Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[1970AMCAMX]

Awesome, thanks for the harness links, I knew what I had to do but thought I was going to have to splice up the expensive harness listed in this thread. I think a good solid pair of woofers in the kick panel with some infiniti reference up on the dash would sound real nice.

That's what I am doing, I already soldered up the new T-harness and have the speakers. I just haven't got a chance to install it all yet.

I am installing these under the seats:


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[Chirico]

Kicker Key 200.4 installed.
4" Kicker KS installed on Dash (with bass blockers).

6.75" KS delivered today.
Will install over the weekend.

My question is,
Should I put down some sound deadening/ dampening sheets in the kick panel to cover some bare metals?

Good for controlled (clean?) bass?
Or
Possibly kills and makes dead sound (muffled)?
Or
Won't make much difference?


Any advice for a newbie who is after just some clean sounds would be appreciated.

I guess I am just trying to understand what I am about to change by adding sound absorbing material behind the woofer: Good or Bad? How it would impact the sound.

(Any cavity required behind the woofer? Reflective vs Deadening surface behind?
I basically have no idea how the kick panel speaker works. How the woofer moves around the air to make sounds: Obviously I don't know what I am talking about;;

Thank you.

 

[greatlakes]

Kicker Key 200.4 installed.
4" Kicker KS installed on Dash (with bass blockers).

6.75" KS delivered today.
Will install over the weekend.

My question is,
Should I put down some sound deadening/ dampening sheets in the kick panel to cover some bare metals?

Good for controlled (clean?) bass?
Or
Possibly kills and makes dead sound (muffled)?
Or
Won't make much difference?


Any advice for a newbie who is after just some clean sounds would be appreciated.

I guess I am just trying to understand what I am about to change by adding sound absorbing material behind the woofer: Good or Bad? How it would impact the sound.

(Any cavity required behind the woofer? Reflective vs Deadening surface behind?
I basically have no idea how the kick panel speaker works. How the woofer moves around the air to make sounds: Obviously I don't know what I am talking about;;

Thank you.

I used sound deadening inside the kick panel cavity so the flat metal back there doesn't vibrate. Vibration means some of the work your speaker is doing is going to vibration rather than output.

I also sealed my speaker to the plastic adapter using strips of the same sound deadening to prevent air from leaking from any gaps between them. It's the same concept - you're trying to separate the front of the woofer from the back of the woofer so it does not reduce the sound output:

 

[Billnchristy]

front/rear isolation is more a cancellation thing, but yeah, reduced output, less control etc. You want that enclosure as tight as it can be, i'd even go as far as spray foaming or gumming up gaps to tighten it up. We don't have ours yet so I haven't been inside the panel but the more you can make it like a box, the more it will behave like one and provide you with bass.

 

[plugnplaykits]

@plugnplaykits any idea when you'll have the harnesses back in stock? Showing sold out.

Site has been updated harness only and harness with amp are now back in stock

 

[BroncMe]

Thanks for this encouragement, everything else was going smoothly. Had trouble with the white/grey one too

Remain baffled

Finally all solved: A local audio guy just helped me for five minutes with the plugs. Tipped him for some beers.

Notes:
-- bailed on installing the Kicker above the glove box, chose instead the steering column, just so much easier to handle the harness wiring. No interference with tilt/telescope, zip ties all that's needed, super secure.
-- the amp setup program was so easy. handled the pink noise via an iPhone wired directly into carplay in accessory mode. set it to play, hit the kicker microphone/setup button, exit the vehicle, 5-8 minutes you get the victory music.
-- no gain needed above the amp minimum, plenty loud. no clipping, even with stock speakers.
-- stock speakers sound perfectly great with the digital reprogramming, will likely not upgrade.
-- a no-brainer must have (I'm a basequatch)

 

[Biff]

do you mind showing a pic of the 11HS8 mounted?

I still need to turn the sub upside down so the quick disconnect will be on the left-hand side and then some cable management, but it stays put once velcroed to the back seat carpet. The tonneau cover seems to help the overall sound and I’m quite happy with the results.

 

[WHOISGAZ]

I saw another video with this same kit install a week ago. Does the kit come with the amp ? or is it just the harnesses?

 

[Chirico]

Not sure if it has been covered somewhere in the forum.
Couldn't get clear answers.

Key 200.4 added. (along with front 4 speakers from Kicker)

Planning to add a small sub (JBL Basspro Nano) to round up the sound.

But not really sure where to tap into to feed the sub.

Initially thinking of Kick Panel Speaker wires (actually for Metra harness to keep stock wires intact.)
But Key 200.4 is not just an amp. DSP won't affect the sub?
Optimized/ EQ'ed/ Modified (whatever DSP is. Sorry, total newbie here) signal won't affect the sub?

Better to tap from signal before the Key?
(Not sure where to get it though. From input wires to the Key?)

Or it does not really matter?

I feel like I should have not started this long journey...;
It is like trying to fill up a jar with a hole in the bottom...

Regards,

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Not sure if it has been covered somewhere in the forum.
Couldn't get clear answers.

