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Like many, I plan to use my long-awaited Bronco for long road trips.
Like slightly fewer, I'm a bit of an NVH snob. I've had the dash off my Mustang probably 10 times searching for rattles and lining everything with felt and double-sided tape before it was silenced to my liking.
My Bronco didn't have a single rattle (thank you interior panel engineers!) but it did have a significant amount of wind noise entering the cabin from the top. "Entering" is the keyword here as it sounded like little windows were cracked open all around the vehicle.

After this exercise, wind noise was greatly reduced and sounds like it's staying outside of the cabin. I didn't use a proper sound meter, but a phone app recorded a consistent and measurable improvement at highway speed.
Haven't had issues at the car wash, though I only use the handheld pressure-washer style. Rain and snow are no issues.

Performed on a 2023 Bronco, 4-Door, Wildtrak, Sasquatch, MIC Hard Top.

Most of this technique is based on a previous write-up and I recommend reading that as well:
orion1224
MIC Noise Reduction Guide - Wind Sound - aka More (or Less) Cowbell

Part Numbers from McMaster-Carr
  1. 93085K577 (5/8"w x 5/8"h 20ft)
  2. 93085K556 (1/2"w x 1/2"h 10ft)
  3. 93085K52 (3/8"w x 7/16"h 10ft)
  4. 93085K525 (5/8"w x 3/8"h 10ft)
  5. 4463K163 (3/4" ID x 3/4" wall 6ft, Qty 2)
Approx. cost --> $130 in materials + $50 in shipping and taxes --> Total $180
1674411081042.png


These parts cost ~3x as much as the overseas version, but when I bought those and opened the bag it off-gassed pretty bad and didn't want that in the cabin. I also found those to be a bit thin to maintain a good seal long term.
These materials have thicker foam but are still compliant, and are Made in USA so I trust they will last longer through the elements. After re-doing strips multiple times, I found these are the sizes that seal well while keeping panels flush without excessive force to close. It takes a bit more finagling to get the front panels in their place, but once they're in you're good!

I've laid things up differently, based on a combination of trial/error and intuition. I believe the "zipper" style on the front panel-to-windshield is more effective.
The shipping for the "pool noodle" is what drives much of the cost... you can use the one that's available at your home improvement store, but those are split and a bit small. The one listed above is thicker wall, 1/4" larger OD, and not split. This seals better and should hold its shape longer.

My top also came with the front weather stripping not properly attached. The double-sided patch was completely dry on one side, the underside strip was torn, and the adhesive under the strip was uncured. These pictures/instructions are at the end. It may not affect everyone, but it absolutely contributed to my wind noise as the T-joint was not getting a good seal. Anyone taking their front panels off should check this.

And lastly - this is a good opportunity to clean! Not just with acetone/alcohol before you bond, but the interior of the rear (trunk) top came COVERED in a layer of dark gray dust. Potentially MIC top manufacturing dust? Be sure to remove this before sticking anything to it, and probably for health reasons...

Fine print: I'm only responsible to damage to my own vehicle, not yours. Any and all modifications performed to your vehicle are at your own risk.

Now onto the fun part!

Install Notes

All weather stripping should be applied to the "angled" section of the top, not the horizontal section. The previous write-up has additional images of this. I haven't tried, but many appeared to struggle with adhesion to the horizontal section.

And remember to clean all your adhesion spots before pressing the strips on!

1674411671897.png


Front Panel

3 different types of stripping.
I wanted to cover as much length as possible so I went over rubber already laid down.
However, I didn't cover or move the soft fabric or the drain filter material. I gave my best judgement to keep channels clear.
The rear stripping is visible inside the cabin, but unless you have a flashlight looking up, you tend not to see anything. Looks good regardless.

1674411900577.png


Mid Panel

Just one strip along the rear curved section.
As before, only visible if you're looking for it. Spend an extra couple minutes laying it down and it will look nice.
I'm biased, but I think it actually looks nicer with the seal ;)

1674411935105.png


Rear Panel

2 types of stripping.
Follow the plastic panel with the smaller stripping first. I added a small strip at the top. I only recommend one strip so water doesn't get trapped.
Recommend keeping the drain-filter clear (mesh sponge in front and above the small strips, hiding inside factory stripping).
I cut the larger pieces angled so it mates up nice. Hard to picture but you can see a very mild "crush" on the stripping when installed.
Still not as quiet as I would ideally like, but it's a significant improvement from how it arrived.

1674411974046.png


The "Gutter"

This insulation is 1/4" larger OD, thicker wall, and unslit when compared to a typical home improvement store version. This should hold its shape better and form a better seal over time.
Even though it's larger, it's still easily pushed through the gap between the chassis and installed rear panel.
No fitment issues putting on roof panels or sitting flush.
Can leave it at the full 6' but you might see it in the upper corners when the trunk is open. Cut a bit off and it will tuck behind the cage out-of-sight.

