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JL Audio Fix 86 - Base audio measured - Flat front/rear FORSCAN settings

JABronco87

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I just read this entire thread and I need some clarity, so if I have a 22' bronco, I need to change the lines to 3801 and 0901? Is this correct vs the 3800 and 0900 for the 21" ?
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Umichigan1

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Any feed back from the guys that tried this? No crazy loud chimes or any odd side effects that some people had with the other changes? I’ll have to try this and re run my kicker dsp setup. Thanks in advance for doing the hard part lol.
Just now seeing this thread. Recently completed my upgrade and my chimes cranked up in volume. Haven't figured out yet how to deal with it. Hoping to find a solution in Forscan but I don't think that is an option.
 

fitterhappier

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Made the update today. I have a '22, and 3800/0900 was the combination I ended up using (I tried 3801 but it didn't seem to make a difference).

First impressions: the system did lose a bit of bass right off the bat, but overall the tonality is much increased. I have a fully upgraded system (new speakers, Kicker Key, underseat sub), and I'm probably in the minority of folks who did not like the Kicker DSP and disabled it. Really glad OP showed the frequency curve analysis, because the peaks and dips in the stock DSP annoyed me to no end. Overall, it's so much more neutral now and I can push my underseat in volume without it sounding odd with all the stock bass peaks. I also can now hear the rear speakers now, so the sound is quite a bit more enveloping in the cabin.

I honestly just did this because I'm planning on getting the 6.5 pods as soon as they're released, and wanted them to perform up to their potential, but I'm a big fan of what this did to the system in the meantime!
 

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My system sounds right up there with some of my best systems. IMO don’t chase Forscan changes. The rear channel is fine, in fact I pulled the rear channel feed through my LCi6, into the front channel of key and running all 4 inch off the rear signal input. The second key channel input is coming from the the front signals into the LCi6 and then to the second channel of the key, crossover set at 120hz, then feeding back to the kick panel 6.5’s. I also split that channel feed off in the LCi6 to Kicker Mono amp to two Kicker 12’s. Run DSP to correct equalization and sound stage and it’s fantastic roof up or down. Tons of bass and crystal clear mids and smooth highs. Nice mids coming from the kicks. Gains set on the Lci6 input for clean signal with no clipping and also gain set at amp. I can crank it all the way, which will provide high level distortion free tunes. Just break down and do it right if you want good sound.

Using all Alpine S series except rear pods are Pioneer TS.

One of the best upgrades if you like music!!
 

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I pulled the rear channel feed through my LCi6, into the front channel of key and running all 4 inch off the rear signal input. The second key channel input is coming from the the front signals into the LCi6 and then to the second channel of the key, crossover set at 120hz, then feeding back to the kick panel 6.5’s. I also split that channel feed off in the LCi6 to Kicker Mono amp to two Kicker 12’s. Run DSP to correct equalization and sound stage and it’s fantastic roof up or down. Tons of bass and crystal clear mids and smooth highs. Nice mids coming from the kicks. Gains set on the Lci6 input for clean signal with no clipping and also gain set at amp. I can crank it all the way, which will provide high level distortion free tunes. Just break down and do it right if you want good sound.
I don't mean for this to seem disrespectful or negative, however, .... huh? As much as I want to understand your process I cannot fathom what the heck you just said. Maybe if you describe the signal path?
 

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Neal Bigbend

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@MOBRONCO are you able to tell if the factory signal changes as the volume is increased on the head unit? I’m curious if the bass to the fronts is rolled off as volume goes up to protect the factory speakers.
Well, that is good news! Thanks again for your help. I’ve already replaced all the front speakers and added a Kicker Key 200.4. I’m planning on a JL ACP112LG-TW1 tapped into the front speakers to get some low end oomph. I was curious if the low end signal to the sub would be reduced at higher volumes, but it sounds like it won’t. 👍🏼
It will if you don't have the jbl fix86 trust me I'm fighting with it now with a kickerkeyloc
 

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Before the settings change the front had great bass. It's just ok now. I've added the same Alpines in the rear pods and they have no bass at all before or after the change. I read in another thread that it may require a flash from the dealer. If you add the JBL sound bar they flash the head unit to deliver full signal to the rear. I'm not getting the bar but, would love to get it flashed
My dealer quoted me $150 just to have the flash done alone with or without the actual sound bar .
 

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Just wanted to drop a note to @MOBRONCO as a thanks for this one. Finally got around to doing this last night and after re-running the Key DSP tuning, it's night and day better compared to stock and even stockish with speakers and amp.
 

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71to21-2DR

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I changed it back to original.
Hey there, can you help me with the stock numbers on the base stereo? I forgot to write them down after I changed everything because I didn’t think I would go back, but I agree. It totally sucks even with the key amp. It sounded way better with the stock settings.
Thanks Rick.
 

HotdogThud

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Hey there, can you help me with the stock numbers on the base stereo? I forgot to write them down after I changed everything because I didn’t think I would go back, but I agree. It totally sucks even with the key amp. It sounded way better with the stock settings.
Thanks Rick.
if you look up your as-built configs with your VIN (can't remember the url for it), it'll show you what the default values are
 

71to21-2DR

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if you look up your as-built configs with your VIN (can't remember the url for it), it'll show you what the default values are
Thanks!
I did that.
It sounds way better with the Stock settings with the Key amp
And Kicker speakers for some reason
I will probably recalibrate the microphone sound test again just to make sure.
Love Forscan though!
I have just about every annoying thing on the Bronco Turned off now!!!
Speedo accurate now
And
TPMs settings turned way down also.
Disconnected from big brother Ford also, in case they reboot everything!
 

HotdogThud

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Thanks!
I did that.
It sounds way better with the Stock settings with the Key amp
And Kicker speakers for some reason
I will probably recalibrate the microphone sound test again just to make sure.
Love Forscan though!
I have just about every annoying thing on the Bronco Turned off now!!!
Speedo accurate now
And
TPMs settings turned way down also.
Disconnected from big brother Ford also, in case they reboot everything!
It took me a few iterations to get the sound from the kicker to actually sound like it was worth the money:

1. added speakers (JL Audio 2650's kicker 4" in the rear) = slightly better
2. added kicker key = meh results (what? HOW?!)
3. figured out I ran the auto-tune wrong, re-did = way better, but still lacking anything low
4. played with gains on amp, turning them mostly down to let the head unit control the outpout levels a bit more = 2% better
5. added baffles to kick panel speakers = decent difference, it's a big metal box, after all

Lived with things in this state for a few months

6. broke down and did the forscan changes. = big difference, but everything seemed out of whack.
7. re-ran the kicker tune = massive difference, sound is probably 75% better than stock, but still could use a sub, maybe i'll bite the bullet at some point.

I can now turn the volume up to about 22-24 before things start clipping funny, with flacs seeming to perform better than mp3. Also works better using local files off a usb stick vs over bluetooth.
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