How to break in a new Manual?

[Monster79]

it occurred to me the other day, that I bet he's got an order, and is fully intending to get one just to destroy it. just like the jeep that got a silo dropped on it.

God I hope not, I watched his earlier videos but now it's just cringe..

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[HotdogThud]

also, everyone knows you break in a clutch by revving the brand new motor to 7k, and dumping it.

 

[BLTN]

Normal (sedate) driving -- don't go all "Cars and Coffee Mustang" with it and it will live a good long time.

 

[Monster79]

Normal (sedate) driving -- don't go all "Cars and Coffee Mustang" with it and it will live a good long time.

I'm sure he would appreciate the input but I don't think he's gonna be able to respond at the moment..

 

[AcesandEights]

If you cant find it, grind it.

 

[lobbs611]

also, everyone knows you break in a clutch by revving the brand new motor to 7k, and dumping it.

Damn it. Was just coming here to post that advice...

 

[Monster79]

Nah

 

[KH_59]

How to brake, in a new Manual?

Depress the clutch and/or shift into neutral before coming to a complete stop.

 

[Paul Gagnon]

Take it out of the cover and crack the spine so it lays flat. There you have broken in your owners manual.

 

[Gr8Hortoni]

I’ve been looking for what got the hammer dropped

 

[AcesandEights]

I wanna know what instrument he/she plays.

 

[Rick Astley]

Since I never got a brand new Manual, not sure how to go about the break in procedure.

I don't baby my vehicles, maybe an Italian Tune up but otherwise just drive it normally when I get them new, but then with an OEM Clutch, isn't it the first 200 city miles and then you're good?

Any pro's here wanna give me the proper advice with the new beast, so I dont screw up but do it just right?

Thanks in advance

Are you talking about Tony's official "Fix It Again, Tony!" Italian roadside tune-up?

Might as well just drive it straight into a telephone pole. Faster and cheaper to repair afterward than owning an Italian car.

Modern clutches paired with synchronized transmission gears along with (usually) brass components for synchronization generally are "zero adjustment" once the TOB is aligned properly (and i'm assuming a 99.99% accuracy rate for TOB alignment from the factory as they are assembly-line built with specialized tooling and zero-mileage units).

Personally i've either gone by the "lifetime fill" moto for transmissions where you never drain it as whatever metal shavings have worked their way into where they are is what's keeping that thing functioning. I've done that for all my pre-1965 vehicles be it auto or manual.

With a modern machine, using the track-built Evo IX as example, I would stick to a religious change interval based upon usage rather than mileage. Pretty much after 100 track-miles Blackstone labs said the fluid was shot. With Bronco i'll prescribe to my standard 2.5K mile break-in with slowwwwwww shifts, NEVER power shifting or skipping gears, keeping revs below a certain RPM (thinking 4K RPM for Bronco) then replace major fluids (trans, motor oil), specifically using OEM spec replacement fluids, with higher zinc in the motor and pure OEM in trans.

Then a further 2.5K miles driven hard with quick gear shifting, smooth throttle application and linear firm acceleration at every opportunity, still keeping away from redline and ABSOLUTELY keeping away from quickly lifting off throttle (read up on connecting rod failures, float and compression). Even if WOT was reached, the roll from WOT down to reasonable throttle would be linear and gradual to allow revs to recede instead of fall off a cliff.

Final fluid change at 5K total vehicle miles (high zinc amsoil motor oil, have yet to determine exactly which trans fluid), but this time also doing the rear differential, coolant flush and brake fluid replacement so I have known mileage and fluid throughout the vehicle.

Many of the metal components need to create mating surfaces and that can be done with little wear with gentle applications. But you also need the piston rings to adequately mate the cylinder walls. (There are some decent articles about using only the aggressive break-in process out there, i have simply split the difference to allow for a softer engagement of metal on metal surfaces prior to the beating-on process).

 

[Bronco4lyfe85]

Rev it high before you shift so you can lubricate the whole RPM range for each year gear. When you shift the grinding is just excess medal working the gears into place, that’s good for the transmission.

 

[HarderCorer]

I was going to do what the owner's manual says. *pushes his glasses back up*
Speaking of which, anyone know when I can get my hands on that baby? Read the bronco sport and ranger ones but just not the same.

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