ICUGAZN

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Great video thank you for posting...I know a lot of time and effort go into making these instructional vids and it is greatly appreciated!

One possible enhancement, and I don't know if you all would consider adding these parts to the light kits but with my Raptor the factory Aux wires are pretty short and if you ever decide to change an accessory to a different switch or have to replace a light and you cut back the factory wire it will get that much shorter or if you instead re-splice and add a second butt connector... less than ideal. Typically the less connections the better. I added weatherpak connections so they are plug / un-plug as needed. You could also use Delphi or other brands...any thoughts?

Yes, I have the specialty crimpers for both Weatherpak and Delphi but you can install them with needle nose pliers.
Do you have a link to the ones you used? I'm thinking of doing the same and adding them to all of the Aux wires. Thanks.
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Do you have a link to the ones you used? I'm thinking of doing the same and adding them to all of the Aux wires. Thanks.
Yes, but my order is a bit complex. I use these connectors on different vehicles, UTVs, ATVs, tractor, etc. so I buy the components in bulk but it is a little harder that way. Waytek catalog is nice and will show you all the pieces you need and how they go together but the initial order is tedious.
Male Single
Female Single
Male terminal
Female Terminal
Seal

Amazon has some kits...I tried the cheap red / yellow once and they really are lesser quality. Here is an example of a full kit with the crimper but you can search Amazon and get smaller kits or just sets of single connectors.
Amazon Link

Here is a smaller kit but it is 2 connectors and you want to find one connector.
Another Amazon link

The other thing I do is once the terminals are completed i put a squirt of dielectric grease into the female terminal. No required but always a good idea.
Dielectric Example

PM me if you want to chat more about it...sorry to hijack the thread but I am pretty sure it is in the forum rules every thread must be hijacked.
 
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Diode Dynamics

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@Diode Dynamics - I bought the Stage Series SS3 Ditch Light Kit (White Combo - Max) for my Bronco. Based on the specs it shows 3 amps used for the Max lights. So, I should be fine to wire my 2 pillar lights to any of the 10 amp auxiliary switches right?
https://www.diodedynamics.com/stage-series-3-sae-dot-white-max-standard-led-pod-one.html

In the specifications tab on our listing, you can find the specifications for 1 pod.

Using the 10A Aux bank will suffice to power up to two max pods.

@Diode Dynamics Are you guys considering a SS6 kit for Bronco? They seem like a more appropriate fit for my needs in the HD modular bumper.
We have tested our SS6 light bars on our modular fog light kit bracket if that's the route you choose to go. I've included an image for reference of our Ford Raptor SS6 kit.

17_Raptor_6in_Amber_Driving_fog2web.jpg


I like it and you made the install less scary!!! I am sure the lights are bright, but I was thinking of doing a 5 inch style light for the look and the ability. Any thoughts?
Stay tuned for more information on our social channels regarding a larger stage series LED pod in the future!

Great video thank you for posting...I know a lot of time and effort go into making these instructional vids and it is greatly appreciated!

One possible enhancement, and I don't know if you all would consider adding these parts to the light kits but with my Raptor the factory Aux wires are pretty short and if you ever decide to change an accessory to a different switch or have to replace a light and you cut back the factory wire it will get that much shorter or if you instead re-splice and add a second butt connector... less than ideal. Typically the less connections the better. I added weatherpak connections so they are plug / un-plug as needed. You could also use Delphi or other brands...any thoughts?

Yes, I have the specialty crimpers for both Weatherpak and Delphi but you can install them with needle nose pliers.
You've got a great point. I'll be sure to provide this information to our engineering team. Thank you!

John C.
Diode Dynamics
 

ATLBronco75

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We have tested our SS6 light bars on our modular fog light kit bracket if that's the route you choose to go. I've included an image for reference of our Ford Raptor SS6 kit.

17_Raptor_6in_Amber_Driving_fog2web.jpg


John C.
Diode Dynamics
Are you saying I can just order the Raptor kit?
 

mtap

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Great video thank you for posting...I know a lot of time and effort go into making these instructional vids and it is greatly appreciated!

One possible enhancement, and I don't know if you all would consider adding these parts to the light kits but with my Raptor the factory Aux wires are pretty short and if you ever decide to change an accessory to a different switch or have to replace a light and you cut back the factory wire it will get that much shorter or if you instead re-splice and add a second butt connector... less than ideal. Typically the less connections the better. I added weatherpak connections so they are plug / un-plug as needed. You could also use Delphi or other brands...any thoughts?

