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ctandc

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Got the Kicker HS8 hideaway sub installed. Keep in mind we have a 2 door. I removed the rear seats (I'm going to build a platform - no one rides in the back seat our kids are grown). The HS8 fits perfect behind the driver's seat. Can't even see it with the seat back in normal driving position.

Joe from @plugnplaykits sold me the sub as well as an add on harness (no cutting wires) to hook up the sub. Used an amp install kit I had to run the power wire to the battery. Ended up using fabric harness tape and made the harness long (the harness from plugnplay had a ton of extra length) so I could move the sub if I wanted. Pulled the harness under the carpet and under the seat (Where the air bag and seat heater wiring come out). Left the long loop of wrapped harness under the seat.

Tie wrapped / wrapped and tucked everything.

This is EXACTLY what this setup was missing.

Set the 200.4 Key high pass at 80hz and the low pass on the sub to around 80hz. I'll play with settings later - but the difference is RIDICULOUS.

Heck, I bought new 4" speakers for the rear pods and didn't even bother with installing them.

Even my wife is thrilled. I'm honestly shocked how hard this little 8" powered sub hits.
 

King3

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Hi everyone, I have a few questions.

I'm using the PNP harness with a hideaway 10, bought from Joe.

Do I want the hideaway in high or low mode? I think high since this is being pulled from speakers, correct, according to the manual.

For the key 200.4 EQ pink noise test, if you are primarily driving with no doors, no top (2 door here) should I do the test with everything removed, or enclosed? Opinions?

@ctandc thanks for the tips on the 80hz and the amp and sub, I will try that.

Thanks

J
 

WatchYourSix

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Read the entire thread, still a little unsure what to do. I only plan on installing a Kicker Key amp and replacing the dash speakers in my base sound system. What is the consensus on using a PnP harness for Kicker 200.4 if you're not going to install a sub? Trying to decide if I should go with Kit 11-1 from plugnplaykits or the cheaper one that @RedHotFuzz posted (https://hoelwiring.com/products/kicker-key-200-4-plug-play-harness?variant=40277852618788) and run power from the battery. I know some folks had issues with clipping, I assume due to not enough power from the ACM using the PnPK harness? Would rather do it right the first time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

Jeverall

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Read the entire thread, still a little unsure what to do. I only plan on installing a Kicker Key amp and replacing the dash speakers in my base sound system. What is the consensus on using a PnP harness for Kicker 200.4 if you're not going to install a sub? Trying to decide if I should go with Kit 11-1 from plugnplaykits or the cheaper one that @RedHotFuzz posted (https://hoelwiring.com/products/kicker-key-200-4-plug-play-harness?variant=40277852618788) and run power from the battery. I know some folks had issues with clipping, I assume due to not enough power from the ACM using the PnPK harness? Would rather do it right the first time. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
It depends on how much bass you want. I think for most just having the 200.4 would be sufficient. It really does change the sound and gives some good mid range bass to the kick panels. I would run separate power for the 200.4. Hoel wiring made my harness complete with the power & ground wires completed and fuses included. He was super responsive over chat and even made a custom video for me to walk me through install …
 
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ctandc

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Well, this morning I went ahead and bypassed the power feed in the plugnplay harness to the Kicker Key 200.4, and ran a 12ga power wire with fuse holder to the same post on the battery where I ran the power feed for the Kicker hideaway sub.

My issue was the system sounds so much better than stock now, especially with the sub, I find myself wanting to jack the volume up more and more and the amp seemed to be hitting the limiters.

I cut the fuse holder out of the harness, sealed and taped the now unused power lead.

I then set the gains again on the Key Amp, and it takes a lot more to hit the limiters now.

YMMV.

I'm done with the sound system. It sounds ridiculously good now at ANY volume. Well worth the money and time.
 

Swordofthemorning

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Just picked up the Kicker HS10 hideaway. Would it also be recommended to pick up the 200.4 or should the hideaway do?
 

ctandc

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Just picked up the Kicker HS10 hideaway. Would it also be recommended to pick up the 200.4 or should the hideaway do?

Depends on what you want. Car audio is subjective. What sounds GREAT to one person can sound bad to another.

If we hadn't of gone soft top on our 2 door (so easy to raise / lower and I honestly doubt we'll ever put the hard top back on - it's garaged when parked at our house) I doubt I would have jumped so quick into an audio upgrade. Problem with the stock system, FOR US, was that at speed with the top down, of course you need to turn up the volume. Around 15 or so (say interstate speed wit top down) the head unit just gave up the ghost and combined with the stock speakers it sounded like CRAP.

