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james1414d

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I got the same cover on Ebay for 70$ a couple weeks ago. I don't see the need to put sealant on a reusable gasket, but whateves. It does look good on there and is pretty heavy-duty for sure. Also, I didn't need to remove the track bar.
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Peter Gosenya

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Too bad it doesn’t have a drain plug. Good for going backwards up trails and banging into rocks.
 

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Thanks for the detailed write up. I’ve been debating on which cover to get - but, ultimately am curious on oil change interval. I planned on 20k for my first one - which I recently hit. After that?

Any point in oil upgrades?
 

BHD2012

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After much research, I found a cheaper alternative to the ford performance M220 diff cover. The rear Dana 44 installed in our broncos is nearly identical to the rear axle used in the Wrangler JL Jeep.

At $140.76 for the Dana Spicer OEM cover (Part # 10040651), it is far cheaper than what you pay for the Ford Performance Parts M220 diff cover at $295 (Part # M-4033-R). You are basically paying for a sticker!

IMG_2438.jpeg
IMG_2437.jpeg


Here are a few things you'll need before the installation:

2 Quarts of 75w-85 Motorcraft Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant (Part # XY75W85QL)
1 Rear differential cover gasket (Part # 4036)

Tools Needed for the installation:
A pair of safety glasses
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive impact gun
3/8" drive short extension
1/2" drive impact gun
10 mm deep socket (3/8" drive)
13 mm deep socket (3/8" drive)
15/16 Deep socket (1/2" drive)
Small pry bar
Gasket scraper
Razor blade
Torque wrench capable of 20-25 Ft-lbs
Oil pan
Rags
Acetone or some other solvent to clean the mating surface of oils
#268 lock tight or something similar for when we install the OEM plug and two 13mm bolts in the Dana cover

IMG_2461.jpeg


Start by parking on a flat surface. Place your oil pan under the differential in preparation for draining. You'll need to remove two plastic clips on studs that support the rear brake lines.

IMG_2442.jpeg


After removing the plastic clips, remove the cover bolts with a 10 mm socket. Be very careful while using an impact gun on the housing. You will need a short extension and a 13mm deep socket to remove the bolts with studs for the plastic clips. Save these, as we will reuse them during our installation of the dana cover. When removing the cover, a small pry bar may be necessary to break the seal between the cover and housing. Be careful not to damage the rear cover gasket, as it is reusable per the ford maintenance manual. If the gasket is damaged or you bought a new one, disregard this statement above, as you'll be changing it out anyway.

IMG_2443.jpeg
IMG_2444.jpeg

IMG_2464.jpg


Visually inspect the mating surface for pitting or damage, and clean it with a rag and mild solvent. Inspect the rear drive gear and its components for any unusual wear or damaged teeth.

IMG_2446.jpeg


Clean the reusable gasket as needed. You will now begin to prep the dana cover for installation.

IMG_2445.jpeg


Remove the fill plug from the OEM cover, as it has a magnetic plug. We will replace the dana fill plug with the OEM plug to gain the magnet, hopefully preventing metal shaving from collecting in the bottom of the axle housing. Take your time to clean metal shavings on the magnet from the break-in process when you first got your bronco.

IMG_2447.jpeg

IMG_2448.jpeg


Pictured above are the ten 10mm dana bolts that come with the cover and the two 13mm bolts with studs used for the plastic brake line clips.

IMG_2439.jpeg

IMG_2451.jpeg

IMG_2452.jpeg


Using the provided gasket maker from Dana, we will run a bead along the inside of the gasket on both sides. This will help tack the gasket in place, making it easier to install the gasket and cover together while keeping the holes lined up.

IMG_2454.jpeg


Using a 1/2" drive impact gun, remove the passenger side 15/16" bolt on the panhard bar. We will need to move the panhard bar out of the way slightly to install the dana cover easily.

IMG_2453.jpeg


Using a bolt on top of the housing to loosely hold the cover in place, begin to install the provided dana bolts hand-tight.

IMG_2455.jpeg


Torque the bolts to 20-25 ft-lbs, and be sure to tighten these bolts down to compress the gasket evenly. I worked in a 12- to 6 o'clock pattern for all bolts.
Note: These bolts are very easy to snap. Do not over-torque!

IMG_2456.jpeg


Thankfully I had two extra dana bolts because of the 13mm studs we are reusing from the OEM cover.

IMG_2457.jpeg


Clean up any gasket maker that might squeeze out with a rag.

IMG_2458.jpeg


Push the plastic clips back onto their studs.

IMG_2459.jpeg


Fill with approx. 2 quarts of 75w-85 gear lube. Using the bottom hole in the cover, Fill until the lubricant begins to come out. There might be residual gear lube left inside the housing, so the total amount needed to fill the housing completely could be slightly less than 2 quarts. Once full reinstall the 15/16" bolt of the Panhard bar.

IMG_2462.jpeg


Install the plugs with some of the #268 lock tight and torque them to about 25-30 ft-lbs.