Yes, I have the specialty crimpers for both Weatherpak and Delphi but you can install them with needle nose pliers.
Run a pigtail and quick disconnectors and you won’t have to keep cutting existing wires..this is my set up. You’ll also have the ability to move any lights/accessories to whatever switch you like.

2008FC9A-F1A9-4FDB-81EB-D6776F3C0D03.jpeg


36E45C38-5F90-4500-B288-CEBE3DE37D23.jpeg


F8F297B0-4987-4D03-8F4F-D64B54E800D7.jpeg
 
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Diode Dynamics

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Are you saying I can just order the Raptor kit?
Sorry for the confusion!

No, the Ford Raptor kit is not compatible.

This is an example of an SS6 in a similar bumper to the Ford Bronco modular bumper. The SS6 light bars will work with the upcoming Ford Bronco Modular bumper bracket.

I hope this helps!

John C.
Diode Dyanamics
 

Thed

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Non-sealed butt connectors, huh? Do it right next time.
 

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Did you mean use wire nuts or electrical tape!?! ;)
Scotch locks. Tons and tons of Scotch locks. 😂😂

61LvCFlhSyL._AC_SY355_.jpg


But seriously, never use these anywhere. They're a one-way ticket to problems. I wish they could be outlawed.

As far as unsealed but connectors, they can be just as damaging to wiring if used in an outdoor environment.

Heat shrink
Heat shrink
Heat shrink
 

mpeugeot

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Scotch locks. Tons and tons of Scotch locks. 😂😂

61LvCFlhSyL._AC_SY355_.jpg


But seriously, never use these anywhere. They're a one-way ticket to problems. I wish they could be outlawed.

As far as unsealed but connectors, they can be just as damaging to wiring if used in an outdoor environment.

Heat shrink
Heat shrink
Heat shrink
I absolutely hate scotch-locks, they make wire nuts look like modern technology!
 

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Non-sealed butt connectors, huh? Do it right next time.
Those are the ones you heat up with a torch, the solder in the middle makes the connection and the clear is shrink tube. Sealed, but still not the best choice in my opinion. I used to wire trophy trucks for a living and all my connections were made with non insulated crimp connectors with glue filled heat shrink over top. Unless there's been advancements in the last 10 years that I don't know about, that was the industry standard for off road race applications.
 

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Those are the ones you heat up with a torch, the solder in the middle makes the connection and the clear is shrink tube. Sealed, but still not the best choice in my opinion. I used to wire trophy trucks for a living and all my connections were made with non insulated crimp connectors with glue filled heat shrink over top. Unless there's been advancements in the last 10 years that I don't know about, that was the industry standard for off road race applications.
Crimp connectors are acceptable for many applications, aerospace had typically been soldered connections to a proper mil-spec connector with proper use of seals when I worked on aircraft. High quality water-tight locking connectors (crimp or solder) are definitely the best option for connecting two wires for on or off-road vehicles.
 

De Brus

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Crimp connectors are acceptable for many applications, aerospace had typically been soldered connections to a proper mil-spec connector with proper use of seals when I worked on aircraft. High quality water-tight locking connectors (crimp or solder) are definitely the best option for connecting two wires for on or off-road vehicles.
Too much vibration off road to rely on solder connections. Too much or too little heat and solder is brittle or poor conductivity. In off road racing, non insulated connection with glue filled heat shrink is still the preferred method today (reached out to old coworker).
 

VelocityBronco

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When I worked for a company making military shelters, we started using these. They can take a wide range of wires and clamping force is very high, so the wires don't pull out. They are not water tight as far as I can tell, but super easy to use and can move wires very easy. Come in different terminal lengths as well (3, 4, 5). I don't know how these would hold up under the hood of a truck though...

1632409035696.png

https://www.digikey.com/en/products...vRGmRnBc_F2i25R6Sz3-hZ_zRvOZLwjBoC3ToQAvD_BwE
 

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Run a pigtail and quick disconnectors and you won’t have to keep cutting existing wires..this is my set up. You’ll also have the ability to move any lights/accessories to whatever switch you like.

2008FC9A-F1A9-4FDB-81EB-D6776F3C0D03.jpeg


36E45C38-5F90-4500-B288-CEBE3DE37D23.jpeg


F8F297B0-4987-4D03-8F4F-D64B54E800D7.jpeg
Those look like soldering but connectors is that correct? It is tough to tell from the last picture but it does not look like the solder has flowed out and you still have a ring. I have only used this type a couple of times but typically you should be able to see the solder flow out...Again, might just be the pics but you may want to recheck them.
 
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