M220 e-Locker Differential Deep Dive Overview - skip if you're TLDR prone...

[Hey Buddy]

Looks like the common solenoid saver circuits drop voltage, so that's probably the ideal way to go.

Many thanks for your quick and insightful reply. I'm one of the guys doing our own Sasquatch conversions and am at the point of wiring up the lockers.

Did you add the Ford M220 locking rear axle to a non-sas Base model? If so, could you update us & tell us how you did it? I want to buy the M220 4.46 rear locking axle assembly & wire it to my aux switches, but hoping you can tell me more?

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[DGE1993]

@Just_Jim did you ever get the rear locker wired up? I think there is a few of us the are curious how you did it.

 

[Just_Jim]

@Just_Jim did you ever get the rear locker wired up? I think there is a few of us the are curious how you did it.

Months ago. I just used straight 12v via switches for both F&R lockers. Switches are in the console.

 

[DGE1993]

Months ago. I just used straight 12v via switches for both F&R lockers. Switches are in the console.

I like the switch location!

 

[rrpcc]

Months ago. I just used straight 12v via switches for both F&R lockers. Switches are in the console.

I like the switch location!
[/QUOTE

Months ago. I just used straight 12v via switches for both F&R lockers. Switches are in the console.

 

[rrpcc]

Just_Jim, are you saying you direct wired to the battery the e-locker 220 4.46 Ford axle upgrade in a manual Base? You did not connect into some existing module to manage everything, ie: initial voltage , subsequent voltage, what speed it can engage, etc. Just want to be sure I understand.

 

[Just_Jim]

Just_Jim, are you saying you direct wired to the battery the e-locker 220 4.46 Ford axle upgrade in a manual Base? You did not connect into some existing module to manage everything, ie: initial voltage , subsequent voltage, what speed it can engage, etc. Just want to be sure I understand.

I have them run off the accessory power, with 5A in-line fuses wired before the 20A rocker switches; blown fuse means switch won't light up thus giving visual indication there's no locking happening.

Not sure where you came up with manual base from? I have a slush box Big Bend with Mid package and signature LEDs front & rear.

I also have 4.7's not that it matters.


I have a feeling Ford reduces the voltage after engagement for improved fuel economy via lower drag from the alternator.

And yes, I have full manual control. I can run front locked with the rear open doing 90 mph if I were to want to (not sure of any situation I ever would - but I can).

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