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How Did you Lift your Badlands Sasquatch (& CV Angles)

Arcnsparks

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So they must also have a bracket to lower the Swaybar? Or what did you do there?
Yeah, the kit came with lowering blocks that tied in to the existing swaybar frame mounting locations and the rear cross member, and that dropped the entire bar down as needed.
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OX1

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Exactly. Adding sway bar disconnects to a Sasquatch package proves that Ford allows for at least as much CV angle as a sub 2" level would net on a truck with no sway bar disconnect
If you climb steep enough, you can get the front wheels virtually off the ground (here and there), in which case sway bar has no affect on max droop, both sides. Granted you aren't getting max traction in that situtation. I don't wheel CV's, not sure what happens if you run them at (or beyond) max angle, but under lighter load.
 
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darkscion0

darkscion0

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What happens is you lose your balls. There's a Litebrite video where a Bronco maxes out the CVs and the CV balls literally fall out.

If you climb steep enough, you can get the front wheels virtually off the ground (here and there), in which case sway bar has no affect on max droop, both sides. Granted you aren't getting max traction in that situtation. I don't wheel CV's, not sure what happens if you run them at (or beyond) max angle, but under lighter load.
 
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BigMeatsBronco

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If you climb steep enough, you can get the front wheels virtually off the ground (here and there), in which case sway bar has no affect on max droop, both sides. Granted you aren't getting max traction in that situtation. I don't wheel CV's, not sure what happens if you run them at (or beyond) max angle, but under lighter load.
Yep, this is the EXACT problem I see with most IFS vehicles. I'll release a solution soon once it's finished.
 

BigMeatsBronco

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What happens is you lose your balls. There's a Litebrite video where a Bronco maxes out the CVs and the CV balls literally fall out.
LOL well that's because they didn't do a diff drop and now the CV angle is ridiculous 🙄....typical bought-not-built junk. Most the suspension shit that is being sold is inferior to the SAS suspension. Especially the stupid UCAs with less angle available than the factory OEM upper ball joints.
 

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Jhuff

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I've been trying to compile as much information as I can on this subject and am looking for confirmation on my plans:

I'm expecting 0.5“+ of sag due to settling, RSE steps, and gear. Whatever the sag is, any lift up to that point should only restore correct angles, correct?

I'm reading that leveling kits can be installed front and rear, but the manufacturer s I've contacted won't confirm (fabtech 1.5").

So, despite lack of confirmation, I'm thinking that the fabtech 1.5“ front and rear should give my BL Sas about 1“ over stock with less rake, and the small diff drop would come close to returning angles to stock.

Anything I am missing or have wrong?
 

akturbo

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I'm looking for ~1.5" lift for a little more clearance and to regain lost clearance after RSE steps, winch, bumper, loaded with gear, etc. and stay within the stock shock and CV safe zone when wheeling hard. I want to "do it right", what is that method and does this kit exist?
 
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Jhuff

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I'm looking for ~1.5" lift for a little more clearance and to regain lost clearance after RSE steps, winch, bumper, loaded with gear, etc. and stay within the stock shock and CV safe zone when wheeling hard. I want to "do it right", what is that method and does this kit exist?
The consensus for doing it "right" is usually to buy new springs that give the desired lift. This sacrifices little to nothing.

Right now we are stuck with spacer lifts/levels in different configurations that slightly reduce articulation.

I just installed fabtech 1.5“ level kit today, and may add an .75“-1“ in the rear to get some rake.

It was a chore, but I'm happy.
 
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darkscion0

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Well, thanks for everyone chiming in with their plans / experiences. I think I finally settled on an upgrade path, at least for the near future. This path takes into consideration part availability, limitations of CV angles and the fact that I really can't blow $5k-$13k on a lift right now. I'm also not a fan of tossing away the Sasquatch HOSS shocks considering the extra cost of the Sasquatch package.
  • Icon 3" spacer lift. (preload + spacer)
  • JKS Max Tire Clearance Kit
  • Broncbuster 1.5" body lift kit
Goal is to fit 37" Nittos on it. Either 37x13.5 Mud Grapplers or 37x12.5 Trail Grapplers. A 1" wheel spacer may be needed but we'll see how all the above shakes out for clearance first.