1674412017688.png


Front Outboard Latch Bracket


(Edit) Thanks to @SROC3 for mentioning this in the comments.
With the front panels removed, the outboard latch bracket bolts are accessible.
These have small but reasonable adjustment inboard and outboard. My driver side one was slammed outboard and I moved them inboard.
Before-and-after show that the front T-joint gets some better compression with the bracket shifted inboard.

1674519558879.png


Front Weather Stripping Adhesion

This was an issue when I received my Bronco.
The front leading edge of the weather stripping was misaligned causing wind noise near the T-joint. Upon inspection I found out the stripping wasn't placed or bonded correctly.
I don't know if the "sticky gunk" is per-spec, but the other adhesive strips were clearly not right.
Pealed off what was left of the sticker adhesives, cleaned it off (acetone does NOT work on the gunk, but rubbing alcohol did), lightly scuffed with sandpaper, cleaned again, and bonded it back together with a minimal layer of JB-Weld.

1674412067916.png
Get your clamps ready...
1674412099699.png


Good luck and hope this helps others!
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Herbie

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Herbie

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Did you even read OP's post? He included that very link as a reference in his prelude.
Easy Karl, why so aggressive? I did read it, but must have missed the link. Was just trying to be helpful, no need to jump down my throat. Apologies OP. Nice of you to take the time on that write up.
 

SurfsUp85

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Like many, I plan to use my long-awaited Bronco for long road trips.
Like slightly fewer, I'm a bit of an NVH snob. I've had the dash off my Mustang probably 10 times searching for rattles and lining everything with felt and double-sided tape before it was silenced to my liking.
My Bronco didn't have a single rattle (thank you interior panel engineers!) but it did have a significant amount of wind noise entering the cabin from the top. "Entering" is the keyword here as it sounded like little windows were cracked open all around the vehicle.

After this exercise, wind noise was greatly reduced and sounds like it's staying outside of the cabin. I didn't use a proper sound meter, but a phone app recorded a consistent and measurable improvement at highway speed.
Haven't had issues at the car wash, though I only use the handheld pressure-washer style. Rain and snow are no issues.

Performed on a 2023 Bronco, 4-Door, Wildtrak, Sasquatch, MIC Hard Top.

Most of this technique is based on a previous write-up and I recommend reading that as well:
orion1224
MIC Noise Reduction Guide - Wind Sound - aka More (or Less) Cowbell

Part Numbers from McMaster-Carr
  1. 93085K577 (5/8"w x 5/8"h 20ft)
  2. 93085K556 (1/2"w x 1/2"h 10ft)
  3. 93085K52 (3/8"w x 7/16"h 10ft)
  4. 93085K525 (5/8"w x 3/8"h 10ft)
  5. 4463K163 (3/4" ID x 3/4" wall 6ft, Qty 2)
Approx. cost --> $130 in materials + $50 in shipping and taxes --> Total $180
1674411081042.png


These parts cost ~3x as much as the overseas version, but when I bought those and opened the bag it off-gassed pretty bad and didn't want that in the cabin. I also found those to be a bit thin to maintain a good seal long term.
These materials have thicker foam but are still compliant, and are Made in USA so I trust they will last longer through the elements. After re-doing strips multiple times, I found these are the sizes that seal well while keeping panels flush without excessive force to close. It takes a bit more finagling to get the front panels in their place, but once they're in you're good!

I've laid things up differently, based on a combination of trial/error and intuition. I believe the "zipper" style on the front panel-to-windshield is more effective.
The shipping for the "pool noodle" is what drives much of the cost... you can use the one that's available at your home improvement store, but those are split and a bit small. The one listed above is thicker wall, 1/4" larger OD, and not split. This seals better and should hold its shape longer.

My top also came with the front weather stripping not properly attached. The double-sided patch was completely dry on one side, the underside strip was torn, and the adhesive under the strip was uncured. These pictures/instructions are at the end. It may not affect everyone, but it absolutely contributed to my wind noise as the T-joint was not getting a good seal. Anyone taking their front panels off should check this.

And lastly - this is a good opportunity to clean! Not just with acetone/alcohol before you bond, but the interior of the rear (trunk) top came COVERED in a layer of dark gray dust. Potentially MIC top manufacturing dust? Be sure to remove this before sticking anything to it, and probably for health reasons...

Fine print: I'm only responsible to damage to my own vehicle, not yours. Any and all modifications performed to your vehicle are at your own risk.

Now onto the fun part!

Install Notes

All weather stripping should be applied to the "angled" section of the top, not the horizontal section. The previous write-up has additional images of this. I haven't tried, but many appeared to struggle with adhesion to this section.

And remember to clean all your adhesion spots before pressing the strips on!

