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negativezero

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Now I don’t have fancy measuring tools but I have 2 ears and it sounds different, even if it’s just my subconscious telling me it’s different.
I'm the data guy from a few pages ago, and I made the improvements to the windshield + first (only) row of panels this week. I'm aiming to take a long series of measurements probably tomorrow morning to see the difference that the easy half makes.

No ETA at all on doing the hardshell back improvements, but at least we'll see how much of a difference the quick fixes make.
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firefox33

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So, we know these are Built Wild... but my wife didn't appreciate it sounding like a hurricane everyday. Who wouldn't want to hear the subtle guitar, bass, drums and notes of your favorite music on the sound system for which you paid? After reading 4+ threads and looking at various modifications people made, I decided to create a single guide here of everything I did to reduce the interior noise. The ideas are not all my own, and credit is due to those individuals whose brilliance came first. Shoutouts to some of those brilliant individuals- jlatigo, mountainbronco, Geo2 and more that I can't put my finger on.

My family says it's significantly quieter now, and I tend to do whatever they say. Hope this helps enhance your ride!

Total cost is about $75. Total install time is ~1 hour if your hard top is already off. If it's not off, what are you waiting for?

Specs
  • 4 Door- most of the below applies to both 2 and 4 door models
  • Wildtrak, Sasquatch
  • MIC Hard Top

Grocery List
(These are not affiliate links. I don't receive anything from you clicking on them!)
  1. KX Automotive Universal New Weather Stripping EPDM Rubber Seal Strip D-Shape (20')
  2. Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In (1 roll)
  3. KX Automotive Universal D-Shape Door Seal 0.47" Height X 0.55" Width Weather Stripping (10')
  4. Automotive Weather Stripping Door Window Rubber Seal Strip Z Shape (Buy the "Z" Shape- you only need about 3' of this, so you'll have a lot left over)
  5. Armacell 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation (You need 2 of these)

General Install Notes
  • Clean all surfaces before attempting to stick the adhesive
  • Let the adhesive bond- i.e. flex your muscles and secure firmly!
  • Use a regular scissors to cut things to length- most are approximate, and size doesn't matter as much (right?). The Z Shape strip is more visible, and you probably want to measure (hint, 15.5").
  • Some seals are hidden, and some are visible... take your time. If you screw up, cut a new strip. ;)

From the front of the vehicle working to the back...

Windshield
  • In the front channel, adhere #1 in the Grocery List inside the full length of the channel.
  • Cut 4 short strips of #2 and stick them 2 each, side by side, vertically in the ends of the channel.
  • All of this is hidden with the top on. With the top off, it will either look factory installed or like a small kid used the scissors if you don't cut straight. I have both results.
Windshield.jpg



Front Panels
  • Use the #1 stripping for all of these.
  • Primary guidance is to adhere the middle strip that goes on the Driver’s Front Panel to the slightly raised portion of the roof. Don’t adhere it to the top/roof section as it won’t allow the panel to close enough. It also makes for a cleaner look if you install on the raised portion.
  • The two strips that face the windshield are not visible. The strip that runs between the two panels is minimally visible.
Front Panels.jpg



Mid Panel
  • Secure #3 along the length of the mid panel. This is the curved side of the panel that faces towards the back.
  • Snuggle the stripping right along the edge and you'll look like a pro. This is visible from the inside once installed.
  • Super easy, right?
Mid Panel.jpg



Rear Panel
  • This is the fun one and makes a big sound impact!
  • The picture is probably the best explanation of what goes where.
  • I'm not sure if the top most #3 install is needed- and I forgot to take another picture of it properly adhered. It basically curves along a small section on top. I had some extra stripping, so I used it.
  • The small square of #2 goes on top of a similar, but thinner material that Ford already has in that same place.
  • The Z Shape #4 is great stuff, and I think makes the exterior even look a little sleek (no one ever described a Bronco as sleek, right?). I'd measure this one and cut accordingly- I did 15.5". Adhere it right along the edge of the panel. This helps with wind noise by sealing the gap between the frame of the Bronco and the rear panel.
  • This is not visible except for #4 (Z Shape stripping).
Interior View:
Rear Panel.jpg


Exterior View:
Rear Panel Exterior.jpg


To Pool Noodle or to Wrap Your Pipe
  • I saw various opinions on which material worked best, which ones disintegrated in the elements, how to secure, etc.
  • I decided to use the rubber Armacell pipe wrap - #5 on the Grocery List. It comes in a 6’ length, and I left it as-is.
  • I peeled off the self-adhering tape and stuck it to itself.
  • Rather than figure out how to secure it with the top off and/or how to not make it look bad… I decided I’d simply lay it in the roof gutter when I put the hard top on. Otherwise, it will sit in storage in my garage if the top is off.
  • We’ll see if it lasts- easy and inexpensive to replace.
Armacell Rubber.jpg



So that's about it. I suggest ordering everything and installing all at once when you have the roof off vs string betting the process.

