Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[Dadsquatch]

What trim removal tools are needed to install the Kicker 200.4 since you have to drop the steering column trim panel & the stereo trim panel? Any tips? Thank you.

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[Blaven]

What trim removal tools are needed to install the Kicker 200.4 since you have to drop the steering column trim panel & the stereo trim panel? Any tips? Thank you.

Watch the video on the 1st page. It shows use of one of the trim tools. You can get a cheap kit on Amazon.

 

[plugnplaykits]

Kicker key 200.4 and 500.1 kits are back in stock while they last .

 

[Mhsaint]

When I put the volume to around 16/17 the speakers get muffled, almost distorted. I turn down the bass and mid-range a bit and it helps but would have thought the kicker key amp would have allowed it to be cleaner at higher volume. The gain is all the way down on the amp.

The dash 4" Kickers have 150hrz bass blockers. The lower panel and back row speakers are also kickers. I am using the T-Harness from plug n play harnesses: https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41157659852990

I emailed Kicker support and they said "
The KEY200.4 has a minimum of 4 ohm’s. If the speakers are wired in parallel its 2 ohm’s." - whatever the hell that means lol.

But I believe the T-Harness I am using has all 6 speakers running off the amp if I am not mistaken.

It means that you are over driving the amp two 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel like ford did from the factory means the amp is seeing 2 ohms not good according to kicker tech will blow up the amp

 

[TKFIVE]

Question about high-level inputs using the @plugnplaykits kit 11-4…which color means what? The lines are Gray, White, Green, Orange

I have a powered MTX powered sub that accepts high-level inputs, but they are labeled R+, R-, G,L-,L+

I tried searching, but didn’t have much luck.

 

[plugnplaykits]

There was a paper that came with your order that explain the wire colors . White is left positive orange is left negative gray is right positive and green is right negative

 

[fitterhappier]

When I put the volume to around 16/17 the speakers get muffled, almost distorted. I turn down the bass and mid-range a bit and it helps but would have thought the kicker key amp would have allowed it to be cleaner at higher volume. The gain is all the way down on the amp.

The dash 4" Kickers have 150hrz bass blockers. The lower panel and back row speakers are also kickers. I am using the T-Harness from plug n play harnesses: https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41157659852990

I emailed Kicker support and they said "
The KEY200.4 has a minimum of 4 ohm’s. If the speakers are wired in parallel its 2 ohm’s." - whatever the hell that means lol.

But I believe the T-Harness I am using has all 6 speakers running off the amp if I am not mistaken.

I doubt the front speakers are wired in parallel. Otherwise, a whole bunch of us would be having these issues. Is it all the speakers that are having problems? Also, 150hz bass blockers are way too low a value for those little dash speakers. Remember that they don't actually block bass at 150 hz and below. It's simply a capacitor that starts to filter low frequencies at around 150hz. Plus the slope isn't very steep (if you have the Crutchfield ones like I do, it's 8db/octave which means that bass is rolled off extremely gradual). I tried 300s and 600s and settled on 600s all the way around for the front/rear dashes. I put 150s on my door speakers and also set the high-pass crossover on the Kicker amp to 60hz. I rarely turn mine over 14-15 (gains at zero on amp, and it's EXTREMELY loud), but there's virtually no distortion. I currently have an underseat sub that handles the low end, and in the future I'm planning to add the JL stealthbox. Hope that helps!

 

[Turbo24]

I finished my audio upgrade using a lot of information here. I upgraded the 4” speakers with infinity reference. Used 300hz bass blockers on front speakers. Installed 200.4 kicker amp. Lastly, I put in the kicker hideaway 8in sub. Both the amp and sub I used plugnplay harnesses.

Everything sounds great but if I put my volume up, 20+, the sound from speakers and sub all turn off. As soon as I turn the volume down a couple clicks everything comes back on.

Anyone else having this issue? Or does anyone have an idea what it might be?

 

[Blaven]

I got my 200.4 installed today. I replaced the front and rear speakers a few months ago. While I had to do the dsp setup a few times and had issues with it hitting the limiters, I finally got it dialed in. Using this method is what enabled mine to hit over volume 20 without any cutout of the speakers.
Post in thread 'Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!' https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ll-diy-video-do-this-first.38520/post-1456718

 

[Rd1103]

I used the srews that came with the sub, and screwed it right to the plastic rear panel. I did put a layer of sound deadening material between the sub and panel.

Thanks for the pictures! I'm thinking of putting my kicker hideaway in the same spot using the same method. I have a four door, so running wire might be a tad more cumbersome, but just wanted to see how easy/hard this part was for you, and just the install in general? Thanks!

 

[TNBadBronc]

Thanks for the pictures! I'm thinking of putting my kicker hideaway in the same spot using the same method. I have a four door, so running wire might be a tad more cumbersome, but just wanted to see how easy/hard this part was for you, and just the install in general? Thanks!

The install was fairly easy. I bought the kicker hideaway and wiring harness from plug and play. Everything just plugged in, and I had to run a hot wire to the battery, and a ground wire to a ground screw behind rear panel.

The hardest part is taking off the rear panel to run the wires without breaking the panel tabs.

 

[Rd1103]

I used the srews that came with the sub, and screwed it right to the plastic rear panel. I did put a layer of sound deadening material between the sub and panel.

Another question for you

Where did you tap into the speakers from for the install? Rear speakers or the front? Did you do any special settings (low pass/high pass crossovers) on the kicker key amp?

 

[TNBadBronc]

Another question for you

Where did you tap into the speakers from for the install? Rear speakers or the front? Did you do any special settings (low pass/high pass crossovers) on the kicker key amp?

I didn't have to tap into the speakers. The harness from plug and play does all this.

On the kicker key amp I set the high pass crossover to 80. And the kicker hideaway I set the low pass to about 80 also.

Another question for you

Where did you tap into the speakers from for the install? Rear speakers or the front? Did you do any special settings (low pass/high pass crossovers) on the kicker key amp?

I didn't have to tap into the speakers. The harness from plug and play does all this.

On the kicker key amp, I set the high pass crossover to 80. And on the kicker hideaway sub I set the low pass to 80.

 

[plugnplaykits]

It means that you are over driving the amp two 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel like ford did from the factory means the amp is seeing 2 ohms not good according to kicker tech will blow up the amp

The way Ford works is even though both sets of front speakers are wired together it’s still at a 4 ohm load not 2 ohm

 

[Dadsquatch]

Dumb question, but I'm going to install my Kicker Key 200.4 before my new speakers arrive. I assume I'll have to do the amp setup / DSP process again once the new speakers are installed. Is there a reset button or something, or just go through the DSP process again and I'll be fine? Thank you.

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