I've already address steering weak points with the Broncbuster rack bushing and tierod braces.
 

Merc4x4

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I'm looking for ~1.5" lift for a little more clearance and to regain lost clearance after RSE steps, winch, bumper, loaded with gear, etc. and stay within the stock shock and CV safe zone when wheeling hard. I want to "do it right", what is that method and does this kit exist?
I've been thinking about this exact scenario and the spring perch collar / coil spacer lift looks like the best solution today. I too would want to stay below 2". One of the vendors seemed open to a "custom" kit that included 2 sets of the shorter leveling kit front spacers. It seems logical to me that we'd want the same size spacer front and rear to keep relative factory specs.
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/svcs-new-coil-spacer-lift.42371/

Icon replacement coil overs look to be the other good off-the-shelf option.

Add the JKS body mount chop / max tire clearence kit and 37's should fit without rub.

And the WildTrak HOSS 3.0 steering rack and tie rods.

Probably cheaper to get the Bronco Raptor...
 

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Aztec1382

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im going with the jks body mount chop and 37s for now
going to let the aftermarket come out with a solid lift kit before replacing the hoss2.0
 

Evolkidbell

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LOL well that's because they didn't do a diff drop and now the CV angle is ridiculous 🙄....typical bought-not-built junk. Most the suspension shit that is being sold is inferior to the SAS suspension. Especially the stupid UCAs with less angle available than the factory OEM upper ball joints.
Ball joints typically get more angle of rotation than uni-balls. The big advantage of uni-balls in suspension systems, is that you can double sear the joint.
 

Broncoman7072

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Well, thanks for everyone chiming in with their plans / experiences. I think I finally settled on an upgrade path, at least for the near future. This path takes into consideration part availability, limitations of CV angles and the fact that I really can't blow $5k-$13k on a lift right now. I'm also not a fan of tossing away the Sasquatch HOSS shocks considering the extra cost of the Sasquatch package.
  • Icon 3" spacer lift. (preload + spacer)
  • JKS Max Tire Clearance Kit
  • Broncbuster 1.5" body lift kit
Goal is to fit 37" Nittos on it. Either 37x13.5 Mud Grapplers or 37x12.5 Trail Grapplers. A 1" wheel spacer may be needed but we'll see how all the above shakes out for clearance first.

I've already address steering weak points with the Broncbuster rack bushing and tierod braces.
Sasquatch
Icon 3" spacer lift
JKS max tire clearance kit
37" STT PROs on 17x8.5 0mm
Front sway bar removed
1.5" body lift just shipped.

IMG_20220515_195148420_HDR.jpg


IMG_20220515_195123597_HDR.jpg


IMG_20220515_141748521.jpg
 
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darkscion0

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Very nice! I'm running the stock sasquatch wheels so I may need spacers. I see there's very little room when the tire is stuffed but how's the clearance when turning? I may not be able to run the 37" Mud Grapplers because they measure 14.5" wide.

Sasquatch
Icon 3" spacer lift
JKS max tire clearance kit
37" STT PROs on 17x8.5 0mm
Front sway bar removed
1.5" body lift just shipped.
 

Broncoman7072

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Very nice! I'm running the stock sasquatch wheels so I may need spacers. I see there's very little room when the tire is stuffed but how's the clearance when turning? I may not be able to run the 37" Mud Grapplers because they measure 14.5" wide.
To clear up things up: the close up of the tire is with the wheels turned. It is touching the wheel well liner. Also get rear tire rub.

I don't know if you could run a 14.5" tire unless they run alot smaller.
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