I replaced JUST the 4" dash speakers (added bass blockers) and the difference in clarity and volume was HUGE - TO ME.

The Kick panel speakers kind of get "lost" where they are mounted (removable doors and all) so the only difference I personally noticed (before amp install) was that mids seemed to be a bit less muddy at higher volume.

The addition of the Kicker 200.4 amp just let's the system sound clearer and LOUDER at lower volumes. Of course there isn't much base, but it wasn't horrible. It's a pandora's box though, once you open it and realize how much better it sounds it can be hard to stop.

Honestly I'm REALLY HAPPY with how it sounds now. I've got a bit less than $1K in the system (all new speakers, amp, harnesses, install accessories, amp install kit, 8" Kicker sub etc) and after the soft top it's the best mod I've done $ for $ to the Bronco.

YMMV of course.
 

Matsterious

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Depends on what you want. Car audio is subjective. What sounds GREAT to one person can sound bad to another.

If we hadn't of gone soft top on our 2 door (so easy to raise / lower and I honestly doubt we'll ever put the hard top back on - it's garaged when parked at our house) I doubt I would have jumped so quick into an audio upgrade. Problem with the stock system, FOR US, was that at speed with the top down, of course you need to turn up the volume. Around 15 or so (say interstate speed wit top down) the head unit just gave up the ghost and combined with the stock speakers it sounded like CRAP.

I replaced JUST the 4" dash speakers (added bass blockers) and the difference in clarity and volume was HUGE - TO ME.

The Kick panel speakers kind of get "lost" where they are mounted (removable doors and all) so the only difference I personally noticed (before amp install) was that mids seemed to be a bit less muddy at higher volume.

The addition of the Kicker 200.4 amp just let's the system sound clearer and LOUDER at lower volumes. Of course there isn't much base, but it wasn't horrible. It's a pandora's box though, once you open it and realize how much better it sounds it can be hard to stop.

Honestly I'm REALLY HAPPY with how it sounds now. I've got a bit less than $1K in the system (all new speakers, amp, harnesses, install accessories, amp install kit, 8" Kicker sub etc) and after the soft top it's the best mod I've done $ for $ to the Bronco.

YMMV of course.
I would like to emphasize that BASS BLOCKERS are key for the dash speakers. I did the upgrade and didn't do the bass blockers immediately and they would crap out at any decent volume due to the bass. I added the bass blockers and WOW what a difference- so clear!
 

Tintop

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Does anyone have a set of printable instructions on installation of the PNP harness & Amp install? Is everyone just going to the youtube video for installation? I'm having mine installed at a local shop and was hoping to be able to hand them some instructions. Thanks!
 

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Does anyone have a set of printable instructions on installation of the PNP harness & Amp install? Is everyone just going to the youtube video for installation? I'm having mine installed at a local shop and was hoping to be able to hand them some instructions. Thanks!
It is really simple-you just need to remove the plug on the lower right hand side once you pull the HVAC controls. Then plug in the harness and your off the to the races. Its almost impossible to screw it up.
 

ctandc

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Does anyone have a set of printable instructions on installation of the PNP harness & Amp install? Is everyone just going to the youtube video for installation? I'm having mine installed at a local shop and was hoping to be able to hand them some instructions. Thanks!

I wouldn't think a stereo shop would need instructions how to install a harness that literally plugs into the factory plugs. If you search this and other threads you can find PDF copies of the service manual instructions for removing the dash speaker covers, the LH an RH kick panel trim and the AC / RADIO panel that needs to be removed to get to the harness.

It's not hard. 2 bolts in the LH bottom dead pedal that holds the kick panel trim in (with clips) and 2 bolts on either side of the AC / Radio trim panel + the lower trim and the grab handle. Everything is else is just plastic clips. I've done it twice now and it literally takes 15min if that to remove all the panels.
 

Sherminiator

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Just be careful with the kick panel covers-the upper tab on them breaks very easily! I barely touched the drivers side one when it was off and it snapped off on me :(
 

cmcbronco

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Just be careful with the kick panel covers-the upper tab on them breaks very easily! I barely touched the drivers side one when it was off and it snapped off on me :(
You’re better off just pulling out the whole panel without attempting to remove the grill at all. Then it easily pops out from the inside which makes the reinstall easier.
 

Snowdogyyz

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I wouldn’t take it to a stereo shop that needs instructions. That’s just me.
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