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My homework has pointed me to the ICON tire rod ends. Going to replace them ASAP on the Badlands. Have others found anything better?
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How was the installation? Did you need an alignment after? Just plug and play with factory rack?I installed them on my Badlands with BFG 35”s. Great so far.
your steering rack would still be covered under warranty after upgrading to stronger ICON tie rods?I have the 33's so it sounds like these will be good. Friend of mine has a shop and can get them. Will take back to dealer for a front end, just to make sure. Dealer told me this will not change the warranty. Want all this done before I get the Ziebart put on. Thanks for your help.
They are plug and play with the factory rack. But be aware that they are stamped incorrectly from Icon (at least the set that I had). So that the tie rod marked with an L is actually passenger and the tie rod with an R is driver. You’ll need an alignment after installing.How was the installation? Did you need an alignment after? Just plug and play with factory rack?
Did you just ask if you need an alignment after changing the tie rods?How was the installation? Did you need an alignment after? Just plug and play with factory rack?
FYI it’s not a tie rod end, it’s a complete tie rod kit and It’s a good upgrade. Also get the $50 Rough Country steering rack bushing. I also carry a $15 spare Ranger tie rod just in case. You can get it all for less than the silly BroncBuster tie rod block that so many fell for lol.My homework has pointed me to the ICON tire rod ends. Going to replace them ASAP on the Badlands. Have others found anything better?
My question’s wording didn’t really reflect what I was thinking. Should have read more like “how bad was the alignment” as in was the vehicle drivable. I’m just tying to figure out how closely they were in length to the factory tie rods. Like if I spin off the factory rod at 5 spins, will the Icon rod thread on with 5 and be pretty close, thus the “plug and play” part of my question. I do realize my question was worded stupidly.Did you just ask if you need an alignment after changing the tie rods?
If you want your tires to point the right direction you do...
That’ll depend on how good a job you do measuring your old ones and adjusting the new ones to match. Would measure total length from mating surface at the inner end (not including the threaded stub that goes into the end of the rack unless they’re the same) to the center of the outer jointMy question’s wording didn’t really reflect what I was thinking. Should have read more like “how bad was the alignment” as in was the vehicle drivable. I’m just tying to figure out how closely they were in length to the factory tie rods. Like if I spin off the factory rod at 5 spins, will the Icon rod thread on with 5 and be pretty close, thus the “plug and play” part of my question. I do realize my question was worded stupidly.
I did mine then drove 30 miles to my dealership to get it aligned. You don't have to loosen the stock tie rods jamb nuts to get them off, just put them next to each other and try to get them as close to the same length as possible before you put the new ones on. Wasn't that bad.My question’s wording didn’t really reflect what I was thinking. Should have read more like “how bad was the alignment” as in was the vehicle drivable. I’m just tying to figure out how closely they were in length to the factory tie rods. Like if I spin off the factory rod at 5 spins, will the Icon rod thread on with 5 and be pretty close, thus the “plug and play” part of my question. I do realize my question was worded stupidly.