TRMFAM

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When I worked for a company making military shelters, we started using these. They can take a wide range of wires and clamping force is very high, so the wires don't pull out. They are not water tight as far as I can tell, but super easy to use and can move wires very easy. Come in different terminal lengths as well (3, 4, 5). I don't know how these would hold up under the hood of a truck though...

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https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/wago-corporation/222-412/VE00-2500/13549446?utm_adgroup=Terminals - Wire Splice Connectors&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping_Product_Connectors, Interconnects_NEW&utm_term=&utm_content=Terminals - Wire Splice Connectors&gclid=CjwKCAjwy7CKBhBMEiwA0Eb7aoQRFbjoHEffhYUy3VKDaPvRGmRnBc_F2i25R6Sz3-hZ_zRvOZLwjBoC3ToQAvD_BwE
I just saw those for automotive use on Amazon...completed a room build out at my house and used the Wago ones for home wiring for the first time and I love them! Totally sold on them. For automotive I think if you packed with dielectric and then used a good electrical tape over them would handle anything except full submersion...so should be safe up at the upfitters. But honestly need to try it and see how well it works.
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mtap

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Those look like soldering but connectors is that correct? It is tough to tell from the last picture but it does not look like the solder has flowed out and you still have a ring. I have only used this type a couple of times but typically you should be able to see the solder flow out...Again, might just be the pics but you may want to recheck them.
non solder connectors the one i used does not melt the ring
 

TRMFAM

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@mtap sorry, I am easily confused...you did not use soldering connectors (post 32) or you did use the type in the video you posted (post 33)?

Edit...I think you edited before I posted. OK...you had me there with the non and then the video of the soldering type!
 

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Those are the ones you heat up with a torch, the solder in the middle makes the connection and the clear is shrink tube. Sealed, but still not the best choice in my opinion. I used to wire trophy trucks for a living and all my connections were made with non insulated crimp connectors with glue filled heat shrink over top. Unless there's been advancements in the last 10 years that I don't know about, that was the industry standard for off road race applications.
My comment wasn't aimed towards you, it was aimed towards Diode Dynamics. The style you use can be tricky at times since the solder won't always fully melt, but are otherwise fine.

DD used just a plain-jane unsealed butt connector. That's corrosion city in an engine bay, and a ridiculous place to save a cent when you're paying $500 for a pair of lights.

Personally, I use heat-shrink crimp butt connectors. Not the prettiest, but they're extremely effective and a permanent repair or addition when used correctly.
 

De Brus

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My comment wasn't aimed towards you, it was aimed towards Diode Dynamics. The style you use can be tricky at times since the solder won't always fully melt, but are otherwise fine.

DD used just a plain-jane unsealed butt connector. That's corrosion city in an engine bay, and a ridiculous place to save a cent when you're paying $500 for a pair of lights.

Personally, I use heat-shrink crimp butt connectors. Not the prettiest, but they're extremely effective and a permanent repair or addition when used correctly.
I think you've confused me with the member who posted the pics. I just chimed in with my past professional experience, that's all.
 

mpeugeot

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Too much vibration off road to rely on solder connections. Too much or too little heat and solder is brittle or poor conductivity. In off road racing, non insulated connection with glue filled heat shrink is still the preferred method today (reached out to old coworker).
If an F-15 won't vibrate the soldered connection loose, I highly doubt that the run of the mill off-road vehicle will.

In general, for the average lower amperage application that doesn't require a hermetically sealed connection, the crimped connection has a lot of benefits and is superior because of those benefits. However, it's all in the application, the connector housing, and the skill of the assembler because a properly done, properly soldered connection will last many years, if done right, even in environments with significant amounts of vibration.

Two things really make the crimped connection superior to a properly done soldered connection. First, the skill needed to build proper soldered connections. Second, the time required vs benefit. It comes down to the old cost benefit analysis. It takes a lot of time to build a soldered connector that will tolerate off-road or aerospace conditions. There are times and places where the soldered connection is the right answer, the key is to knowing why you need a soldered connection over a crimped one.
 

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I think you've confused me with the member who posted the pics. I just chimed in with my past professional experience, that's all.
I think we're just confusing each other at this point.
 

mtap

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@mtap sorry, I am easily confused...you did not use soldering connectors (post 32) or you did use the type in the video you posted (post 33)?

Edit...I think you edited before I posted. OK...you had me there with the non and then the video of the soldering type!
Sorry about that…the one i used did not melt the center ring. Thought i had the correct video and when i saw the one that melted i deleted. My apologies. I didn’t know there was one that actually melted…i would definitely prefer that..
 

mtap

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Sorry everyone lots on confusion specially with my pics…the one i used did not have the center “solder” so to speak…just a metal ring that connects the wires and basically a heat shrink on both ends…my apologies
 

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Thanks for the video! Has anyone been able to locate the two wires that run to the passenger side glove compartment area? I've looked everywhere but only see the white/orange wire that runs to the back.
 

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Very cool, nice write up.
Very nice, however at 1:03 you ‘grab the auxiliary harness’ but from where? And how do you know which switch it goes to? I’m just not seeing where the power wires come from.
 
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