ICON Complete Coilover Suspension Systems (Stages 3 through 8)

[kodiakisland]

I have the stage 3 and planning to manually remove the front sway bar for an upcoming Moab trip. I know Icon's travel numbers are more than others. Has anyone experienced any CV axle issues with the sway bar removed? Under full droop, the CV's look to be at extreme angles.

First on those numbers, You might measure your full droop and full stuff and see what your real numbers are. Icon says up to XX inches, not a guarantee that's what you are getting.

For me, the sway bar attached still allows full droop. What it severely limits is full stuff. I've gone around 5K miles now with the sway bar removed, on and off road with no problems whatsoever. Gained a lot of upward movement. The Icons are stiff enough that I don't feel unsafe without the swaybar, but I also remind myself I don't have it in case of emergency. I usually limit my interstate speed and follow distance to compensate. That said, I don't miss the sway bar at all.

Always be mindful though of those full droop angles and what you are doing while under a load. I try to be as straight on as possible when I know I'm stressing the CVs, but it doesn't always work out that way. So far I've not had any problems and I have put them through several tough tests.

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[TNcoupe]

I have a Non Sas Badlands 2dr and have been looking at the stage 3 for low speed rock crawling and to add some 35s to the 25mm offset Rebound Pros I have sitting in the garage. How much lift am I gonna get with zero preload on the spring? Im not really looking to get a crazy high lift just level it out and improve ride and suspension travel.

 

[huskerhiker]

I just had a stage 7 installed + rock slide engineering rock sliders on my badlands non sas 4 door.

I took various measurements stock, then when I changed tires (stock 33's to General grabber 35 x 12.5 which are 35 inch by spec), and then when I added the suspension/rock sliders. Measurements are from the ground to the bottom of the fender flares (at the highest point on the arc which is roughly centered on the center of the wheel). Last column is the difference between column 4 and 3. The increase of .75 for the tires is exactly what i'd expect given the differential in the specs on the tires.

I'll double check the measurements tomorrow.

I am really happy with the way it looks. I'm actually a bit surprised at the measurements because it looks visually like it levelled out a bit front to back, but the measurements aren't showing that (shows a 1/4 inch relative increase of the front vs back). Visually I would have thought there would be more difference too. I did ask the installers to try to maintain some of the factory rake and it looks like they have very little preload (I don't think I can adjust the ride height down any farther) on the back and a bit of preload on the fronts. (I could adjust the ride height down a bit), which is a bit surprising.

	Stock	Tires/wheels	Suspension/sliders	Lift change
Front Driver	37.5	38.375	39.75	1.375
Rear Driver	39	39.75	41	1.25
Front Passenger	37.625	38.375	39.875	1.5
Rear Passenger	39	39.625	41	1.375

 

[Jviz4u]

I just had a stage 7 installed + rock slide engineering rock sliders on my badlands non sas 4 door.

I took various measurements stock, then when I changed tires (stock 33's to General grabber 35 x 12.5 which are 35 inch by spec), and then when I added the suspension/rock sliders. Measurements are from the ground to the bottom of the fender flares (at the highest point on the arc which is roughly centered on the center of the wheel). Last column is the difference between column 4 and 3. The increase of .75 for the tires is exactly what i'd expect given the differential in the specs on the tires.

I'll double check the measurements tomorrow.

I am really happy with the way it looks. I'm actually a bit surprised at the measurements because it looks visually like it levelled out a bit front to back, but the measurements aren't showing that (shows a 1/4 inch relative increase of the front vs back). Visually I would have thought there would be more difference too. I did ask the installers to try to maintain some of the factory rake and it looks like they have very little preload (I don't think I can adjust the ride height down any farther) on the back and a bit of preload on the fronts. (I could adjust the ride height down a bit), which is a bit surprising.

	Stock	Tires/wheels	Suspension/sliders	Lift change
Front Driver	37.5	38.375	39.75	1.375
Rear Driver	39	39.75	41	1.25
Front Passenger	37.625	38.375	39.875	1.5
Rear Passenger	39	39.625	41	1.375

Did u installed 35’ Generals on the original BL 17 wheels with standard offset?
No rubbing issues?

 

[huskerhiker]

The 35 Grabbers went on 17 inch Black Rhino Rapids with +12 offset. No rubbing issues of any kind.

 

[Who Dat]

@Dusty I am a happy icon stage 8 full billet kit owner. Just a quick question. I have a 22 Badland sasquatch. After having the lift installed and at full lift I am experiencing some rubbing issues at full lock w/ 37's. Nitto Recon Grapplers with with a 0 offset. Has there been any other issues you've heard of?

 

[V1Rotate]

@Dusty I am a happy icon stage 8 full billet kit owner. Just a quick question. I have a 22 Badland sasquatch. After having the lift installed and at full lift I am experiencing some rubbing issues at full lock w/ 37's. Nitto Recon Grapplers with with a 0 offset. Has there been any other issues you've heard of?

