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Is the 2.3 going to be the reliable offroad engine vs the 2.7?

Mr. Nice

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I s'pose you also subscribe to the theory that smaller engines won't last making that kinda power....? 🤷
Not necessarily. If the 2.3 had the more up to date injection system I would be more inclined to endorse it. It will slowly lose power and have small drivability issues over time until you hit it with a walnut blaster. Then the cycle starts again.

I just like the extra torque and a few more ponies of the 2.7

On the other hand it's hard to argue that a engine will have a better chance of going extra miles if it's not being pushed closer to the top of it's limits.
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Not necessarily. If the 2.3 had the more up to date injection system I would be more inclined to endorse it. It will slowly lose power and have small drivability issues over time until you hit it with a walnut blaster. Then the cycle starts again.

I just like the extra torque and a few more ponies of the 2.7

On the other hand it's hard to argue that a engine will have a better chance of going extra miles if it's not being pushed closer to the top of it's limits.
Valid points for sure...
The 2.7 with the extra throttle body injector only tells me that perhaps they can't or couldn't optimize the DI to meet the fuel requirements of the V6?
The 2.7 will no doubt keep the intake valves cleaner... But coking of the valves on the 2.3 may be just a non-issue...
I dunno of the validity of STP fuel system cleaner and other "rebuilds in a bottle" treatments, but I'm definitely not spending an extra $2000 to help me sleep at night over the difference between the 4 and the 6
 

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The reason I'll never believe Motor Trend is they picked the Chevrolet Vega as the Car of the Year in 1972, and I bought one. :)

I picked the 2.7L for my Bronco for no other reason than that's what I wanted. If it can survive in a big ass lifted F-150 4x4 with 37's over time (We have those all over the place in my area), it will be fine for me. However, I have a '20 Ranger with the 2.3L, and that little 4 banger will certainly get the job done. IMHO there's no wrong choice between the two for the Bronco. There will always be the one off problem, and I think that's what we saw in the members 2.7L that seized up last week.
Ha ha the Vega. Rode in one from CA to Denver decades ago. We had to get out and push it at the top of the pass heading into Aspen, vapor lock! Good laughs and great memories riding in that claptrap, and what a POS!
 

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Valid points for sure...
The 2.7 with the extra throttle body injector only tells me that perhaps they can't or couldn't optimize the DI to meet the fuel requirements of the V6?
The 2.7 will no doubt keep the intake valves cleaner... But coking of the valves on the 2.3 may be just a non-issue...
I dunno of the validity of STP fuel system cleaner and other "rebuilds in a bottle" treatments, but I'm definitely not spending an extra $2000 to help me sleep at night over the difference between the 4 and the 6
That's up to you.
You can pour all the stuff you want down your tank. It won't reach the problem. Remember that's the bad design characteristic of this engine.
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how many people keep their cars over 100k now? the 2.3 will need maintenance at 100k is a reason to not buy, the 2.7 has a timing belt which costs 4k to replace? wow, are we actually saying that cars require maintenance? maybe some people need to seriously consider leasing a vehicle, obviously they are not ready for ownership. i wonder if the thought of buying a home makes their heads explode?
 

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So with the issues arising early from some members with the engine seizing and codes and such, do any of you all think we are going to find out that the 2.3 will be the more reliable engine for the more abusive Bronco owners?
The 2.3 has been around towing and hauling in the Ranger, as has the 2.7 in the F150. But the 2.7 is a smaller component motor given its cylinder count. We also have the MT to think about. It will most likely live longer with the offroaders than the 10spd, especially since C gear should save the clutch from the less skill full of us. I wish I could get the 2.7 but am going to be manual only so its a no go.

Anyone have thoughts on the future of these motors? Say 100,000 miles and many mud pits and trail rides later?
Not an issue.
 

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i see so much complaining about paying someone to fix your car... there is a simple solution, acquire the skill set to do the work yourself! the timing chain change might be labor intense, but if you learn to do it yourself and invest in the tools required to preform the task you will chalk one up in the win column. new vehicles are not all that complex if you bother to educate yourself. now they even have you tube videos (chuckle chuckle). most dealers charge 120-150 an hour for labor.. learn a skill and save some money...
I am certainly not complaining, but $120-150/hr definitely makes it financially attractive to do my own work. Which I often do because I enjoy doing it and because it is financially beneficial as well.

My biggest challenge (and complaint) with the timing chain replacement is finding a shop that I trust to change it and not screw it up. I have been to several shops that simply don't want to take the job, and the Ford dealership said that it would be several weeks before I could be scheduled.

I would normally do this myself, unfortunately, my lift and tools are all 6 hours away, due to my current duty location.
 

