Non-Badlands swaybar disconnect.
Very simple, takes under 5 minutes if you're prepared. Less time than it takes to air down.
13/16 socket, Ryobi 18v cordless impact and 4 zip ties. Remove bottom bolt of end link underside of LCA. It will take some effort to push the bar up for the end link to clear the LCA and rotate back against the swaybar. Zip tie it to the bar, I used two because I'm just that guy. Bailing wire would be better. The bar will not rotate on it's own, lots of bind in there. There are no touch marks after me stretching it pretty hard.
Functionally, there is a lot more roll on the street,... imagine that.
It does wallow around turning even moderately hard. That said, I drove it at 70 mph in crosswinds with wheel ruts. It's not as stable as with the bar, but not at all uncomfortable. I'd say that it still drives better than a solid front axle vehicle. Now that I think about it, the position sensitive Bills actually did a nice job with the bar gone. There is a lot more roll, but no more oscillations.
Off road the difference is profound. Seriously. I was seeking out the cross axle stuff and there's so much more articulation in the front that it more or less leaves the body flat(er). The overall traction is much, much better, overall download on all four corners is improved. In the spots where one front drops down before the other, the other front tucks up much, much farther, and it takes a a lot more to lift a rear. Stability and traction are massively improved. I would say the there's a good 5" difference in total motion. Interesting side note, I believe this actually reduced overall center clearance.
Reinstall, as seen above, definitely clean it out first as I'm sure all that shit will gall the hell out of the alloy LCA. Highly recommend doing this before tackling the tough trails, and I see no reason to spend $300 on a kit.
Very simple, takes under 5 minutes if you're prepared. Less time than it takes to air down.
13/16 socket, Ryobi 18v cordless impact and 4 zip ties. Remove bottom bolt of end link underside of LCA. It will take some effort to push the bar up for the end link to clear the LCA and rotate back against the swaybar. Zip tie it to the bar, I used two because I'm just that guy. Bailing wire would be better. The bar will not rotate on it's own, lots of bind in there. There are no touch marks after me stretching it pretty hard.
Functionally, there is a lot more roll on the street,... imagine that.
Off road the difference is profound. Seriously. I was seeking out the cross axle stuff and there's so much more articulation in the front that it more or less leaves the body flat(er). The overall traction is much, much better, overall download on all four corners is improved. In the spots where one front drops down before the other, the other front tucks up much, much farther, and it takes a a lot more to lift a rear. Stability and traction are massively improved. I would say the there's a good 5" difference in total motion. Interesting side note, I believe this actually reduced overall center clearance.
Reinstall, as seen above, definitely clean it out first as I'm sure all that shit will gall the hell out of the alloy LCA. Highly recommend doing this before tackling the tough trails, and I see no reason to spend $300 on a kit.
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