F OR D

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should out to @Papa Smurf for some guidance on the install! finally got it all in today and a world of difference.

4s and 6.5s swapped with polk dbs.
kicker key 200.4
hideaway hs10
pnp kit 16

notes from the install:
  • did pink noise, probably need to do again with sub.
  • going to have to mount the sub, got some rattle just lying flat in the trunk. no great options as of now.
  • wanted to put the key above the dash but man, wiring is way too tight. got tired of trying and just went below the column
  • took way longer then anticipated, just one stupid thing after another.
  • 6.5s are a little bit of a bitch to swap.
  • plugnplay kits are the bomb.


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cmcbronco

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should out to @Papa Smurf for some guidance on the install! finally got it all in today and a world of difference.

4s and 6.5s swapped with polk dbs.
kicker key 200.4
hideaway hs10
pnp kit 16

notes from the install:
  • did pink noise, probably need to do again with sub.
  • going to have to mount the sub, got some rattle just lying flat in the trunk. no great options as of now.
  • wanted to put the key above the dash but man, wiring is way too tight. got tired of trying and just went below the column
  • took way longer then anticipated, just one stupid thing after another.
  • 6.5s are a little bit of a bitch to swap.
  • plugnplay kits are the bomb.
Great you got it done. But do NOT do the pink noise setup with the sub. Will effect the end result.
 

MannyG20

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I went through the set up process again to try to fix the excessively loud ‘tone’ problem but no luck. The increased volume definitely comes from increasing the Amp 1 gain control. I ended up just decreasing the gain control on both amp 1 & 2 to a level where the tone volume was not obnoxiously loud.
 

DaveInSA

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Well it’s here , kit 11.4 🙌. Now just waiting for 4 Memphis PRX4 and 2 Memphis 5 1/2s. 👏👏👏
Are there any markings or info on the load resistor part of that harness (the part with blue heat shrink)?

I can't order just that cable evidently, so just tapped in to the existing wires and ran my own, but didn't include a resistor. I'm going to use an LC2i Pro for the subwoofer that has a selectable resistor built in. Just wondering what resistor(s) were used in that harness.

Thanks.
 

Barlos

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Are there any markings or info on the load resistor part of that harness (the part with blue heat shrink)?

I can't order just that cable evidently, so just tapped in to the existing wires and ran my own, but didn't include a resistor. I'm going to use an LC2i Pro for the subwoofer that has a selectable resistor built in. Just wondering what resistor(s) were used in that harness.

Thanks.
I know
Are there any markings or info on the load resistor part of that harness (the part with blue heat shrink)?

I can't order just that cable evidently, so just tapped in to the existing wires and ran my own, but didn't include a resistor. I'm going to use an LC2i Pro for the subwoofer that has a selectable resistor built in. Just wondering what resistor(s) were used in that harness.

Thanks.
DaveinSA. Here is the link for the exact same part, An LC2i will work as well and even better depending on your settings.

https://theinstallbay.com/product/IBLR1-39
 

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DaveInSA

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I know

DaveinSA. Here is the link for the exact same part, An LC2i will work as well and even better depending on your settings.

https://theinstallbay.com/product/IBLR1-39
39ohm, that's what I needed.

Audiocontroll makes some too, but they only list them as 'for ford' or 'for gm' and didn't list what size resistors are used that I could find.

Thanks!
 

Mena541

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I just installed the kicker key 200.4 with plugnplay kit. What do I have to do before ruining DSP set up?
 

niterider006

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The ambient 'tone' sounds that the Bronco makes when you select something on the touchscreen are now very loud.
That happened to me too. Interestingly, I was able to adjust the volume of the "announcements" as they occurred. What you do is perform an action that prompts the computer's voice like tapping on the talk button. Once the prompt starts, you can use the volume button to turn it down while it's "talking".
 

niterider006

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So I don't know what's going on. The back speakers are still muted and offer no base. I installed new speakers, key and ran DSP and I still get 0 base out of it. What am I doing wrong?
 

DaveInSA

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So I don't know what's going on. The back speakers are still muted and offer no base. I installed new speakers, key and ran DSP and I still get 0 base out of it. What am I doing wrong?
The head unit isn't sending bass on the rear speakers to the key amp. So there's nothing there to amplify.

You could try the ForSCAN changes. Those have worked for some people but not for others.

You can also try turning the fader off on the key 200.4. From the manual:

FADER: Leave the fader switch to ON if you are
running two sets of inputs (front and rear for example)
to the amplifier. Set the fader switch OFF if you want
to drive all channels from a single stereo input.
It doesn't specify but I'd assume the 'single stereo input' is from the AMP 1 input which should be your front speakers which are getting full range.

I'm not sure if the DSP would be smart enough to hear the rear speakers bottoming out and reduce bass going to them though. If you try it, let us know if it works :)
 

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RedHotFuzz

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I'm not sure if the DSP would be smart enough to hear the rear speakers bottoming out and reduce bass going to them though. If you try it, let us know if it works :)
Shouldn't this be resolved with bass blockers?
 

DaveInSA

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Shouldn't this be resolved with bass blockers?
It could be, but most of us only put bass blockers on the front dash speakers since there's no bass going to the rears by default anyway.
If you now feed the rears with the front signal, the rears would also need bass blockers if the DSP on the amp isn't smart enough to reduce bass going to them.
 

MannyG20

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The head unit isn't sending bass on the rear speakers to the key amp. So there's nothing there to amplify.

You could try the ForSCAN changes. Those have worked for some people but not for others.

You can also try turning the fader off on the key 200.4. From the manual:



It doesn't specify but I'd assume the 'single stereo input' is from the AMP 1 input which should be your front speakers which are getting full range.

I'm not sure if the DSP would be smart enough to hear the rear speakers bottoming out and reduce bass going to them though. If you try it, let us know if it works :)
I think I can confirm that Amp 1 runs the front speakers and Amp 2 runs the rear speakers. If you change the gain control on Amp 1 it will only adjust the front speakers while the gain control on Amp 2 will adjust the rear speakers.
 

BroncoDude

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I think I can confirm that Amp 1 runs the front speakers and Amp 2 runs the rear speakers. If you change the gain control on Amp 1 it will only adjust the front speakers while the gain control on Amp 2 will adjust the rear speakers.
This is how it works in mine. I was able to adjust amp 2 to get good sound from the rears.
 

Aurongel

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Still unhappy with my Kicker amp and speakers setup, the volume level this allows (~18) before clipping is barely serviceable when my top is on and windows are up. Dropping the top and windows makes the overall volume VERY disappointing. I definitely don’t have hearing damage so I’m sure that Spotify or CarPlay or maybe the Kicker amp itself are somehow affecting this because almost everyone else here sounds much happier than I am with their results.

I’m getting ready to Mount the amp above the glove box using the new M2M Mount. As a Hail Mary, I purchased some 600hz bass blockers for the front dash speakers. I want to be absolutely sure that I don’t somehow have a defective Kicker amp before going through the annoying install process above the glove box.

I can’t understate this but the AudioEngine speakers I use for my turntable in my living room sound much better and are FAR louder than the peak output this amp provides before clipping. It’s really just the dash speakers giving me issue so that makes me think that maybe DSP or something is send them too much power relative to the comparatively less loud kick panels.
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