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I am certainly not complaining, but $120-150/hr definitely makes it financially attractive to do my own work. Which I often do because I enjoy doing it and because it is financially beneficial as well.

My biggest challenge (and complaint) with the timing chain replacement is finding a shop that I trust to change it and not screw it up. I have been to several shops that simply don't want to take the job, and the Ford dealership said that it would be several weeks before I could be scheduled.

I would normally do this myself, unfortunately, my lift and tools are all 6 hours away, due to my current duty location.
then, it appears you have a dilemma. maybe it is time to trade it in on a new vehicle and or pony up on the bucks.

most shops don't want to tie up a mechanic on a 2 day job. to be able to charge a minimum of an hour's labor on anything is where they make their money. something like this is where a "shade tree mechanic" tends to be the most beneficial. the complicated jobs which are specialty jobs tend to be avoided by most shops because they are too much of a pain to deal with. the pay off is big but so is the effort.

you may want to check the cost of a long block and the difficulty of the engine change...
 
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Is it really any harder than coyote? Haven't done it yet myself, but looks mostly time consuming. Setting timing on chains, and tensioner/guides, doesn't look too bad here.

 

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then, it appears you have a dilemma. maybe it is time to trade it in on a new vehicle and or pony up on the bucks.

most shops don't want to tie up a mechanic on a 2 day job. to be able to charge a minimum of an hour's labor on anything is where they make their money. something like this is where a "shade tree mechanic" tends to be the most beneficial. the complicated jobs which are specialty jobs tend to be avoided by most shops because they are too much of a pain to deal with. the pay off is big but so is the effort.

you may want to check the cost of a long block and the difficulty of the engine change...
Yep, remanufactured long block is about $4k. As for trading it in, I considered that too, unfortunately I got such a crazy deal on the F-150 that replacing it with anything that would be close in capacity would be quite a bit more expensive (I did price a few F-350's).

It's an 8ft bed standard cab 2011 F-150 with the max tow and heavy duty payload package with a Tommylift. Now, at 232-233k miles, the trade in value is pretty low, even in this market. Hell, I only paid $10k for it in 2015.

Anyway, I am manning the F up and ordered all of the parts, seals, and optional bits that I need to do the job ($700 or so between cam phasers, chains, gaskets, bolts, and other little stuff). On the upside, there is no reason for this not to go another 100k miles after a new chain, as compression/leakdown numbers are good.
 
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mpeugeot

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Is it really any harder than coyote? Haven't done it yet myself, but looks mostly time consuming. Setting timing on chains, and tensioner/guides, doesn't look too bad here.

The chain itself isn't, getting all of the crap out of the way is.
 
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rdass623

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Yep, remanufactured long block is about $4k. As for trading it in, I considered that too, unfortunately I got such a crazy deal on the F-150 that replacing it with anything that would be close in capacity would be quite a bit more expensive (I did price a few F-350's).

It's an 8ft bed standard cab 2011 F-150 with the max tow and heavy duty payload package with a Tommylift. Now, at 232-233k miles, the trade in value is pretty low, even in this market. Hell, I only paid $10k for it in 2015.

Anyway, I am manning the F up and ordered all of the parts, seals, and optional bits that I need to do the job ($700 or so between cam phasers, chains, gaskets, bolts, and other little stuff). On the upside, there is no reason for this not to go another 100k miles after a new chain, as compression/leakdown numbers are good.
then take your time and do it. auto work was done by many before there was a lift available. this is something which is time consuming. just be methodical and spend a little time with your phone and document the disassembly, and you should be good.. some lock wire to hold components back might help also...
 

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then take your time and do it. auto work was done by many before there was a lift available. this is something which is time consuming. just be methodical and spend a little time with your phone and document the disassembly, and you should be good.. some lock wire to hold components back might help also...
Ya, I've got this... I have a bit of a strange background, and lockwire is a very familiar friend... I used to do maintenance on F-15's, so if I can fix a multi-million dollar jet fighter, I can handle this. Doesn't mean that I don't prefer to sit on the couch, drink beer, and watch someone else bust their knuckles. LOL.
 

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Ya, I've got this... I have a bit of a strange background, and lockwire is a very familiar friend... I used to do maintenance on F-15's, so if I can fix a multi-million dollar jet fighter, I can handle this. Doesn't mean that I don't prefer to sit on the couch, drink beer, and watch someone else bust their knuckles. LOL.
i used to work on opposing forces producing lift in the army... lock wire and duckbill pliers became an essential combination.
 

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I think we all like maintenance, that is why we are all here and so excited about buying a Bronco! I love my 1989. It has been a great way to teach my son and daughter about vehicle repairs and maintenance.
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