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Billnchristy

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I'm really starting to "like" the kick speakers stock. I'm still changing them as I don't have a sub at the moment, but if you're putting a sub in, put speakers in the dash and run those kicks as mid-bass, they have a really decent amount of output in the 100hz range.

If there's interest, when I am done with my audio journey I will make a "tiered" list thread with multiple options and price levels so people can clearly see what the options are from simple to extreme.
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dangerfoot

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I'm really starting to "like" the kick speakers stock. I'm still changing them as I don't have a sub at the moment, but if you're putting a sub in, put speakers in the dash and run those kicks as mid-bass, they have a really decent amount of output in the 100hz range.

If there's interest, when I am done with my audio journey I will make a "tiered" list thread with multiple options and price levels so people can clearly see what the options are from simple to extreme.
I agree - stock kicks don't sound massively different than Kicker CS series replacements, although I think that the impedance matching between dash and kicks does play a roll in loudness, best to have them all match.
 

Billnchristy

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I'm hoping my woofers provide a little more low end. We're going to try to put them in today and finalize the passenger dash wednesday. Trying to get everything done.
 

Jazer

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I agree - stock kicks don't sound massively different than Kicker CS series replacements, although I think that the impedance matching between dash and kicks does play a roll in loudness, best to have them all match.
When I put one in and faded between Left/Right.. I noticed more clarity from the CS and that was about it. Possibly slightly less bass. Pre-amp install at least. I'm guessing the amp is improving the Kicker CS kicks more than it would be the stock ones though. It sounded fantastic even before I wired in the Kicker Hideaway sub.
 

Chirico

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I finally received a new microphone from Kicker the other day.
(Muddy mid with auto DSP. One of possible causes was the mic. Thank you again @Billnchristy)

I will try DSP setup again over the weekend along with some other changes.

Here are a few questions to make sure no dumb newbie mistakes.

Q1. I found the space below the dash speaker is quite crazy.
Should I try to seal it as much as possible? Some Dynamat or even with some Poly-fil? And somewhat separate it from the space below?

Q2. Planning to apply some Dynamat (or similar sound deadening) to the kick panels : Contacting surface, behind the speakers, and some patches here and there to seal off some holes.
Some Poly-fill could be good here?

Q3. Poly-fill is safe material? Especially under the dash speakers during hot summer?

Regards,
Just to report a quick update (for anyone out there who might be suffering from the same problem)

Tried the new microphone sent by Kicker.
Yes! finally acceptable sound!
No more weirdly enhanced mid bass.
Sound clarity is much much better.
(Even though it is still not like what I was expecting. But I guess, it is what it is from the Kicker speakers)

But it is acceptable, and I think I can live with it for a while;;)

Spent some time with the small sub with many different songs.
Setting a sub seems to be much more trial and error than I was initially expecting.
Works well with some songs but does not work at all with some others.
Another piece of puzzle to solve...

Big appreciation to all 6G members who helped me out with my first journey in this bottomless audio world.

+ One thing to add.
After the fog of muddy sound is cleared, I actually hear more hiss.
Noise floor of Kicker Key is somewhat high?
Or gain setting can cause more background noise?
 
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Billnchristy

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Gain will add noise. I think the SN ratio is 95 for this amp, not stellar but not garbage either.
 

Billnchristy

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Got everything in last night but I used a janky pink noise and it makes everything super bright. I'll be running it again tonight with the proper file. DOH!
 

DaveInSA

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Just a FYI. I sold my bronco but pulled the kicker amp and plugnplay harness out before. It's up for sale in the sale forums if anyone is looking to add one.
 

FellowM3

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Anyone in NJ that can help with install lol.

Will pay in beer and food :LOL:šŸ˜
 

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FreddieLee

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Does the Kicker Key supply power to the dash, kick panel, and rear pod (all 6) speakers?
 

Lurker B6G

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Does the Kicker Key supply power to the dash, kick panel, and rear pod (all 6) speakers?
The Kicker Key is a 4 channel amplifier.

If you wire it in the "normal way" and use one of the PnP harnesses that everyone is talking about, then it will power the front and back speakers (all 6). Keep in mind that the front speakers are a combination of the kick and dash on each side, so 4 front and 2 back.

It can be wired to ANY four channels, so some people wire the kicks and dash seperately (bi-amped), and do not amplify the backs (run directly from the head unit). But this requires an understanding of how to tap the kicks and dash speakers seperately.
 

FellowM3

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The Kicker Key is a 4 channel amplifier.

If you wire it in the "normal way" and use one of the PnP harnesses that everyone is talking about, then it will power the front and back speakers (all 6). Keep in mind that the front speakers are a combination of the kick and dash on each side, so 4 front and 2 back.

It can be wired to ANY four channels, so some people wire the kicks and dash seperately (bi-amped), and do not amplify the backs (run directly from the head unit). But this requires an understanding of how to tap the kicks and dash speakers seperately.
Why would someone do the tap method, rather than the PnP kit then?

It controlling all 6 speakers, isnt that a win?
 

Lurker B6G

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Short answer is $155 plus shipping.

Long answer is that some set-ups will need it (e.g. bi-amp).

Using a pre-made harness is by far the simple approach.
 

skipole70

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does anyone know what install of the 200.4 would be like without the harness? Just splicing into a few speaker wires and running power to the battery? Trying to understand what the $100 harness provides. Iā€™m struggling to understand their website
Warranty. It provides a factory warranty šŸ˜†
If something breaks, unplug it, put it back together stock, and take it to the dealer. Plus not everyone is an electrical engineer. Iā€™ve seen some massive boo boos in my days as an installerā€¦ā€¦. And that was before all this computerized crap and air bags. Iā€™ve won several trophies in regional competitions, many moons agoā€¦.. and Iā€™m here to tell you, this looks like the easy way to go. All it takes is one bad connection and the dealer will void your electrical warranty in a heart beat. Iā€™m glad I came across this post. Thank you @67BroncoG1
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