how to disable traction control / advancetrac permemnantly {fusebox solution}

[NewBroncoOwner]

Following for solution

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[Desert runner]

i found this information in the raptor forum,
Hesitant to test it,
below are two fuses in the raptor forums they figured out to remove the anti lock module and the anti lock brake fuses. now i do want to try this as it is essential to my way of off-roading. if anyone has tried this would appreciate the feedback

bronco anti lock fuse numbers.

28	60A	Anti-lock brake system valves.
29	60A	Anti-lock brake system pump.

which one would make sense to take out and test first ?



side note : i did everything with the hero switch to disable it double press and hold and all that.
if it does not kick in it means your not really off-roading.

 

[Desert runner]

You could try Fuse #23 in the engine bay - ABS system. Perhaps you'd trick the computer that way? Not sure what affect it would have on traction control, but you could give that a shot?

the fuse you referred to is below. i missed it thanks for the heads up.

just need help reaching to a ford mechanic/technician to know which one would it be.

not into playing Russian roulette.

will find a way though

23

10A

Anti-lock brake system run-start feed.

 

[mj63]

Your best bet is most likely to unscrew a single wheel speed sensor and remove it from it's hole (leave it connected to the connector/wire to keep corrosion, water, sand, etc out of the connector). That will disable ESC, ABS, and traction control, but should still retain the electronic brake force distribution function (front to rear proportioning is handled by the ABS module in modern vehicles). Your steering will get heavier at low speeds since it will revert to a default speed (usually 100kph) boost curve. There may also be other unexpected faults/changes in the performance of other modules and/or systems like the 4x4/4A, but that will happen with any 'failure' of the ABS system.

Also, there is an element of playing Russian roulette to faulting out the ESC/ABS system - you are increasing the risk of crashing and/or rolling the vehicle over. If you are okay with that additional risk, then that is okay but if you do it do it with full knowledge of what you are doing.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Your best bet is most likely to unscrew a single wheel speed sensor and remove it from it's hole (leave it connected to the connector/wire to keep corrosion, water, sand, etc out of the connector). That will disable ESC, ABS, and traction control, but should still retain the electronic brake force distribution function (front to rear proportioning is handled by the ABS module in modern vehicles). Your steering will get heavier at low speeds since it will revert to a default speed (usually 100kph) boost curve. There may also be other unexpected faults/changes in the performance of other modules and/or systems like the 4x4/4A, but that will happen with any 'failure' of the ABS system.

Also, there is an element of playing Russian roulette to faulting out the ESC/ABS system - you are increasing the risk of crashing and/or rolling the vehicle over. If you are okay with that additional risk, then that is okay but if you do it do it with full knowledge of what you are doing.

When my ABS sensor was damaged it disabled both my front locker and swaybar disconnect. Probably also other things that I didn't notice.

 

[Desert runner]

Your best bet is most likely to unscrew a single wheel speed sensor and remove it from it's hole (leave it connected to the connector/wire to keep corrosion, water, sand, etc out of the connector). That will disable ESC, ABS, and traction control, but should still retain the electronic brake force distribution function (front to rear proportioning is handled by the ABS module in modern vehicles). Your steering will get heavier at low speeds since it will revert to a default speed (usually 100kph) boost curve. There may also be other unexpected faults/changes in the performance of other modules and/or systems like the 4x4/4A, but that will happen with any 'failure' of the ABS system.

Also, there is an element of playing Russian roulette to faulting out the ESC/ABS system - you are increasing the risk of crashing and/or rolling the vehicle over. If you are okay with that additional risk, then that is okay but if you do it do it with full knowledge of what you are doing.

Do you reckon i should wait. i doubt there will be any fix for this.
As i spoke to a raptor owner in California he said that they had an aftermarket switch to turn off the abs pump but that took years in research for the previous GEN of the raptor.

i still cant understand why is this an issue. why cant it completely be disabled.

to put things more in context :-

the traction and advancetrak can be disabled but the stability control kicks in a lot.

 

[mj63]

the traction and advancetrak can be disabled but the stability control kicks in a lot.