Monitor for leaks after driving, and it might be a good idea to re-torque the bolts after a few hundred miles just to be safe.
Excellent detailed write up! I don't plan on doing this mod anytime soon (...for my wife, if she's lurking), but your write up and the corresponding discussions have answered many questions. Thank you for your contribution.
 
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Nchiappetta5

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Thanks for the detailed write up. I’ve been debating on which cover to get - but, ultimately am curious on oil change interval. I planned on 20k for my first one - which I recently hit. After that?

Any point in oil upgrades?
I’m at 18k and so long as I have a warranty I’ll continue to use the 75w-85 gear lube from motor craft. The oil looked really clean when I cracked the diff open. Make sure it’s on a flat surface so the axel is level which will allow you to get the 2 full quarts in.
 

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Nchiappetta5

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I got the same cover on Ebay for 70$ a couple weeks ago. I don't see the need to put sealant on a reusable gasket, but whateves. It does look good on there and is pretty heavy-duty for sure. Also, I didn't need to remove the track bar.
The gasket maker was double duty for me. It helped hold the gasket in place while turning the cover sideways to get it into position and I’ll have some peace of mind until the next oil change when I plan on replacing the gasket. For $20 it seems like an easy item to reuse once and replace to avoid leaks down the road.
 

redone17

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Full part number for gasket is KB3Z-4036-A, correct?
 

redone17

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Yes. I’ll update that. On ford parts it just shows 4036 in the exploded view.
Cool. Thanks.

I think if I was to install the same cover - I would feel comfortable reusing the gasket (at least once). But, by putting on a new one - new mating surface, I feel better about starting fresh. I went with the ARB. $185 shipped from CJ Pony.
 

mike8675309

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The gasket maker was double duty for me. It helped hold the gasket in place while turning the cover sideways to get it into position and I’ll have some peace of mind until the next oil change when I plan on replacing the gasket. For $20 it seems like an easy item to reuse once and replace to avoid leaks down the road.
Unfortunately, that isn't how reusable gaskets or gasket makers work. You may get away with it, but keep your eyes out for any weeping around the cover. Reuseable gaskets like the one ford provide are designed to be flexible and continue to seal as temperature changes increase or decrease clearance in the joint they are sealing. Adding additional material there will hinder the gasket's ability to do as designed. This could lead to drips. Generally, you should use one or the other.

Ideally, you would have checked the flatness of the flange on that new cover. That would have helped you understand if the gasket alone could be used or if you would need to toss the gasket and instead use just the gasket maker. The gasket maker allows for more variation in surface flatness than the gasket itself might allow, which is why Spicer included the gasket maker.
 

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After much research, I found a cheaper alternative to the ford performance M220 diff cover. The rear Dana 44 installed in our broncos is nearly identical to the rear axle used in the Wrangler JL Jeep.

At $140.76 for the Dana Spicer OEM cover (Part # 10040651), it is far cheaper than what you pay for the Ford Performance Parts M220 diff cover at $295 (Part # M-4033-R). You are basically paying for a sticker!

IMG_2438.jpeg
IMG_2437.jpeg


Here are a few things you'll need before the installation:

2 Quarts of 75w-85 Motorcraft Synthetic Hypoid Gear Lubricant (Part # XY75W85QL)
1 Rear differential cover gasket (Part # KB3Z-4036-A )

Tools Needed for the installation:
A pair of safety glasses
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive impact gun
3/8" drive short extension
1/2" drive impact gun
10 mm deep socket (3/8" drive)
13 mm deep socket (3/8" drive)
15/16 Deep socket (1/2" drive)
Small pry bar
Gasket scraper
Razor blade
Torque wrench capable of 20-25 Ft-lbs
Oil pan
Rags
Acetone or some other solvent to clean the mating surface of oils
#268 lock tight or something similar for when we install the OEM plug and two 13mm bolts in the Dana cover

IMG_2461.jpeg


Start by parking on a flat surface. Place your oil pan under the differential in preparation for draining. You'll need to remove two plastic clips on studs that support the rear brake lines.

IMG_2442.jpeg


After removing the plastic clips, remove the cover bolts with a 10 mm socket. Be very careful while using an impact gun on the housing. You will need a short extension and a 13mm deep socket to remove the bolts with studs for the plastic clips. Save these, as we will reuse them during our installation of the dana cover. When removing the cover, a small pry bar may be necessary to break the seal between the cover and housing. Be careful not to damage the rear cover gasket, as it is reusable per the ford maintenance manual. If the gasket is damaged or you bought a new one, disregard this statement above, as you'll be changing it out anyway.

IMG_2443.jpeg
IMG_2444.jpeg

IMG_2464.jpg


Visually inspect the mating surface for pitting or damage, and clean it with a rag and mild solvent. Inspect the rear drive gear and its components for any unusual wear or damaged teeth.

IMG_2446.jpeg


Clean the reusable gasket as needed. You will now begin to prep the dana cover for installation.