Happy Sound Dampening!
Again thanks for the great post. Planning on doing today or tomorrow. Two questions. Regarding the mid panel did you do just the curved side ? 3 sides? Or all 4? Secondly regarding the rear panel molding #1 is shown but not really discussed as to where it actually goes. #4 on the edge, then 3 beside or against #4, then #1 against #3 ?
Again thanks for the post.
 

firefox33

Outer Banks
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Michigan
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Lincoln
Your Bronco Model
Outer Banks
Clubs
 
So, we know these are Built Wild... but my wife didn't appreciate it sounding like a hurricane everyday. Who wouldn't want to hear the subtle guitar, bass, drums and notes of your favorite music on the sound system for which you paid? After reading 4+ threads and looking at various modifications people made, I decided to create a single guide here of everything I did to reduce the interior noise. The ideas are not all my own, and credit is due to those individuals whose brilliance came first. Shoutouts to some of those brilliant individuals- jlatigo, mountainbronco, Geo2 and more that I can't put my finger on.

My family says it's significantly quieter now, and I tend to do whatever they say. Hope this helps enhance your ride!

Total cost is about $75. Total install time is ~1 hour if your hard top is already off. If it's not off, what are you waiting for?

Specs
  • 4 Door- most of the below applies to both 2 and 4 door models
  • Wildtrak, Sasquatch
  • MIC Hard Top

Grocery List
(These are not affiliate links. I don't receive anything from you clicking on them!)
  1. KX Automotive Universal New Weather Stripping EPDM Rubber Seal Strip D-Shape (20')
  2. Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In (1 roll)
  3. KX Automotive Universal D-Shape Door Seal 0.47" Height X 0.55" Width Weather Stripping (10')
  4. Automotive Weather Stripping Door Window Rubber Seal Strip Z Shape (Buy the "Z" Shape- you only need about 3' of this, so you'll have a lot left over)
  5. Armacell 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation (You need 2 of these)

General Install Notes
  • Clean all surfaces before attempting to stick the adhesive
  • Let the adhesive bond- i.e. flex your muscles and secure firmly!
  • Use a regular scissors to cut things to length- most are approximate, and size doesn't matter as much (right?). The Z Shape strip is more visible, and you probably want to measure (hint, 15.5").
  • Some seals are hidden, and some are visible... take your time. If you screw up, cut a new strip. ;)

From the front of the vehicle working to the back...

Windshield
  • In the front channel, adhere #1 in the Grocery List inside the full length of the channel.
  • Cut 4 short strips of #2 and stick them 2 each, side by side, vertically in the ends of the channel.
  • All of this is hidden with the top on. With the top off, it will either look factory installed or like a small kid used the scissors if you don't cut straight. I have both results.
Windshield.jpg



Front Panels
  • Use the #1 stripping for all of these.
  • Primary guidance is to adhere the middle strip that goes on the Driver’s Front Panel to the slightly raised portion of the roof. Don’t adhere it to the top/roof section as it won’t allow the panel to close enough. It also makes for a cleaner look if you install on the raised portion.
  • The two strips that face the windshield are not visible. The strip that runs between the two panels is minimally visible.
Front Panels.jpg



Mid Panel
  • Secure #3 along the length of the mid panel. This is the curved side of the panel that faces towards the back.
  • Snuggle the stripping right along the edge and you'll look like a pro. This is visible from the inside once installed.
  • Super easy, right?
Mid Panel.jpg



Rear Panel
  • This is the fun one and makes a big sound impact!
  • The picture is probably the best explanation of what goes where.
  • I'm not sure if the top most #3 install is needed- and I forgot to take another picture of it properly adhered. It basically curves along a small section on top. I had some extra stripping, so I used it.
  • The small square of #2 goes on top of a similar, but thinner material that Ford already has in that same place.
  • The Z Shape #4 is great stuff, and I think makes the exterior even look a little sleek (no one ever described a Bronco as sleek, right?). I'd measure this one and cut accordingly- I did 15.5". Adhere it right along the edge of the panel. This helps with wind noise by sealing the gap between the frame of the Bronco and the rear panel.
  • This is not visible except for #4 (Z Shape stripping).
Interior View:
Rear Panel.jpg


Exterior View:
Rear Panel Exterior.jpg


To Pool Noodle or to Wrap Your Pipe
  • I saw various opinions on which material worked best, which ones disintegrated in the elements, how to secure, etc.
  • I decided to use the rubber Armacell pipe wrap - #5 on the Grocery List. It comes in a 6’ length, and I left it as-is.
  • I peeled off the self-adhering tape and stuck it to itself.
  • Rather than figure out how to secure it with the top off and/or how to not make it look bad… I decided I’d simply lay it in the roof gutter when I put the hard top on. Otherwise, it will sit in storage in my garage if the top is off.
  • We’ll see if it lasts- easy and inexpensive to replace.
Armacell Rubber.jpg



So that's about it. I suggest ordering everything and installing all at once when you have the roof off vs string betting the process.

