upgrade should the need ever present itself.

If you wheel a BB bushing should be your first modification no matter what size tire you run. Once the factory bushing is damaged your slowly killing your rack. Think of it as a support preventing wear.

I think tire size is irrelevant, it's the constant shock loads while wheeling.

 

[Tricky Dick]

yup, I think that's a solid plan... Even without programming, It would get you home, you just might have a christmas tree dash..

but you can plug the rack into the Bronco without installing it, so you could plug the rack in before the trip to see if it throws any obvious errors, and do what ever programming-VIN changes were needed pre-departure.

Also, you're going to Windrock, I got a spare 1.0 rack a mere 5 hour drive from there if you find yourself stranded in Tennesee

Awesome! Right now I'm worried about Moab. I think I'm going on 35s instead of the 37s and I'm hoping my tierods will be the fuse.

 

[Snacktime]

Probably accross the board yes. But it's possible it could have different programming in different trims, I don't think anyone here has really looked into that. But even then, it stores the VIN in it, so probably would at least require that be changed in Forscan..

So far there are 2 different sets of programming, NB3C-14003-AB and MB3C-14D003-AB for the steering rack. I will confirm raptor programming next time I pay for a FDRS subscription(most likely NB3C). The issue is the other modules like abs which uses steering angle to calculate parameters.

 

[Snacktime]

Awesome! Right now I'm worried about Moab. I think I'm going on 35s instead of the 37s and I'm hoping my tierods will be the fuse.

Just make sure you put logos all over your bronco, then call Matts Offroad for free advertising with tow.

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