Rocketeer Rick

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I would rather have a Torsen that bolted in the M190, it would solve the vast majority of what I would want/need without having to go to the M210. If you need the M210, then you should definitely consider the Sasquatch or the Badlands. As others have said, it's a great bang for the buck.
Unfortunately, Ford throws a wrench in the works by welding on the ring gear of all M190 axles. So, even if you buy a Torsen, you'll still need to swap out the ring and pinion gears. Probably still cheaper than swapping in a 210, and all that entails, but not as clean as it could be...
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MrGreen55

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Dumb Question Which one would be better for 37's the 5.13 or 5.38 on bandlands(SAS)?
 

Rocketeer Rick

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I am not sure if you can do a hero switch but normally an e-locker just needs 12 volts to engage so any 12 volt switched power will do.
Hypothetically, yes. But it is slightly more complicated than that. Even if you're willing to throw aside the operational safeguards that Ford programs into the control module (max 25mph, no more than 30 RPM differential rate, etc) for engagement, there's also the activation current vs hold current to consider.

Maybe you won't care, but Ford cuts the current to the lock actuator solenoid by 50% after 30 seconds of operation so as to not overheat and damage the coil if used for more than a few minutes. Someone clever can probably design a module to do this pretty readily, but I would caution against just letting it have "any 12 volt switched power". If you simply let it draw whatever current it wants, you can possibly burn it out. Then no more e-locker.
 

HPNQ420

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Hypothetically, yes. But it is slightly more complicated than that. Even if you're willing to throw aside the operational safeguards that Ford programs into the control module (max 25mph, no more than 30 RPM differential rate, etc) for engagement, there's also the activation current vs hold current to consider.

Maybe you won't care, but Ford cuts the current to the lock actuator solenoid by 50% after 30 seconds of operation so as to not overheat and damage the coil if used for more than a few minutes. Someone clever can probably design a module to do this pretty readily, but I would caution against just letting it have "any 12 volt switched power". If you simply let it draw whatever current it wants, you can possibly burn it out. Then no more e-locker.
Thank you for that information. Do they accomplish this by dropping the voltage applied?
 
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mpeugeot

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Unfortunately, Ford throws a wrench in the works by welding on the ring gear of all M190 axles. So, even if you buy a Torsen, you'll still need to swap out the ring and pinion gears. Probably still cheaper than swapping in a 210, and all that entails, but not as clean as it could be...
Ya, that's true, but even swapping the ring and pinion gears along with a $500-600 Torsen would be a pretty slick upgrade for those not going hard core, but still want a little extra traction at times up front. It would be probably somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000-1200 without labor, which honestly is not a bad deal - still Sasquatch or Badlands would be the overall right call if you want the front locker.
 

Rocketeer Rick

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Thank you fo

Thank you for that information. Do they accomplish this by dropping the voltage applied?
I don't really know. What I do understand is that on the 9.75" locker (in F150/Raptor), they apply about 5 amps to start. Then cut it down once its been on long enough to ensure lock engagement. But I presume its managed with a body control module, so it might well not be operating on 12V, as you suggest.

One bit of good news is that Dana designed the solenoid to pop right off of the end of the locker body. So if you did burn it out, its replaceable (assuming you can buy the part). At least this is true for the M220, based on studying the service manual for Ranger. I assume they'll do the same on the 210.
 
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Rocketeer Rick

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Ya, that's true, but even swapping the ring and pinion gears along with a $500-600 Torsen would be a pretty slick upgrade for those not going hard core, but still want a little extra traction at times up front. It would be probably somewhere in the neighborhood of $1000-1200 without labor, which honestly is not a bad deal - still Sasquatch or Badlands would be the overall right call if you want the front locker.
I agree with everything you said. (y)
 

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I don't really know. What I do understand is that on the 9.75" locker (in F150/Raptor), they apply about 5 amps to start. Then cut it down once its been on long enough to ensure lock engagement. But I presume its managed with a body control module, so it might well not be operating on 12V, as you suggest.

One bit of good news is that Dana designed the solenoid to pop right off of the end of the locker body. So if you did burn it out, its replaceable (assuming you can buy the part). At least this is true for the M220, based on studying the service manual for Ranger. I assume they'll do the same on the 210.
Looks like you can get what you need from Eaton if it is not supplied:
https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/e...ocker_Installation_Instructions_July_2004.pdf
 

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I would rather have a Torsen that bolted in the M190, it would solve the vast majority of what I would want/need without having to go to the M210. If you need the M210, then you should definitely consider the Sasquatch or the Badlands. As others have said, it's a great bang for the buck.
Simple!

The M190 would use Eaton 912A585 and JK/JL D30 gears to match your factory ratio.
 

MaverickMan

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and when they are done upgrading they will hate themselves for not ordering from the factory to begin with.

It only makes sense to upgrade to 5.13 and 5.38 as it did not come from the factory with these gear choices
I saw it on the parts list before i ordered with the Sasquatch package, but it just doesn’t make sense NOT to order a trim level that has it already at this point. Labor intensive and it’s not going to be cheap when it’s all said and done.

That being said, it’s awesome that Ford is offering this for those that messed up, or just bought what they could get at the time.

  • If upgrading from M190 FDU, M210 half shafts and M210 front driveshaft required
I actually think its a good deal. Alot of guys are just going to be buying take off bilsteins and doing their own lifts. As far as labor intensive a axle swap is barely a weekend job especially if it was made for it. At 1800 plus shafts and craigslist bilsteins and craigslist tires you are still looking at $5000 max for a weekend build and end up with 37 or bigger and 5+ gears. Dont forget that pretty "built not bought" sticker.
 

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BUT you don't get the factory warranty

I actually think its a good deal. Alot of guys are just going to be buying take off bilsteins and doing their own lifts. As far as labor intensive a axle swap is barely a weekend job especially if it was made for it. At 1800 plus shafts and craigslist bilsteins and craigslist tires you are still looking at $5000 max for a weekend build and end up with 37 or bigger and 5+ gears. Dont forget that pretty "built not bought" sticker.
 

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I just want a rear lock with 3.73 gears for my wifes snow bronco!!
 

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mpeugeot

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Simple!

The M190 would use Eaton 912A585 and JK/JL D30 gears to match your factory ratio.

Thank you... I wasn't exactly sure, I was looking at that but not confident enough that I got it right to be sure! I don't even have my Bronco yet... Thank you again!!!

So I was able to find both on Amazon:

Eaton 912A585 Detroit Truetrac 27 Spline Differential for Dana 30 $490.25
Yukon (YG D30-427) High Performance Ring and Pinion Gear Set for Dana 30 $258.76

If that's correct, mind you, the gear setup needs to be done correctly, and although I have done gear setup in the past, I would rather take the differential out and to a shop to have it done right - because I know that they will save me time getting it dialed in.

Correct me if I got anything wrong above, because for $800, that seems like a great low-buck deal plus a bit of labor in getting the gears dialed in.
 
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