1674411671897.png


Front Panel

3 different types of stripping.
I wanted to cover as much length as possible so I went over rubber already laid down.
However, I didn't cover or move the soft fabric or the drain filter material. I gave my best judgement to keep channels clear.
The rear stripping is visible inside the cabin, but unless you have a flashlight looking up, you tend not to see anything. Looks good regardless.

1674411900577.png


Mid Panel

Just one strip along the rear curved section.
As before, only visible if you're looking for it. Spend an extra couple minutes laying it down and it will look nice.
I'm biased, but I think it actually looks nicer with the seal ;)

1674411935105.png


Rear Panel

2 types of stripping.
Follow the plastic panel with the smaller stripping first. I added a small strip at the top. I only recommend one strip so water doesn't get trapped.
Recommend keeping the drain-filter clear (mesh sponge in front and above the small strips, hiding inside factory stripping).
I cut the larger pieces angled so it mates up nice. Hard to picture but you can see a very mild "crush" on the stripping when installed.
Still not as quiet as I would ideally like, but it's a significant improvement from how it arrived.

1674411974046.png


The "Gutter"

This insulation is 1/4" larger OD, thicker wall, and unslit when compared to a typical home improvement store version. This should hold its shape better and form a better seal over time.
Even though it's larger, it's still easily pushed through the gap between the chassis and installed rear panel.
No fitment issues putting on roof panels or sitting flush.
Can leave it at the full 6' but you might see it in the upper corners when the trunk is open. Cut a bit off and it will tuck behind the cage out-of-sight.

1674412017688.png


Front Weather Stripping Adhesion


This was an issue when I received my Bronco.
The front leading edge of the weather stripping was misaligned causing wind noise near the T-joint. Upon inspection I found out the stripping wasn't placed or bonded correctly.
I don't know if the "sticky gunk" is per-spec, but the other adhesive strips were clearly not right.
Pealed off what was left of the sticker adhesives, cleaned it off (acetone does NOT work on the gunk, but rubbing alcohol did), lightly scuffed with sandpaper, cleaned again, and bonded it back together with a minimal layer of JB-Weld.

1674412067916.png
Get your clamps ready...
1674412099699.png


Good luck and hope this helps others!
Cheers!!!

I just hit 5000km on my Everglades and am getting these exact noises that I didn't have or didn't notice before.

Perfect timing🤙
 

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indio22

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Nice writeup thanks for sharing - will bookmark for future reference (assuming I ever receive a hardtop Bronco).
 
OP
OP
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Easy Karl, why so aggressive? I did read it, but must have missed the link. Was just trying to be helpful, no need to jump down my throat. Apologies OP. Nice of you to take the time on that write up.
In your defense, this is admittedly a very long write-up. I won't fault ya for missing two sentences out of this novel, ha!
 

FellowM3

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@BroncoWhisperer Thanks for this! I actually had this on my list to do. I am installing a roof rack Saturday, so I figured now is the time. I ordered everything thru McMaster and theyre local, so I will pick up.

I noticed on the original post you referred to, that they added a Z-shaped gasket on the rear clam, but you didnt install anything there. Was there any reason?

Pics from that post for reference:
1674486065757.png

1674486094370.png


1674486062330.png
 
Last edited:

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Geo

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OP
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@BroncoWhisperer Thanks for this! I actually had this on my list to do. I am installing a roof rack Saturday, so I figured now is the time. I ordered everything thru McMaster and theyre local, so I will pick up.

I noticed on the original post you referred to, that they added a Z-shaped gasket on the rear clam, but you didnt install anything there. Was there any reason?
Glad you spotted this!.

I actually ordered one (Amazon) but it took forever to ship so I cancelled the order. Didn't spot an equivalent on McMaster-Carr.
Some people also appeared to have issues with long-term adhesion. Combo of these events lead me to just leave it off.

So there isn't a real reason why you should or shouldn't incorporate it. It could be directionally correct to include it and easy to rip it off if there are issues.
 

FellowM3

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Got it. I just ordered off amazon and will try this saturday and let you guys know.

Thanks for this write up. Great pics and super clear
 

Coldsmoke

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I've bookmarked this thread and will try it in the spring. I tried using the OP post with all the weather stripping that was recommended from Amazon and its crap. The adhesive wouldn't at all and I tried using both acetone and 99% isopropyl alcohol to thoroughly clean all surfaces. I was able to have minimal success using a heat gun to heat the adhesive, but overall it was a waste of money.
I have much greater confidence with the part numbers and vendor provided in this post because it is all spec'ed with 3m adhesive.
Thanks to BroncoWhisperer for locating McMaster Carr and this post.
 

Ksjrb03

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I did this using the products from the earlier post, and removed it all after a couple weeks. It actually made the noise worse for the front panels, and they did not sit level. I was going to investigate other weatherstripping options then just gave up on the MIC panels and got a Skyrider lol. Great work on finding a better solution for weatherstripping. I don't see pics of the panels installed, they still sit flush with this for you?
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