IMG_2445.jpeg


Remove the fill plug from the OEM cover, as it has a magnetic plug. We will replace the dana fill plug with the OEM plug to gain the magnet, hopefully preventing metal shaving from collecting in the bottom of the axle housing. Take your time to clean metal shavings on the magnet from the break-in process when you first got your bronco.

IMG_2447.jpeg

IMG_2448.jpeg


Pictured above are the ten 10mm dana bolts that come with the cover and the two 13mm bolts with studs used for the plastic brake line clips.

IMG_2439.jpeg

IMG_2451.jpeg

IMG_2452.jpeg


Using the provided gasket maker from Dana, we will run a bead along the inside of the gasket on both sides. This will help tack the gasket in place, making it easier to install the gasket and cover together while keeping the holes lined up.

IMG_2454.jpeg


Using a 1/2" drive impact gun, remove the passenger side 15/16" bolt on the panhard bar. We will need to move the panhard bar out of the way slightly to install the dana cover easily.

IMG_2453.jpeg


Using a bolt on top of the housing to loosely hold the cover in place, begin to install the provided dana bolts hand-tight.

IMG_2455.jpeg


Torque the bolts to 20-25 ft-lbs, and be sure to tighten these bolts down to compress the gasket evenly. I worked in a 12- to 6 o'clock pattern for all bolts.
Note: These bolts are very easy to snap. Do not over-torque!

IMG_2456.jpeg


Thankfully I had two extra dana bolts because of the 13mm studs we are reusing from the OEM cover.

IMG_2457.jpeg


Clean up any gasket maker that might squeeze out with a rag.

IMG_2458.jpeg


Push the plastic clips back onto their studs.

IMG_2459.jpeg


Fill with approx. 2 quarts of 75w-85 gear lube. Using the bottom hole in the cover, Fill until the lubricant begins to come out. There might be residual gear lube left inside the housing, so the total amount needed to fill the housing completely could be slightly less than 2 quarts. Once full reinstall the 15/16" bolt of the Panhard bar.

IMG_2462.jpeg


Install the plugs with some of the #268 lock tight and torque them to about 25-30 ft-lbs.


Monitor for leaks after driving, and it might be a good idea to re-torque the bolts after a few hundred miles just to be safe.
[/QUOTE
Question... I'm just wondering why it was indicated that someone would need a gasket, when the shop manual indicates that the gasket is to be reused unless damaged? Additionally, I'm wondering why you chose to use gasket sealer on a gasket that was meant to be used without sealer? I already had my cover off because I wanted to change the fluid, and it was in great shape...I chose to reuse it even though I had a spare gasket on the bench. Since then I've had no leaks. Were you using Steeler just as an added precaution? The factory gasket also has smaller holes In several bolt locations so it's intended to be held onto the cover with a tight tolerance on several of the bolts so no gasket sealer is needed.
 

broncorik

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I never saw the point of replacing a rear diff cover that did not have a drain plug. Pictured below is what I ran on my GEN2 Raptor and this looks like it would fit a base bronco >> https://www.ballisticfabrication.co...ducts/jeep-rubicon-dana-44-differential-cover

#Nchiappetta5 ... I assume the torque specs called for 20-25? I have installed diff covers on my GEN1 and GEN2 Raptor and the torque was around 17ft-pounds.

Same has happened to others on F150 Raptor forum, once you get above 20, you snap those bolts.

Also, I always ran some stainless bolts like these

1677289124867.png






1677288593849.png
Ford does not list a torque spec for the diff cover bolts...they have a number of rotational degrees that are supposed to be followed when doing the final tightening sequence. I believe it is somewhere in the realm of 13 to 15 or 15 to 17 after factoring in the degrees of torque and then checking it with a torque wrench but I'll have to hunt for the shop manual diagrams.
 

broncorik

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Ford does not list a torque spec for the diff cover bolts...they have a number of rotational degrees that are supposed to be followed when doing the final tightening sequence. I believe it is somewhere in the realm of 13 to 15 or 15 to 17 after factoring in the degrees of torque and then checking it with a torque wrench but I'll have to hunt for the shop manual diagrams.
Bingo! This...

Ford Bronco Installed: Dana 44 M220 AdvanTek Nodular Differential Cover (From Jeep JL Wrangler) -- DIY Screenshot_20221017-065053_Chrome (1)
 
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Nchiappetta5

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Ford does not list a torque spec for the diff cover bolts...they have a number of rotational degrees that are supposed to be followed when doing the final tightening sequence. I believe it is somewhere in the realm of 13 to 15 or 15 to 17 after factoring in the degrees of torque and then checking it with a torque wrench but I'll have to hunt for the shop manual diagrams.
please let me know. I used the dana spec sheet for rebuilding an m220 rear axle on a jeep JL.
So 14.75 ft lbs then 25 degrees...
It looks like ill be redoing this install. I used the information on dana's website and referenced the ford shop manual to find a happy medium, but after more research, id feel better replacing the gasket with a fresh one instead of reusing it.
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