It really doesn’t matter what lift you install you’re still going to rub Offroad and at full lock (particularly in reverse) and most likely its right at the rear of the wheel well where the felt liner connects to the big plastic block behind it. If you don’t want to rub on 37’s you’re going to need to do some chopping/relocating and the easiest way to do that is with something like the JKS kit. It removes that large plastic block and replaces it with a couple of brackets that pull the fender liner back about an inch. Sawzall/grinder for the crash bar stubs. I didn’t find it necessary to relocate the front body mount (just cut the crash bar stub off of it) but YMMV. I’m on 37x12.5 Toyo MT’s, 0 offset and Radflo’s set at about 2” over SAS + Icon tubular UCA’s for reference.. zero rub at full flex/full lock

 

[Dusty at ICON]

@Dusty I am a happy icon stage 8 full billet kit owner. Just a quick question. I have a 22 Badland sasquatch. After having the lift installed and at full lift I am experiencing some rubbing issues at full lock w/ 37's. Nitto Recon Grapplers with with a 0 offset. Has there been any other issues you've heard of?

Yes its typical to rub at full compression/full lock with 37's. We designed the suspension travel in our coilovers for maximum travel with 35's. So with 37's your tires are getting a little bit past that envelope. That's why we recommend a 1/2" up-travel limiter in the front (sold by ICON, Par Number 611075) and 3/8" limitier in the rear (Part Number 611074) when running 37's. If you don't want to limit your available travel you may look into investigating where the points of contact are happening and take steps to clearance those components, as @V1Rotate has suggested. But you may need to look at the fenders/fender liners too, not just the crash bar mounts.

 

[Dannebrog53]

I also have the RSE steps installed and am about to install my Icon CDEV coilovers. One question am I supposed to pull the factory wire harness support out of the frame and muscle it up over the top of the bracket and reservoir? Not much in the way of instructions and the photos aren’t much help explaining what to do

 

[Defyfate11]

I also have the RSE steps installed and am about to install my Icon CDEV coilovers. One question am I supposed to pull the factory wire harness support out of the frame and muscle it up over the top of the bracket and reservoir? Not much in the way of instructions and the photos aren’t much help explaining what to do

You will not need to do anything with the factory wire harness. You will simply run the (4) individual shock wires in the direction of the shock and zip tie them out of harms way. (2) of them will run along the exterior firewall to the passenger side and the other (2) will run along the driver side frame where the factory harness and your RSE harness runs. I zipped tie to the Frame in the middle of the way to the rear where there were no other existing wires available to offer support.

 

[Dannebrog53]

You will not need to do anything with the factory wire harness. You will simply run the (4) individual shock wires in the direction of the shock and zip tie them out of harms way. (2) of them will run along the exterior firewall to the passenger side and the other (2) will run along the driver side frame where the factory harness and your RSE harness runs. I zipped tie to the Frame in the middle of the way to the rear where there were no other existing wires available to offer support.

Thanks for the excellent photos

You will not need to do anything with the factory wire harness. You will simply run the (4) individual shock wires in the direction of the shock and zip tie them out of harms way. (2) of them will run along the exterior firewall to the passenger side and the other (2) will run along the driver side frame where the factory harness and your RSE harness runs. I zipped tie to the Frame in the middle of the way to the rear where there were no other existing wires available to offer support.

@Defyfate11 Looking at your photos especially the third one I see a major difference between your factory harness and mine. I’ve reposted your 3rd photo and photos of the same area on my frame and you can see that the long white harness attachment to the frame is way higher on your Bronco and the short white attach point on yours is on the underside of the harness. Did your Bronco come this way or did you change the white attach points and plug the one furthest back into a hole higher up on the frame to get the necessary clearance for the ICON reservoir?

 

[Nemesis]

I have an Icon stage 5 kit on my '23 OBX. I'm also looking to install Amp Powerstep running boards. The rear reservoir and the motor for the running boards are in the same location. I need to relocate the reservoirs, however I don't see a way to do this without changing the hose length. Has anyone else run into this issue, and if so how did you fix it?

I really don't have an issue with changing the hose length, other than this is my daily driver and I don't have a hoist to keep my Bronco on for upwards of a week or two to ship the shocks off and wait for them to get back.

 

[WheelMe]

@Dusty at ICON , and current ICON owners; I'd appreciate your take on this, please: I'm considering Stage 3 for travel and lift for the purpose of rock-crawling, but am not sure how much of a lift I'd be getting. I have a Badsquatch, with 350 lbs. of winch, skids, and sliders, as well as a Bronco steel drawer in the back. Should I opt for the "Heavy" set up? As it consists of stiffer rear springs, is the front still going to sag? Thanks for your comments.

 

[rolffarms67]

I just installed a Stage 5, added the upper rear links and the rear adjustable track bar. Love the quality and the ride, and chomping at the bit to get my 37s mounted up and get off road.

My only concern is that there were no grease boots on the UCA ball joints. I haven’t had much luck getting a call answered or emails returned, so I’m hoping someone from IVD can respond to this?

 

[rolffarms67]

I just installed a Stage 5, added the upper rear links and the rear adjustable track bar. Love the quality and the ride, and chomping at the bit to get my 37s mounted up and get off road.

My only concern is that there were no grease boots on the UCA ball joints. I haven’t had much luck getting a call answered or emails returned, so I’m hoping someone from IVD can respond to this?

I was able to talk to a super-nice tech service at IVD (John, I believe) and he straightened me out on the boots.

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