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BFizzy

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Same here, was going to leave the original kick panel speakers since they had more bass but it was cutting out like crazy. Replaced all 6 speakers with Memphis and added a single downfire 12” sub in the back. Sounds super clean and that boom is deep.
I kept the OEM 6.5’s and they had some decent mid bass with the kk200.4. If yours don’t have any bass at all, make sure you don’t have the BI-AMP switch turned on.
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ctandc

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Shoutout to Joe at @plugnplaykits
The sound improved so much with the speaker replacement (dash and kick panels) and adding the Kicker amp, I really enjoy cranking it up so I want to add a powered sub. Talked to Joe and he's going to sell me an extension to plug right into the existing harness connector to plug right up to a Kicker Hideaway 8" powered sub.

I did play around with settings and here's what I learned for my setup:

- Kicker DS 6.75 in the kick panels
- Kicker CS 4" in the dash w/ bass blockers
- Kicker 200.4 amp

I initially ran the auto dsp setup with the stock tone controls set all the way to the left (zero essentially). Gains all the way down on the amp. Used kicker's pink noise track on a usb stick.

Setup completed without any issues, sounded pretty good. Bumped the gain on the front a bit and a bit on the rear. Sounded good.

I just ran the setup again this morning. Reset the factory EQ in the default (middle) spot and reran the DSP setup.

It sounds better to me. The kicks put out a good bit of middle range thump. Went to set the gains and noticed that without almost any increase on the front gain it hits the limiter.

I tried w/o compression, with and without Kicker EQ, tried it without DSP setup settings etc.

Is everyone turning the factory headunit tone controls all the way off to the left or leaving it at default when running the setup? Just curious
 

Biff

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Shoutout to Joe at @plugnplaykits
The sound improved so much with the speaker replacement (dash and kick panels) and adding the Kicker amp, I really enjoy cranking it up so I want to add a powered sub. Talked to Joe and he's going to sell me an extension to plug right into the existing harness connector to plug right up to a Kicker Hideaway 8" powered sub.

I did play around with settings and here's what I learned for my setup:

- Kicker DS 6.75 in the kick panels
- Kicker CS 4" in the dash w/ bass blockers
- Kicker 200.4 amp

I initially ran the auto dsp setup with the stock tone controls set all the way to the left (zero essentially). Gains all the way down on the amp. Used kicker's pink noise track on a usb stick.

Setup completed without any issues, sounded pretty good. Bumped the gain on the front a bit and a bit on the rear. Sounded good.

I just ran the setup again this morning. Reset the factory EQ in the default (middle) spot and reran the DSP setup.

It sounds better to me. The kicks put out a good bit of middle range thump. Went to set the gains and noticed that without almost any increase on the front gain it hits the limiter.

I tried w/o compression, with and without Kicker EQ, tried it without DSP setup settings etc.

Is everyone turning the factory headunit tone controls all the way off to the left or leaving it at default when running the setup? Just curious
I ran the DSP setup with the treble, mid, and bass on default (centered, not all the way to the left) and am very happy with the results. I also made sure to turn off speed compensated volume. Once setup was complete, I then bumped the treble, mid, and bass back up to what sounds best to my ear. Finally I bumped the rear gain up to about 25% and am happy to actually hear sound coming from the rear speakers. Now I just have to install the Kicker 11HS8 and it should have the bass sounding proper too.
 

ctandc

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FYI I ran across this post on another forum on setting up the Kicker Key (DSP and gains) and it made a BIG difference in how it sounds for me:


1) Turn compression off, set gains to 0, and set the Fader where you normally would want it when playing music. Un-hook your sub if you have one.

2) Play pink noise or test tones and keep the gains as low as possible on the amp. Slowly turn up your Head unit volume until you see the limiter LED's turn on. Turn the volume down 1 and remember this value, it is now your max.

3) Run the Kicker Key auto setup with all HU stuff set to flat (or your desired position prior to the auto setup if you want more/less bass, treble, etc then turn those down/up).

4) Now with your HU volume still at that same number and still playing pink noise or test tones, turn the gains up until the limit LED's come on or it is loud enough for you.
 

DaveInSA

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What the heck is this big foam piece between the glove box and head unit ? I am assuming I need to remove it before feeding harness through ?? Unless I missed it , I didn’t see this in any of the install vids I have seen ….