A couple of things;
1) Advancetrak == stability control
2) If you have EBB (in all north american V6 Broncos, no idea about rest of the world), the ABS pump is your brakes - so disabling the pump will leave you with very limited ability to decelerate the vehicle. This applies whether you disable power to the pump or power to the ABS computer.

 

[mj63]

When my ABS sensor was damaged it disabled both my front locker and swaybar disconnect. Probably also other things that I didn't notice.

Exactly.

 

[akturbo]

Rock crawl seems to disable traction controls well, do any of the other modes (not 4Low) take care of it? Seems Baja shouldn’t have controls.

 

[Bmadda]

Rock crawl seems to disable traction controls well, do any of the other modes (not 4Low) take care of it? Seems Baja shouldn’t have controls.

mud/ruts should disable traction, but allow 4H

 

[Desert runner]

great feedback thank you all. still gonna try to find a way around it.

 

[Tiresmoke410]

The ABS pump is not your brakes if you have EBB!!!!
With EBB you have an electric servo that provides assist in place of a vacuum canister or fords own hydra boost set up they used to use. It directly acts on the piston inside the brake master cylinder.
the abs pump only runs when abs valves starte bleeding pressure. The pump comes on to build pressure during the cycling of these valves in an abs event.

I would try the abs pump fuse first. If you pull the fuse for the valves you loose ebd. Electronic brake distribution and that can cause rear wheel locking.

that said I tried all this on my f250 (2016) and it was smart enough to use other means to keep traction control working. It actually made things worse because the truck figured it was vulnerable to a loss of contol. The way I hot wired it was to disable the front left abs sensor. Abs still works ( I’m sure at a reduced efficiency). Traction and stability control are full off with the flick of a toggle switch that opens a relay I wired into the abs sensor. I did this because I got tired of getting stuck in mud when tc would cause a loss of momentum. And on the pick up stabilitrac never turns off. Not even a little. Not sure if this would work in a bronco or if it would cause other issues with things mentioned above. Like stabi bar disconnect. Lockers…..

All that said. I believe stabilitrac is off. I can go as slideways as I want at high and low speeds. I have a thread on this in another post. What I find is the tc stays engaged to prevent one tire from spinning more than the other. End result is the same. Loss of power and some brake force applied when you don’t want it. The solution the op my need is a way to hot wire the locker to stay on full time to avoid this discrepancy in wheel speeds left to right.

 

[IDyeti]

i still cant understand why is this an issue. why cant it completely be disabled.

 

[mj63]

The ABS pump is not your brakes if you have EBB!!!!
With EBB you have an electric servo that provides assist in place of a vacuum canister or fords own hydra boost set up they used to use. It directly acts on the piston inside the brake master cylinder.
the abs pump only runs when abs valves starte bleeding pressure. The pump comes on to build pressure during the cycling of these valves in an abs event.

Most of you post was accurate, but unfortunately not the part above. In EBB based brake systems, your brake pedal pushes against a 'pedal feel simulator' while that happens, a displacement sensor measures how far you have pushed the brake pedal, and then the EBB pump (usually a ball screw driven piston) pushes the brake fluid to the wheel ends - this has to run every time you press the brake pedal in order for EBB to feel normal. There is a fallback circuit that you can activate with the brake pedal, but only after fully compressing the pedal feel simulator in the event of an EBB pump failure - they do meet the FMVSS required minimum deceleration rate requirements, but it doesn't feel like you will be able to stop (and this is what you would get if you pulled the EBB pump fuse).

In the days before EPAS, you could unplug the steering wheel angle sensor to defeat ESC while leaving ABS, EBD, and TC available - but those days are long gone at this point.

Also, it is typical to still leave the brake based portion of traction control active after the driver presses the TC off switch (i.e. the switch disables the TC requests to the engine to reduce torque). There are two major reasons for this: 1) differential durability (they don't like one wheel spinning a lot faster than the other) and 2) to sort of simulate a locker to hopefully prevent someone without lockers from getting stuck.

 

[AK SNO RIDER]

I don't understand why Ford INSISTS on shoving the stability control down our throats in the Bronco.

F150s have the same problem. The advanctrac is so Massively intrusive. A competent driver can get so much more out of a car with these bullshit systems turned off.

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