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- Your Bronco Model
- Badlands
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Just wanted to share my recent install (sorry no pictures) with those who are interested in improving mid-bass (70 - 300 Hz). I have a 2023 non-B&O system. I replaced the factory sub w/6.75" kicker and 500.1 amp in the factory enclosure (sealed, polyfilled, and dynamatted), added Kicker Key 200.4, and replaced all speakers. I noticed the bass had decent boom from the sub, but it was missing the tighter snap from snare drums, etc., especially with rock music.
I put Memphis MJP6s in the kick panels (must be totally sealed with dynamat and polyfilled), which are rated for 125 watts RMS. No way the Key 200.4 could make those hit hard with 50 watts split between the kick and dash speakers. I have seen other posts where members have recommended skipping the 200.4 and going with a much larger amp for all speakers, but that means it has to go under the seat, in the glove box, etc. My goal was to get the most power possible while keeping everything hidden and out of the line of fire of my garden hose for my washout interior.
Here's how I did it:
1. I took the speaker leads to the kick panels from the Metra kick panel harness. The dash and kick panel speakers are wired in parallel at the kick panel harness, so all you are doing is taking the speaker wires that normally get plugged into the kick speakers. I spliced speaker wires onto these and ran the 2 sets of wires to a line output converter I intended to hide behind the glove box. Any small one will do as long as it can handle at least 50 watts RMS from the Key 200.4.
2. From there, I ran RCAs to a DS18 XOHV crossover (https://ds18.com/products/ds18-xohv-pre-amp-with-crossover-for-high-volt-amplifier), which is a perfect 2-channel unit with both a high and low pass filter (and is also very small).
3. I ran RCAs to an Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack (90 watts RMS x 2) (make sure you don't get the "445A"), which unlike the Key 200.4, can be bridged, and then ran that to the speakers. I looked at other 2-channel amps with more power, but they all looked too big for my intended mounting location behind the glove box. I removed the glove box and installed this on a plastic board that I ran across the two curved bars. I tucked the LOC and crossover above it.
4. I re-ran the Key 200.4 DSP with the new kick panels, which worked fine because the Alpine amp is just a "slave" amp to the Kicker. I manually adjusted the gain on the Alpine as needed. I'm still playing with crossover settings, but for now, I have the hi pass set at 70 Hz and the low pass at 300 Hz. I have the crossover mounted with the controls facing me, so all I have to do is take out the glove box (5 seconds) to adjust things.
It took a hell of a long time to do this because I had to run power cables to the battery, remote lines, grounds, and a ton of speaker wire back and forth. It probably took me 8 hours, 5 of which was just zip tying cables in impossible to reach locations.
The improvement is dramatic. The Alpine really makes the kick panels come alive and brings the bass forward to the front seat. You can feel the tighter bass in your chest. And the best part is that everything is hidden away.
I put Memphis MJP6s in the kick panels (must be totally sealed with dynamat and polyfilled), which are rated for 125 watts RMS. No way the Key 200.4 could make those hit hard with 50 watts split between the kick and dash speakers. I have seen other posts where members have recommended skipping the 200.4 and going with a much larger amp for all speakers, but that means it has to go under the seat, in the glove box, etc. My goal was to get the most power possible while keeping everything hidden and out of the line of fire of my garden hose for my washout interior.
Here's how I did it:
1. I took the speaker leads to the kick panels from the Metra kick panel harness. The dash and kick panel speakers are wired in parallel at the kick panel harness, so all you are doing is taking the speaker wires that normally get plugged into the kick speakers. I spliced speaker wires onto these and ran the 2 sets of wires to a line output converter I intended to hide behind the glove box. Any small one will do as long as it can handle at least 50 watts RMS from the Key 200.4.
2. From there, I ran RCAs to a DS18 XOHV crossover (https://ds18.com/products/ds18-xohv-pre-amp-with-crossover-for-high-volt-amplifier), which is a perfect 2-channel unit with both a high and low pass filter (and is also very small).
3. I ran RCAs to an Alpine KTP-445U Power Pack (90 watts RMS x 2) (make sure you don't get the "445A"), which unlike the Key 200.4, can be bridged, and then ran that to the speakers. I looked at other 2-channel amps with more power, but they all looked too big for my intended mounting location behind the glove box. I removed the glove box and installed this on a plastic board that I ran across the two curved bars. I tucked the LOC and crossover above it.
4. I re-ran the Key 200.4 DSP with the new kick panels, which worked fine because the Alpine amp is just a "slave" amp to the Kicker. I manually adjusted the gain on the Alpine as needed. I'm still playing with crossover settings, but for now, I have the hi pass set at 70 Hz and the low pass at 300 Hz. I have the crossover mounted with the controls facing me, so all I have to do is take out the glove box (5 seconds) to adjust things.
It took a hell of a long time to do this because I had to run power cables to the battery, remote lines, grounds, and a ton of speaker wire back and forth. It probably took me 8 hours, 5 of which was just zip tying cables in impossible to reach locations.
The improvement is dramatic. The Alpine really makes the kick panels come alive and brings the bass forward to the front seat. You can feel the tighter bass in your chest. And the best part is that everything is hidden away.
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