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negativezero

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Rear passengers think anything is too loud. The speakers are literally right by their heads. So understandable.
Very simple mod to help out with that (free, ~40 mins).
Just remove the rear seats!
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fallguy

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Rear passengers think anything is too loud. The speakers are literally right by their heads. So understandable.
Not if you don't have any. I find it ridiculous that rear sound is so neutered. There is also a setting for rear passengers or not. There should be a way without editing system files to get full sound from the back.
 

ASlaugh

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Series vs parallel is a specific electrical circuit distinction. If they were in series and you unplugged the dash speakers the kick panels would stop working. Also, it would present an 8 ohm load to the head unit. They are wired in parallel and present a resistance of 2 ohms to the head unit (in theory as speakers present a reactive load that varies upon frequency).
If you use the Metra adapter, it takes care of the wiring for you and keeps the wiring in parallel. The issue is if you use speakers or components with impedance at <4ohms. This will cause the impedance per channel to go below 2 ohms total, which can create too much current from the head unit.
It also means that installing bass blockers at the 4" speakers won't any any affect on the kick panel speakers. If they were in series the filter would affect all of the speakers on the channel.
 

a94cobra

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I think most speakers in the mid range are 4 ohm. So most times thats not even an issue. Not that you are wrong on what you are saying. And if you add a separate tweeter, it doesn't matter really matter on the load.
 

FastFastFast

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Yeah, I did the speedo recalibration, panic button, seatbelt minder, auto start stop, rear eq, and a few other things. You do need the test version. And I believe, the last official is unsigned and out of Russia as well. You will have to forego using Forscan if that bothers you
Can you point me in the direction of the "speedo recalibration, panic button, seatbelt minder, auto start stop" instructions?

I tried searching the forum and all i could find was your comment.

Thanks!!
 

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RainbowStix

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Signal Ahead

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Trying to determine audio difference via video is a tricky thing...

In real life how much of a difference do you feel they made? I have tried two different brands that other users said made a difference. I trialed them with 3 different people and everyone agreed they made zero difference.
Agree completely! I ated a lot of money on Kickers and wound up going back to the the factory speakers in teh end. The true issue is the back has 50 percent of yeh damn signa cut off. What a joke! Who has ever heard of a 6 speaker set upsounding like crap? With a 50 percentile cut you def can't run an amp off teh back speakers and it you wanna run off teh front you have do both sides for left and rigth and run all thsoe wires back to the rear! insane in the membrane! The only thing that sound right out there is the Kicker key option
 

ASlaugh

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If you want to make your own. I posted the connectors, pins and pigtails I bought in a different thread. Here is a link to that thread

IMG_7308.JPG
I have multiple options with bass blockers. All wrapped in cloth tap for factory looks too.
eBay look up FastDaddy.
If you don't see the options you want, such as 4.8mm spade connector, send me a message.
 

Awsum_Al

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Anyone else have this DTC after making the change in Forscan? I just noticed it. All 6 speakers are connected and working fine. It won’t clear.

ACM: Code: B1A06 - Speaker #6 Additional Fault

Symptom: - Circuit Open

Status:
- DTC Present at Time of Request
- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC

Module: Audio Control Module (ACM)
Hey redone17,

I recently upgraded my speakers to the Kicker KS series; 4" in the dash, 6.75 in the kick panel, and 6.5 in the Mabett rear speaker pods. I then did the 382B to 3800 Forscan mod. The sound didn't seem quite right to me and I was getting the B1A06 Fault.

After searching other boards, I found a spreadsheet on the F150 board that works for our Broncos. I will post a link at the bottom.

Anyhow the 3800 I had entered before, told the system that I had a center speaker (#6).

Since I now have full range speakers, front and rear, I needed to open up the rear. 727-01-01 382B sets the radio for speaker and tweeter in the front. The next part for me was 14F1, this had the rear speakers set to tweeter only. The equalizer setting is the fourth digit of 727-01-02 0902 (my original) and a flat EQ it is set to 0. So here are the changes that I made that got rid of the error code and improved the sound:

727-01-01 382B 28F1 00--
727-01-02 0900 00AA 00--

The next step is to install an old Rockford Fosgate R400-4D that I have had sitting on a shelf for a few years.


 

Awsum_Al

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Hey redone17,

I recently upgraded my speakers to the Kicker KS series; 4" in the dash, 6.75 in the kick panel, and 6.5 in the Mabett rear speaker pods. I then did the 382B to 3800 Forscan mod. The sound didn't seem quite right to me and I was getting the B1A06 Fault.

After searching other boards, I found a spreadsheet on the F150 board that works for our Broncos. I will post a link at the bottom.

Anyhow the 3800 I had entered before, told the system that I had a center speaker (#6).

Since I now have full range speakers, front and rear, I needed to open up the rear. 727-01-01 382B sets the radio for speaker and tweeter in the front. The next part for me was 14F1, this had the rear speakers set to tweeter only. The equalizer setting is the fourth digit of 727-01-02 0902 (my original) and a flat EQ it is set to 0. So here are the changes that I made that got rid of the error code and improved the sound:

727-01-01 382B 28F1 00--
727-01-02 0900 00AA 00--

The next step is to install an old Rockford Fosgate R400-4D that I have had sitting on a shelf for a few years.


I undid the change I made to 727-01-02 to get occupancy mode back and it sounds about the same. I definitely need to install the amp.
 

