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Ft. Worth Rob

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I’m going to be installing the plugnplay kit 19 with the kicker 200.4 and 500.1 amps. I bought the mountains2metal bracket for the 200.4. I’ve not started to tear everything apart yet. Is there also room behind the dash to mount the 500.1 so I’m only running speaker wires back to my sub going into the factory location?
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You guys running the 4 speakers up front realize you're either running the amp at 2 or 8 ohms, neither of which is ideal, right?

I'm not sure how the factory wiring is set up (parallel or series) but either way presents some issues:

2 ohm- you're running under the amps rated ohm load, it *should* make more power (basically double) but since it's not designed for it, more heat, more distortion, potential failure
8 ohm- you're running double the amps rated load and probably getting half the output, this is generally "safe" but you're going to have to turn it up to get decent volume, at which, you will clip the output of the head unit and introduce distortion.

I've already ran separate wires to my dash so I can't ohm it out and tell you what it's set at from factory and the wiring diagram is a bit vague.

Adding a passive crossover would make the system 4 ohms again as the drivers will split the duty and not have much of a band where they're playing the same frequencies. Just adding a coil to the woofer would make this happen if you already have a cap on the mid in the dash.

An example crossed over at 450hz

Screenshot 2022-11-17 134026.jpg
Agreed, but what do you think the factory set up is?
No one seems to know, and you are correct to say that either approach (parallel or series) is questionable. But, we (as a like minded group) need to move forward.

I like the idea of engineering a 4 ohm solution by running your own leads. I just don't see most people taking this route.

Also, the Key 200 states 50 watts x 4 at 4 ohms, but I am not able to find a minimum impedance specified anywhere (which they should be embarrassed by). In truth, 2 ohms may be just fine on the Key, and seems better than 8.

To be honest, I have a 0.90mH coil for the kick panel speaker, and as you said, limiting the overlap will keep me in the 3 ohm range, which I am comfortable with.
 
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Agreed, but what do you think the factory set up is?
No one seems to know, and you are correct to say that either approach (parallel or series) is questionable. But, we (as a like minded group) need to move forward.

I like the idea of engineering a 4 ohm solution by running your own leads. I just don't see most people taking this route.

Also, the Key 200 states 50 watts x 4 at 4 ohms, but I am not able to find a minimum impedance specified anywhere (which they should be embarrassed by). In truth, 2 ohms may be just fine on the Key, and seems better than 8.

To be honest, I have a 0.90mH coil for the kick panel speaker, and as you said, limiting the overlap will keep me in the 3 ohm range, which I am comfortable with.
Ill try to figure it out by metering the wires.

if the key was 2ohm stable I would be surprised because they don’t advertise bridging. It would be the ultimate 2.1 alternative. Yes, there are other factors that go into bridging but stability is a big part.
 

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Ill try to figure it out by metering the wires.

if the key was 2ohm stable I would be surprised because they don’t advertise bridging. It would be the ultimate 2.1 alternative. Yes, there are other factors that go into bridging but stability is a big part.
I totally agree that it is not designed for 2ohms or they would advertise that it puts out 75w x 4 @ 2ohms or some shuch over optimism. And I would guess that this fact is contributing to some of the issues people are having at higher volumes using 3-4 ohm replacement speakers.

Currently I assume that stock is two 4-6 ohm speakers in parallel, and that the capacitor on the 4 inch helps a little to keep the impedance from falling too much where they act together. I will look into it when I pull it all apart, but that won't be until the end of December.
 

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The dash speakers say 4 ohm on them. I will look at the kick Wednesday, all my components are coming today and we shut down around lunch on Wednesday so I am hoping I can get it all done.

While I'm in there I will check continuity on the wires and see if they're parallel or series. As shit as the stock headunit is, I am seriously doubting it's running at 2 ohm.

If they did willy-nilly it down to 2 ohm it might be why it clips so easily too.
 

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I’m going to be installing the plugnplay kit 19 with the kicker 200.4 and 500.1 amps. I bought the mountains2metal bracket for the 200.4. I’ve not started to tear everything apart yet. Is there also room behind the dash to mount the 500.1 so I’m only running speaker wires back to my sub going into the factory location?
The steering column support bar will fit the 200 so there should be room there, it looks like the 500 is the same size?