B230BA6E-EE5D-4B29-8763-3787F8D563B9.jpeg
Isn't that the A/C system vent? It's a plastic tube wrapped in foam.
 

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Jeverall

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I think you're right, I just didn't expect to see it there... and I went back and looked at original vid, and saw it. That's what I get for trying to rush this, and first thing in the morning before drinking my Bang :)
 

Barlos

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Anyone knows why I have to manually engage the DSP button on the microphone every time I turn the car on ?
Also I have the glove compartment bracket , I guess is the updated version with the two tabs bended on the sides. How in the hell you position it so you can screw it from the bottom????
 

DaveInSA

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Anyone knows why I have to manually engage the DSP button on the microphone every time I turn the car on ?
Also I have the glove compartment bracket , I guess is the updated version with the two tabs bended on the sides. How in the hell you position it so you can screw it from the bottom????
... for it to come on?
I didn't leave the mic connected. Used it to set up, did a couple switching back and forth between EQ and not, then just disconnected it.
 

Barlos

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... for it to come on?
I didn't leave the mic connected. Used it to set up, did a couple switching back and forth between EQ and not, then just disconnected it.
I did the same but seems like I have to engage the DSP settings every time I turn the car back on. Other than that it sounds great with the Sub in the back
 

ShortBus.cle

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2 set of 4” Kickers, 1 set 6.5” Kickers, Kicker 200.4 amp.
2 set of 4” Kickers, 1 set 6.5” Kickers, Kicker 200.4 amp.
How did you set your amp up? Plug n play harness? I think I had the same issue and just fixed it today. I was relying on power from the head until only using the plug n play harness. When I ran power straight to the battery the clipping went away.
 

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Barlos

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How did you set your amp up? Plug n play harness? I think I had the same issue and just fixed it today. I was relying on power from the head until only using the plug n play harness. When I ran power straight to the battery the clipping went away.
Interesting.
So you ran two hot wires to the battery? One for each amp?
I am going to try that as well.
Thank you
 

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anyine else having issues with the sub coming in and out? installed and successfully completed dsp but if i listen to my music high for a few minutes it comes on and off. im assuming amp is over heating? hip hop music and i have gains all the way down.
If using high level inputs try and toggle radio detect on or off to see if any difference.
 

ShortBus.cle

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Interesting.
So you ran two hot wires to the battery? One for each amp?
I am going to try that as well.
Thank you
I just cut the power wire on the plug n play harness right at the fuse. Took the fuse out, connected 12 gauge wire to the power cord coming from the harness, ran it though the fire wall and attached to the battery (I used an amp wiring kit from crutchfield) put the fuse in near the battery. I should have taken pictures. I want to play around with the gain so can take pictures when I do that.
 

cmcbronco

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I just cut the power wire on the plug n play harness right at the fuse. Took the fuse out, connected 12 gauge wire to the power cord coming from the harness, ran it though the fire wall and attached to the battery (I used an amp wiring kit from crutchfield) put the fuse in near the battery. I should have taken pictures. I want to play around with the gain so can take pictures when I do that.
I was thinking about doing this as well. Not having problems yet but figured power from the battery would prevent any issues. Good to know…
 

ctandc

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I just cut the power wire on the plug n play harness right at the fuse. Took the fuse out, connected 12 gauge wire to the power cord coming from the harness, ran it though the fire wall and attached to the battery (I used an amp wiring kit from crutchfield) put the fuse in near the battery. I should have taken pictures. I want to play around with the gain so can take pictures when I do that.
I was actually thinking about this the other day. Don't get me wrong, I love the OEM look and ease of using the harness (I've made harnesses and the minimum amount to spend to get the correct connectors / pins / wire / tape etc isn't cheap and it takes time / work to make 'em) but I wondered about powering the Key 200.4 off the factory ACM (audio control module) circuit. That circuit is 20A. I was thinking that in most cases that's plenty of power, but since I'm adding a Kicker Hideaway sub (which will have power running directly to the battery) I figured I might look at doing the same thing you did while I'm in there.

So you were having clipping issues or were you hitting the limiter on the amp before you ran a dedicated power wire?
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