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da_jokker

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Hey redone17,

I recently upgraded my speakers to the Kicker KS series; 4" in the dash, 6.75 in the kick panel, and 6.5 in the Mabett rear speaker pods. I then did the 382B to 3800 Forscan mod. The sound didn't seem quite right to me and I was getting the B1A06 Fault.

After searching other boards, I found a spreadsheet on the F150 board that works for our Broncos. I will post a link at the bottom.

Anyhow the 3800 I had entered before, told the system that I had a center speaker (#6).

Since I now have full range speakers, front and rear, I needed to open up the rear. 727-01-01 382B sets the radio for speaker and tweeter in the front. The next part for me was 14F1, this had the rear speakers set to tweeter only. The equalizer setting is the fourth digit of 727-01-02 0902 (my original) and a flat EQ it is set to 0. So here are the changes that I made that got rid of the error code and improved the sound:

727-01-01 382B 28F1 00--
727-01-02 0900 00AA 00--

The next step is to install an old Rockford Fosgate R400-4D that I have had sitting on a shelf for a few years.


I was reading that same spreadsheet, and came to the same conclusion... The people are not messing with the right codes and playing with the front speakers instead ofthe back speakers.

But then I ran into a snag... On the F-150 forums, if you can find the full spreadsheet, you'll see there are actually three tabs for the ACM And they are grouped by years. The definition of how the codes break down completely change in the newer models.

Now of course none of these are for the Bronco, and if you look up a ranger they're completely different as well.

My point being, it's hard to know what the proper digit definition/lookup should be for a 21+ Bronco.

In 1 speadsheet, those 2nd groups of numbers have nothing to do with the rear speakers, and the Front group is now associated with both front and rear.

To confusing!
 

Awsum_Al

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I was reading that same spreadsheet, and came to the same conclusion... The people are not messing with the right codes and playing with the front speakers instead ofthe back speakers.

But then I ran into a snag... On the F-150 forums, if you can find the full spreadsheet, you'll see there are actually three tabs for the ACM And they are grouped by years. The definition of how the codes break down completely change in the newer models.

Now of course none of these are for the Bronco, and if you look up a ranger they're completely different as well.

My point being, it's hard to know what the proper digit definition/lookup should be for a 21+ Bronco.

In 1 speadsheet, those 2nd groups of numbers have nothing to do with the rear speakers, and the Front group is now associated with both front and rear.

To confusing!
What started my search for a better explanation for the ACM changes, was when I made the "recommended" change from xx2B to xx00 and started seeing an open speaker 6 error, which corresponds to the settings in the spreadsheet I posted. So, I am convinced that this is correct for the six-speaker system in our Broncos.
 

stubbzilla

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\
First as per Crutchfields directions I purchased an AMP install kit, hooked up power directly to the battery with 10 gauge wire and in inline fuse that came in the kit. Ran that wire through the firewall. There is a rubber plug in the firewall that leads to an easy access spot under the dash on the drivers side. The plug is oval in shape and is located between the master cylinder and the fender on the drivers side(pic). I plan to drill a small hole in the rubber plug for the wire to pass through and then use black silicone to seal around the wire, for now i just wedged it in a corner as it was late last night lol. All wires run just under the kick panel speaker and under the door sill panel to get to under the seat. For the speaker wires I used wire taps (supplied by Crutchfield) to tap the speaker wire of the kick panel speaker. You only need one channel lead to power a subwoofer. Of course a ground wire I attached to one of the rear seat bolts of the drivers seat. The final connection so you have Auto On/Off of the subwoofer is an ignition power source. By using an Add a Fuse from any parts store you can use one of the fuse locations in the fuse box to tap a line just for power that comes on with ignition. Fuse box is easy to access and the panel blow the steering wheel exposes easy access as it is just in there with clips. Start at the top of the panel and pull out as it is hinged at the bottom and just folds down, exposing the fuse panel. I used fuse location #37. Pics are in order and are after install as I did not photo while doing the work. Hope this helps and any other questions please let me know.
tempImageUwgz4I.png
tempImageeZ7ArI.png

I am following your lead purchased the same sub, amp install wires and the same dash speakers. I have a dumb question though for connecting the sub, how do you connect the much larger Amp Power cable from Crutchfield to the smaller power wire to the sub wiring harness? I've installed all the 4 inch speakers and its already made a difference, thanks for your post!
 

AutoTerry

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I am following your lead purchased the same sub, amp install wires and the same dash speakers. I have a dumb question though for connecting the sub, how do you connect the much larger Amp Power cable from Crutchfield to the smaller power wire to the sub wiring harness? I've installed all the 4 inch speakers and its already made a difference, thanks for your post!
I ran the power cable directly from the battery to the sub, the firewall has a few areas to run the cable through. Then as the cable is larger I used a size to match butt connector for the large cable and then just did I good job crimping the smaller wire to the sub. It worked fine and then to secure both ends used some liquid electrical tape off Amazon to seal both ends. Any other questions let me know and enjoy. The bronco now has a better sound system than our Harmon Kardon system in our BMW X5! Good luck
 

redone17

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@Awsum_Al - with those new settings - do you expect to need hi-pass filters/bass blockers for the rear pods?

I’m thinking of upgrading to 6.5” back there to balance things out now that the front is dialed in with better kickers.
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