Installed 5.38s and Spicer Ultimate 44 FDU and Extreme CVs 32 spline

[Bmadda]

ok, correction...the shaft MAY NOT have been installed correctly (by me) ...
after disassembley and close inspection the spline wear shows that itbwas never seated properly to begin with.

Spicer instructions are a bit vague, here even tho they say "make sure the CV is completely inserted" mine felt like it had clipped in when it was really 1/4 out!!! most likely put 10k miles on it and even a trip to Moab with it not seated all the way in.

the tell tale sign is the reveal behind the CV cup and between the FDU case.

as you can see in the picture it's now that it's seated correctly there is not much more room than the end of a ballpoint pen. Anyone doing this swap should take note of this critical area and make sure the axle is in place. I was damn certain I had it far enough as I used a big slam Hammer to force it in, on the original install, but apparently didn't quite get it far enough in. I even tried to yankbit back out and it did seem seated properly, but was NOT.

On another note you can see that the snap ring that is provided by Spicer is too narrow for the end of the axle bar. I plan on upgrading the snap rings to double thickness to a heavier Duty unit which will withstand a bit more in end Force especially during wheel stroke or full travel.
Overall
,I am very impressed with the internals of the CV axle assemblies themselves they are indeed extreme Duty the axle shafts are 1.5 in in diameter and 35 splines the same as a true one ton Dana 60. The race and star are exceptionally sized and the balls are a bit over 1 inch in diameter making this CV joint as strong or stronger than a 934 in my honest opinion which is extremely good for the price point.
Here are a few snapshots.

I'm gonna run this side a while and check it often and see if it pops out in the future. I

View attachment 566148

Those aren't "snap rings" they are called "circlips" don't use bigger ones or you will never be able to disassemble it again!

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[BAUS67]

Those aren't "snap rings" they are called "circlips" don't use bigger ones or you will never be able to disassemble it again!

I was thinking to myself, as I was reading his post, boy they look "normal" to me. At times I have a hard time with those, if it were a much bigger snap ring they would be near impossible.

 

[Snacktime]

I was thinking of installing passenger side outer bearing into the driver's side and having the seal hold it in with a spacer.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Those aren't "snap rings" they are called "circlips" don't use bigger ones or you will never be able to disassemble it again!

they use snap ring pliers for these last time I checked...this is INSIDE the joint not on the stub. this part can be as big as you want w/o any issues with disassembley, the brass one I think your referring to is indeed a different story.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I was thinking to myself, as I was reading his post, boy they look "normal" to me. At times I have a hard time with those, if it were a much bigger snap ring they would be near impossible.

the snap ring is too narrow not to small in diameter.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I probably put too many pictures in too much information in one post. This is a picture of the stub axle and the brass circlip your both referring to.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I was thinking of installing passenger side outer bearing into the driver's side and having the seal hold it in with a spacer.

I believe there is room for a special bearing with a seal on one side...I was thinking of making a bolt on fork that holds the bearing into the case...The tolerances from the axle stub OD to the inside of the differentials carrier is quite tight, and I suppose that's mostly why I see virtually zero wear even though it rides on or is supported by the inside of the carrier, obviously the spider gear supports the end of the stub axle.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Glad you haven’t had any issues. I broke a 32spline cv on a very easy trail right after installing. They think it was a bad clip but not sure yet.

as you can see from my pictures the snap ring that holds the star onto the end of the axle bar is too thin for thr size of the reveal or slot. I plan to use spiroloc rings here and ordered some already. For those that are wondering how this comes apart, on the inner CV, there is a large "C" ring circlip that fits externally into a groove inside the CV cup...it retains the balls from sliding all the way out of the troughs...so once the big ring is removed (flathead screwdriver works well) the joint slips apart. this is a far better design than the old tri-pod inner joints of early IFS designs had. Now I'm wondering (and hoping) that the outer CV joint comes apart the same way???

 

[Turbo yzel]

Sorry if this is a derailment of thread
But after reading these 8 pages I learned a lot about my new platform

are the raptor CV axles longer or have more angle?
seems like from reading that they are the same 210 as all the Sasquatch packages with 4.70 gearing

I’d really like to upgrade this front end and steering before getting out on more serious trails

thanks for any raptor specific info compared to this new upgraded 220 set up
Also any link to these diff drop mounts ?

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Sorry if this is a derailment of thread
But after reading these 8 pages I learned a lot about my new platform

are the raptor CV axles longer or have more angle?
seems like from reading that they are the same 210 as all the Sasquatch packages with 4.70 gearing

I’d really like to upgrade this front end and steering before getting out on more serious trails

thanks for any raptor specific info compared to this new upgraded 220 set up
Also any link to these diff drop mounts ?

Braptor axle bars between the CVs are about 3" longer. the biggest difference is the Braptor has a very dumb vacume operated axle disconnect bon BOTH sides at the wheel end ...this has been a somewhat problematic design on the Raptor F150s

 

[Turbo yzel]

So if I were to try and upgrade
There would be no place for the old vacuum lines to go
Or some sort of check engine light or warning light issue to try and defeat ?
Coming from race cars this seems like a common issue lol
The 3” makes sense from the wider track of the Braptor

 

[Turbo yzel]

I’m also guessing since the raptor CV axles are 3 inches longer
That the upgraded 32 spline axles would not be the right length

Is there anyone who has tried to swap or any other thread
That may have more information?

I’d really like to do some big cross country trips
But I really don’t feel like having a CV axle or tie rod issue in the middle of nowhere by myself

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I’m also guessing since the raptor CV axles are 3 inches longer
That the upgraded 32 spline axles would not be the right length

Is there anyone who has tried to swap or any other thread
That may have more information?

I’d really like to do some big cross country trips
But I really don’t feel like having a CV axle or tie rod issue in the middle of nowhere by myself

here is my solution when I do longer travel arms soon.

to clarify the 32 splines stub shaft is an upgrade from the OEM 29 spline. this upgrade is inside the diffs carrier. the axle bars (between the CVs) are GIANT 35 splines.


https://www.polyperformance.com/spidertrax-ultimate-35-spline-300m-full-float-axle-shafts

or



https://swayaway.com/product/axle-set-custom-order-porsche-935-35-tooth-half-domed-ends-300m/

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

So if I were to try and upgrade
There would be no place for the old vacuum lines to go
Or some sort of check engine light or warning light issue to try and defeat ?
Coming from race cars this seems like a common issue lol
The 3” makes sense from the wider track of the Braptor

RCV makes F150 raptor HD CVs...with a delete for this vacuum operated "FAD".
It's possible that they will do the same for the Braptor.

 

[Turbo yzel]

I’ll look into it
Thank you for the info

my other thought was to call the guys at drive shaft shop inc
The got some nice custom made stuff

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