Be careful of the dash supports on either side of that bar, they are razor sharp and I left a ton of meat hanging on it. My hand looks like a cat attack victim from it.
 

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I was under the impression the stock speakers were all 4 ohm, so thats what I replaced them with, with my kicker speakers.

I re-did my DSP with the EQ settings set at default & pink noise on USB and it no longer clips. That seemed to make a pretty significant difference in my case. It sounds better now too.
 

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The steering column support bar will fit the 200 so there should be room there, it looks like the 500 is the same size?

Be careful of the dash supports on either side of that bar, they are razor sharp and I left a ton of meat hanging on it. My hand looks like a cat attack victim from it.
I actually didnt cut myself on that one - but was very concerned about the Key wiring harness. Idk how some people managed to set it up with the settings accessible towards the door side. I had to flip it around so that the wires wouldn't get cut. It does fit nicely that way at least.
 

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Yeah mine is set the same as yours and I actually had to extend the harness for the speaker outputs.
 

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I finally received a new microphone from Kicker the other day.
(Muddy mid with auto DSP. One of possible causes was the mic. Thank you again @Billnchristy)

I will try DSP setup again over the weekend along with some other changes.

Here are a few questions to make sure no dumb newbie mistakes.

Q1. I found the space below the dash speaker is quite crazy.
Should I try to seal it as much as possible? Some Dynamat or even with some Poly-fil? And somewhat separate it from the space below?

Q2. Planning to apply some Dynamat (or similar sound deadening) to the kick panels : Contacting surface, behind the speakers, and some patches here and there to seal off some holes.
Some Poly-fill could be good here?

Q3. Poly-fill is safe material? Especially under the dash speakers during hot summer?

Regards,
 

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Q1- Yes, it is super holey up there. I plan on making abs baffles but I'm also shoe-horning a 3/4" tweeter and 3.5" mid up there (might need some dremeling action).

Q2- Here's what I did with my kicks. Noico sound deadening and noico red foam and I used some chunks of memory foam from a mattress topper to seal off the enclosure.
Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! PXL_20221104_214318384


Q3- I've never seen or heard polyfill having any issues like that. It's in almost every sub. You'd pretty much have to expose it to open flame to have a problem, which at that point you'd have a huge problem.
 

Ft. Worth Rob

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Q1- Yes, it is super holey up there. I plan on making abs baffles but I'm also shoe-horning a 3/4" tweeter and 3.5" mid up there (might need some dremeling action).

Q2- Here's what I did with my kicks. Noico sound deadening and noico red foam and I used some chunks of memory foam from a mattress topper to seal off the enclosure.
Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! PXL_20221104_214318384


Q3- I've never seen or heard polyfill having any issues like that. It's in almost every sub. You'd pretty much have to expose it to open flame to have a problem, which at that point you'd have a huge problem.
You guys ever used these? For door/kick applications I’ve used them with good results.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-AH09MReOTvN/p_237XT65/XTC-6-1-2-Speaker-Baffles-3-1-4-depth.html
 

Ft. Worth Rob

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The steering column support bar will fit the 200 so there should be room there, it looks like the 500 is the same size?

Be careful of the dash supports on either side of that bar, they are razor sharp and I left a ton of meat hanging on it. My hand looks like a cat attack victim from it.
The 500 is 0.75” longer and 1 3/8” wider than the 200. I’ll figure it out next weekend one way or another.
 

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You guys ever used these? For door/kick applications I’ve used them with good results.
https://www.crutchfield.com/S-AH09MReOTvN/p_237XT65/XTC-6-1-2-Speaker-Baffles-3-1-4-depth.html
I don't like them because they make a very small enclosure. They'd be fine in the dash because you're not making bass up there. Polyfill actually kinda cheats the system by slowing air down (torturous path and all) and makes the speaker think it's in a little bit bigger box. It also kills a lot of reflection issues you get (sound waves hitting the back wall and then bouncing back into your speaker, basically negating the tone that was just sent.)

I imagine those baffles working against you two-fold
1) making the enclosure tiny
2) making reflections super bad

Again, if the speaker isn't seeing a lot of bass, it's fine.
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