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Wildtrak
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Any noise issues? I'm hearing lots of chatter about clicking with the Dana and RCV axles (29 spline).
I haven’t really heard from anyone NOT experiencing noise out of their RCV’s (on the 6th gen anyway) but have heard relatively good things about the spicer extremes (both 29 and 32 spline)
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Bikeric

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The RCV's for solid axles are an entirely different animal than the ones for the Bronco.

I've run RCV's on most all my Jeeps, (3 of 4 at the moment) and Yup , You gotta grease them regularly, I put about 6 pumps in the zerk after every wheeling trip.

The Bronco RCV's don't have any grease fittings, and don't use the Ball/Boot setup that their solid axle shaft setups do, So actually are "Maintenance Free" as far as that goes..
That's good to know, because I was very turned off by RCV's due to his experience (even though they keep him from breaking axles like he used to do).
 

Bmadda

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The RCV's for solid axles are an entirely different animal than the ones for the Bronco.

I've run RCV's on most all my Jeeps, (3 of 4 at the moment) and Yup , You gotta grease them regularly, I put about 6 pumps in the zerk after every wheeling trip.

The Bronco RCV's don't have any grease fittings, and don't use the Ball/Boot setup that their solid axle shaft setups do, So actually are "Maintenance Free" as far as that goes..
Also worth noting that the grease used in true cvs like we have IS NOT ordinary wheel bearing grease! It's a special CV grease specifically for that application (if you have ever tried washing off your hands when they are covered in it you know this). Using conventional wheel bearing grease in a CV will lead to premature wear and failure!
 

Gtrekker

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No I didn't break any of the stock sasquatch drivetrain with the 37s...but in preparation for 40s I decided to upgrade the FDU and CV axles while doing a gear swap.

The spicer ULTIMATE 44 AdvanTEC FDU is available now with Heavy Duty 32 spline axle shafts and steel tube for extra strength. These come with a electronic locker in many ratios. The case is a different casting and has solid rubber bushings.

The swap took me an afternoon by myself and is fairly easy to do.

The CV axles are much bigger in critical areas and I noticed the extra angle available when installing them. The boots are very superior to the OEM ones and allow more clearance around the shock base.

I've included this link from spicers install video.

I'll keep this post updated with long term feedback and putting this new stuff to the test with 40 " tires.

Here's a few pics. And part numbers.

Nick over at the Spicer team has been very responsive and helpful with the production updates. (Fords ProCal tool and tune was the bottleneck on lower gearsets).

I was able to sell my used m210 FDU and rear gears to a member and recouped about 25% of the cost of these expensive parts.
So that is a real bonus.

Jeep JL rear gearsets for the m220 d44 axle do work, however the pinion bearing supplied in the rebuild kits is incorrect for the Bronco. Jeep uses a double row of ball bearings instead of a regular roller bearing like Ford. Be aware of this different part if you do a rear re-gear.

This is also the most perfect time to do a diff drop with spacers and new front bracket....far easier with the FDU removed to modify the rear upper pinion mount on the FDU.



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Great info!!!! Thank you...

I'm running SAS with 37"s now. I have the AFC fenders 8"/1" on the way. Plan to move up to 40"s with drivetrain upgrades and gearing. I plan on doing the install and lift at the same time.

What made you go with the gearing you chose and what size lift are you considering for the 40s?
 

popo_patty

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Anyone have an angle comparison between M210 shafts and Spicer shafts? Would love to see a real world example of the extra articulation/angle they offer
 

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BigMeatsBronco

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Great info!!!! Thank you...

I'm running SAS with 37"s now. I have the AFC fenders 8"/1" on the way. Plan to move up to 40"s with drivetrain upgrades and gearing. I plan on doing the install and lift at the same time.

What made you go with the gearing you chose and what size lift are you considering for the 40s?
I'm not running much of a lift. re-drilled rear shock mount for maybe 2 inches and 2 "spacer in the front.

the 40s are working excellent with 5.38s
 

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I'm not running much of a lift. re-drilled rear shock mount for maybe 2 inches and 2 "spacer in the front.

the 40s are working excellent with 5.38s
Hey, so other than the 5.38 gears and the shock reposition that's all you did?

Are you running 40/13.50/17?
Crash bar delete?

I've been running 37 K02s with no lift, no levelers. Looks like if I add 40"s I will go up an 1.5" from the tire.

With the AFC Fenders looks like I would be good for normal driving and lite off roading.

I going to test my full articulation with the 37s and check clearance for travel.

Thoughts and maybe a link to the axle, gear info?

Thanks,👍👍
 
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Hey, so other than the 5.38 gears and the shock reposition that's all you did?

Are you running 40/13.50/17?
Crash bar delete?

I've been running 37 K02s with no lift, no levelers. Looks like if I add 40"s I will go up an 1.5" from the tire.

With the AFC Fenders looks like I would be good for normal driving and lite off roading.

I going to test my full articulation with the 37s and check clearance for travel.

Thoughts and maybe a link to the axle, gear info?

Thanks,👍👍
38s are the max I'd recommend for 99% of folks.

40s requires extensive cutting and repositioning of the battery, airbox, module, wiring, inner fender removal, cut off crash bars flush, trimming up front body mount. It's all in my thread with 40s.

I raised the fenders arc almost 2 inches.

I do have full articulation and they don't rub anywhere but the frame rail at full lock (this can be alleviated with spacers or longer a-arms)
 

Bird Dog Off Road

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Can you provide a link to the Rear ring and pinion you got. Google isn't being useful and I'm sure what is compatible with the factory rear or not.

For the Front, I'm debating on the Dana FDU or using the BroncBuster diff tube and RCV axles.
 

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Can you provide a link to the Rear ring and pinion you got. Google isn't being useful and I'm sure what is compatible with the factory rear or not.

For the Front, I'm debating on the Dana FDU or using the BroncBuster diff tube and RCV axles.
The diff tube is a waste of money, the failures of the intermediate shaft have occurred without destroying the cast aluminum housing. The issue is no one has made an upgraded shaft yet. The shaft is twisting at the splines. The only solution I would buy into is a full splined 300m shaft with more bearing support(current bearings have some pretty loose tolerances since they don't use a race).
Ford Bronco Installed 5.38s and Spicer Ultimate  44 FDU  and Extreme CVs 32 spline 1691423776142


 
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BigMeatsBronco

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The diff tube is a waste of money, the failures of the intermediate shaft have occurred without destroying the cast aluminum housing. The issue is no one has made an upgraded shaft yet. The shaft is twisting at the splines. The only solution I would buy into is a full splined 300m shaft with more bearing support(current bearings have some pretty loose tolerances since they don't use a race).
1691423776142.png


This is exactly why I chose the spicer....It does have upgraded splines 32 instead of OEM 29, the diameter is obviously larger as well. and on the inside of the cv they use 35 splines. The aluminum tube is replaced with cast steel and the outer bearing is bigger.
 

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This is exactly why I chose the spicer....It does have upgraded splines 32 instead of OEM 29, the diameter is obviously larger as well. and on the inside of the cv they use 35 splines. The aluminum tube is replaced with cast steel and the outer bearing is bigger.
Where did you get the ring and Pinion for the rear? Dana has two different ones listed (both for Jeeps) on their site.
 
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