Key 200.4 added. (along with front 4 speakers from Kicker)

Planning to add a small sub (JBL Basspro Nano) to round up the sound.

But not really sure where to tap into to feed the sub.

Initially thinking of Kick Panel Speaker wires (actually for Metra harness to keep stock wires intact.)
But Key 200.4 is not just an amp. DSP won't affect the sub?
Optimized/ EQ'ed/ Modified (whatever DSP is. Sorry, total newbie here) signal won't affect the sub?

Better to tap from signal before the Key?
(Not sure where to get it though. From input wires to the Key?)

Or it does not really matter?

I feel like I should have not started this long journey...;
It is like trying to fill up a jar with a hole in the bottom...

Regards,

You've made an investment that now you'd like to extend - that's something whoever sold the original kit should want to help with. If you bought it from Crutchfield just reach out to them and ask - they set a pretty high bar for customer service. I don't have my Bronco (yet!) but in the past all my dealings with them have been first rate - there isn't a doubt in my mind that if I ever DO get my 2dr BL I'll be using Crutchfield to source these audio upgrades.

 

[Glennbob2.7]

I installed a Kicker Key 200.4 amp in my BaseSquatch today and it made a HUGE difference. It was a straight forward install that took about an hour and a half. The install was made easy because of the harness from plugnplaykits.com. There was no need to cut, splice or drill anything. As you will see in the video below, it litterally was a plug and play operation.

The Kicker Key amp has a build-in automatic DSP that fixes Ford's terrible signal as well as adding 50 watts per channel. The combination is amazing. I have a nice 3 way component speaker set waiting to install in the front and now I'm not even sure I will bother. That is just how big of improvement this is.

I have suspected that Ford is intentionally degrading the sound quality of the base system in an effort to get customers to upgrade to the B&O. These amp and more importantly the smart DSP that is integrated in it really brings the entire stereo to life. Spend you money on this before you spend it on speakers. Good speakers can't fix low power and poor signal.

I put together a quick installation video but wasn't able to show the self tuning step because I needed my phone to play the kicker pink noise DSP turning track. If you want to see that step other installation videos show you how to do that.

Edit: the harness and amp are "Kit 11". Here is the direct link to the bronco kits.
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698473662

My brother…
Do you know if this is compatible with the Ford Parts JBL speaker in the back that replaces the factory rear speakers?

has anyone installed this after FORD installed the JBL? Or before the JBL? Potentially even relocating the OEM takeoff speakers and running new wires for them?

thanks so much y’all.
sorry if this was addressed. I got a 2 month old (new dad) so I’m pretty pressed on time And the ability to concentrate on what I’m looking for in these threads!
Y’all rock! Thanks so much!

 

[dangerfoot]

I've done the Plugnplay kit with Key 200.4, Kicker CS speakers in dash and kick panels and the HS10 sub. Sounds good, easy install and really makes a huge difference.
I'd say that the amp is essential, dash upgrade recommended and kicks could go either way....sub is a must.
I used the controls on the key to cutoff at 60hz and will add bass blockers in the dash.

 

[Dadsquatch]

I just did my Kicker Key 200.4 install with the plug & play kit and all stock speakers. Much better, but I'm still wanting more. I'm going to replace the dash speakers and kick panel speakers next, but just need to do some more research first. I'm not going to add a sub, so need to get the best bass I can out of the kick panel speakers. Any recommendations? Thank you.

 

[dangerfoot]

I'm not going to add a sub, so need to get the best bass I can out of the kick panel speakers. Any recommendations? Thank you.

1. Add a sub...there is no other way to get the balance and SPL that comes with a dedicated unit. 6.5s might not cut it, but if I were to forgo the sub, I'd go with...
2. JL 6w3v3s (@$280ea) in the kicker location and you might just have to go with a stronger amp for those. There's a guy who put them in his kicker locations and STILL put 2 HS10s under his front seats (and JLs in the dash).
3. Count on some bass blockers for the dash speakers. I'm using the crossover on the Key for an 80hz cutover and still need to limit the dash speakers. Likely buying 300hz blockers this week.

 

[F OR D]

Kicker Key 200.4 installed.
4" Kicker KS installed on Dash (with bass blockers).

6.75" KS delivered today.
Will install over the weekend.

My question is,
Should I put down some sound deadening/ dampening sheets in the kick panel to cover some bare metals?

Good for controlled (clean?) bass?
Or
Possibly kills and makes dead sound (muffled)?
Or
Won't make much difference?


Any advice for a newbie who is after just some clean sounds would be appreciated.

I guess I am just trying to understand what I am about to change by adding sound absorbing material behind the woofer: Good or Bad? How it would impact the sound.

(Any cavity required behind the woofer? Reflective vs Deadening surface behind?
I basically have no idea how the kick panel speaker works. How the woofer moves around the air to make sounds: Obviously I don't know what I am talking about;;

Thank you.

A box of kilmat is 60. I did each speaker mount, behind, and the molle panel for the sub mount. Added plus I do it anytime I pull paneling. Eliminated a door rattle and sounds great.

What it does is absorb sound and vibration in places you don't want. Just do it, doesn't matter what brand you use.

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