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djn3400

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if you increased the gain on the key, and/or made eq changes in forscan, than the chimes will be obnoxiously loud.

to fix this, I changed the chimes to only play through the instrument cluster (using forscan)
How do you do this in forscan? I've made several other changes but haven't come across this one. Thanks!
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Blaven

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How do you do this in forscan? I've made several other changes but haven't come across this one. Thanks!
Yeah I haven't seen this, please explain what you changed or a link to where you found out how to do it.
 

BlarneyStoned

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Yeah I haven't seen this, please explain what you changed or a link to where you found out how to do it.
It's in one of the plain english settings, I don't have Forscan connected to my Bronco to get more specific, but the settings is something like "Chime Priority" default value is something like "Speaker Only" and one of the options is "Instrument Panel Only", I think in the IPC section.
 

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It's in one of the plain english settings, I don't have Forscan connected to my Bronco to get more specific, but the settings is something like "Chime Priority" default value is something like "Speaker Only" and one of the options is "Instrument Panel Only", I think in the IPC section.
Thanks. I'll have to take a look this weekend.
 

MCD1Bronco

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the IPC, not the as built, plain English settings. There are a few items named chimes…… can’t remember what it’s called exactly but it’s obvious. Change setting from speakers only to instrument cluster only.

I know things are less accurate there but I tried it and it worked. Lots of stuff said “disabled” that are actually enabled.

there are lots of tempting options to change but I refrained. Mostly. I also tried tilting mirrors in reverse, didn’t work.
 

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the IPC, not the as built, plain English settings. There are a few items named chimes…… can’t remember what it’s called exactly but it’s obvious. Change setting from speakers only to instrument cluster only.

I know things are less accurate there but I tried it and it worked. Lots of stuff said “disabled” that are actually enabled.

there are lots of tempting options to change but I refrained. Mostly. I also tried tilting mirrors in reverse, didn’t work.
Found it thanks!

Screenshot_20230610_133522_Photos.jpg
 

mattsmeesh

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Installed my kicker key, using the direct wire to the battery and a PnP harness. Turned it on and everything seems to be working fine, but I have a battery error now (see screenshots).

Any thoughts about what I might have done wrong, and what I need to do to fix it?

Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! Screenshot 2023-06-10 at 3.51.23 PM
Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! Screenshot 2023-06-10 at 3.52.18 PM
 

MCD1Bronco

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Where did you hook the wire to at the battery? Where did you ground? Pictures of install please
 

kevin.gt

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Where did you hook the wire to at the battery? Where did you ground? Pictures of install please
There’s a factory grounding location at the driver kick panel, and there’s a M6 battery terminal waiting for an accessory
 

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Do you have the specific model #? I see a few options but the free air ones look like they are 8 ohm
I went with the classic woofer - it is a paper cone and the fit is a little tight against the front (kick molding) but no noises or rattles. With the leather interior and carpet I will not be getting them wet.

I read someone who used the fiberglass ones and was happy (less front depth and water resistant) and a litte more sensitivity (efficient). I think that these might be my first choice if I did it again, but I am VERY pleased with the classics (bigger voice coil and thus more a litte more power handling capability). I don't think that you could go wrong with either, and both are as good as what you get from the big names...

Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! 1687180271070



And here is a new offering that I would have considered if it had been available.
Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! 1687182077493
 
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MCD1Bronco

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There’s a factory grounding location at the driver kick panel, and there’s a M6 battery terminal waiting for an accessory
yes I was referring to Matt’s post where he was having electrical issues after installing.

mines grounded to a ground location behind the glove box toward the center stack
 

yokayyb

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Any recommendations for an alternative amp to the kicker key?

Currently upgraded dash to focals 30w 4ohms and rears to kicker cs 6.5. Not planning on adding a sub.
 

BigBend530

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Just installed Key 200.4 and sound is a little more clear and louder but very flat and factory tone settings do nothing to sound. Had previously installed JL C1's in dash and kick panels (components) and Focals in rear pods. Had good sound and bass. After Key 200 everything seems flat.

Wired amp to battery, ground at factory spot near driver wiper. Ran DSP with car off and then adjusted gains with car running and left them near vertical.

DC
Fader On
Compression On
Bi-Amp Off
EQ on
Time delay on
Hi pass off.

No Forscan or Soundbar update for rear speakers done.

Any suggestions on changing settings, etc.?
 

MCD1Bronco

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turn EQ off, made a big difference for me. try the time delay as well. also you won't need to redo the tuning process when making these changes
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