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Right on. I now have the delta joint upper CA'S and the rear track bar on order, along with your spacer kit until a better coilover set up comes along for my Badlands. Which I see y'all may have just announced. Any idea when you'll start deliveries of parts?
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Inlinejohn

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How/why do I choose between tubular and billet parts? Other than looks. Is it just cost?
 
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How/why do I choose between tubular and billet parts? Other than looks. Is it just cost?
While the visual differences are obvious, the functional benefits of the billet parts get pretty granular, where *most* people probably wouldn't really take advantage of the differences. Basically the billet parts offer more and easier adjustability. On the UCA's, rather than a fixed-position bushing at the pivot end, the billet ones have individually adjustable spherical bearings for fine-tuning your alignment. For most, this might not be important because you can usually dial in your alignment reasonably well using the adjusters on the bottom control arms. Likewise the rear billet links also include on-vehicle adjustability, meaning you can make adjustments to the link-length without having to remove the links from the vehicle to thread the rod ends in and out. This can be handy for compensating for taller lifts and adjusting pinion angle. The billet rear lower links also include replaceable nylon rock sliders along the bottom surface.

Bottom line is you most likely don't even need most of those features unless you're doing something out of the ordinary. If you're sticking with any of our pre-configured kits and lift heights, the tubular ones will be just fine for you. Hope that information is helpful.
 

Inlinejohn

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While the visual differences are obvious, the functional benefits of the billet parts get pretty granular, where *most* people probably wouldn't really take advantage of the differences. Basically the billet parts offer more and easier adjustability. On the UCA's, rather than a fixed-position bushing at the pivot end, the billet ones have individually adjustable spherical bearings for fine-tuning your alignment. For most, this might not be important because you can usually dial in your alignment reasonably well using the adjusters on the bottom control arms. Likewise the rear billet links also include on-vehicle adjustability, meaning you can make adjustments to the link-length without having to remove the links from the vehicle to thread the rod ends in and out. This can be handy for compensating for taller lifts and adjusting pinion angle. The billet rear lower links also include replaceable nylon rock sliders along the bottom surface.

Bottom line is you most likely don't even need most of those features unless you're doing something out of the ordinary. If you're sticking with any of our pre-configured kits and lift heights, the tubular ones will be just fine for you. Hope that information is helpful.
Very helpful and thank you for clarifying. I think the tubular component will suit me just fine. Now I just wait for your new ICON coils for Overlanders.
 

refade1

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I bought the Icon UCAs have them installed for around a month now.

They have squeaked since I installed them. Thought it would just go away on its own but I thought they were already prelubed w grease. Also... it kind sucks I have to buy the grease gun adaptor for this item separately. Since the needle is a different type of hole from a standard UCA. Would be nice for 700+ dollars paid it would already include the adaptor that is vital for its proper maintenance.

I am going to buy the recommended grease below and already ordered the adaptor hoping that resolves that squeak....

https://www.autozone.com/greases-an...PdRM-5N6gY48jdnEkEoaAh_HEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

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I bought the Icon UCAs have them installed for around a month now.

They have squeaked since I installed them. Thought it would just go away on its own but I thought they were already prelubed w grease. Also... it kind sucks I have to buy the grease gun adaptor for this item separately. Since the needle is a different type of hole from a standard UCA. Would be nice for 700+ dollars paid it would already include the adaptor that is vital for its proper maintenance.

I am going to buy the recommended grease below and already ordered the adaptor hoping that resolves that squeak....

https://www.autozone.com/greases-an...PdRM-5N6gY48jdnEkEoaAh_HEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
What grease gun did you buy? Got the UCA and wanna prepare for it
 

Chritaka

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@Dusty at ICON For the tubular UCA's, what is the degree of caster built into these? I cannot find this info. anywhere.
 
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Dusty at ICON

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@Dusty at ICON For the tubular UCA's, what is the degree of caster built into these? I cannot find this info. anywhere.
Hi there Chritaka, sorry for the delay in responding, as I haven't logged in here under my Icon account for the last few days and didn't see the notification that you had tagged me.

Anyhow, we build +1 degree of additional caster into our arms (compared to stock UCAs at stock ride height). This gets us into the optimal caster range (around 4 degrees) at ride height with the lift heights our suspension kits usually yield, around 3" or so compared to stock non-Sasquatch suspension. Hope this information is helpful.
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