Happy Sound Dampening!
Missing C pillar part.
Did all but the rear panel. When I removed the top rear panel I discovered a missing plastic filler piece on the right side of the C pillar. Attached are photos. First photo is the left side with filler, second is right side missing the plastic filler and last is the filler removed for photos. I can’t see any function for the part other than a filler which may be there for wind noise.
Anyone else missing this part?

A98E9616-7A44-4AC6-AC7C-C2963B0405B2.jpeg


C720074D-5A39-4D80-BF4C-979F0ED24139.jpeg


7738AB3D-6541-4697-BB4D-24545F7D7965.jpeg
 
OP
OP
orion1224

orion1224

Wildtrak
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Missing C pillar part.
Did all but the rear panel. When I removed the top rear panel I discovered a missing plastic filler piece on the right side of the C pillar. Attached are photos. First photo is the left side with filler, second is right side missing the plastic filler and last is the filler removed for photos. I can’t see any function for the part other than a filler which may be there for wind noise.
Anyone else missing this part?

A98E9616-7A44-4AC6-AC7C-C2963B0405B2.jpeg


C720074D-5A39-4D80-BF4C-979F0ED24139.jpeg


7738AB3D-6541-4697-BB4D-24545F7D7965.jpeg
That’s odd. Appears to be a mfg defect?
 
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orion1224

orion1224

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Wildtrak
Again thanks for the great post. Planning on doing today or tomorrow. Two questions. Regarding the mid panel did you do just the curved side ? 3 sides? Or all 4? Secondly regarding the rear panel molding #1 is shown but not really discussed as to where it actually goes. #4 on the edge, then 3 beside or against #4, then #1 against #3 ?
Again thanks for the post.
On the mid panel, I only did the curved section as no where else seemed to need it.

In the rear- I did 4, 3, 1, 3 in that order from front to back. I simply goes straight up and down more or less as a filler. You can use 3 or other material there too. 3 seemed to work better as it was slightly more rigid and I felt like it would act as a good middle buffer.
 

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firefox33

Outer Banks
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Your Bronco Model
Outer Banks
Clubs
 
That’s odd. Appears to be a mfg defect?
Yep. Right side missing the ”filler”. Did you have it on yours? It didn’t look like the roof would fit back on if I put all the gasket material on the side with the filler so I stopped and will take to the dealer. I tried looking up the part number (M2DB-S254A43-BAW) on the filler but couldn’t identify or it.
 

CowboyKid

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I'm the data guy from a few pages ago, and I made the improvements to the windshield + first (only) row of panels this week. I'm aiming to take a long series of measurements probably tomorrow morning to see the difference that the easy half makes.

No ETA at all on doing the hardshell back improvements, but at least we'll see how much of a difference the quick fixes make.
Any new info after the quick fixes?
 

negativezero

Big Bend
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Any new info after the quick fixes?
Yeah, thanks for asking! I actually ran a sound profile last weekend but had a low-yield relationship breakup and 3 emergency root canals this last week, so I haven't had time to transpose the video of the measurements into actual data points yet. I was hoping the blackout time of being on painkillers would actually help soothe the tedium of the task, but the theory fell apart when the brain realized it could just happily fall asleep in the chair instead.

It's OK - I'm getting to it :LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:
 

mpeugeot

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Yeah, thanks for asking! I actually ran a sound profile last weekend but had a low-yield relationship breakup and 3 emergency root canals this last week, so I haven't had time to transpose the video of the measurements into actual data points yet. I was hoping the blackout time of being on painkillers would actually help soothe the tedium of the task, but the theory fell apart when the brain realized it could just happily fall asleep in the chair instead.

It's OK - I'm getting to it :LOL::ROFLMAO::LOL:

Low Yield? lol, was critical mass not achieved for high order detonation?

Get well.

Since you have a Bronco, it's going to be easy to get a replacement. ;)
 

Bronkers

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So, we know these are Built Wild... but my wife didn't appreciate it sounding like a hurricane everyday. Who wouldn't want to hear the subtle guitar, bass, drums and notes of your favorite music on the sound system for which you paid? After reading 4+ threads and looking at various modifications people made, I decided to create a single guide here of everything I did to reduce the interior noise. The ideas are not all my own, and credit is due to those individuals whose brilliance came first. Shoutouts to some of those brilliant individuals- jlatigo, mountainbronco, Geo2 and more that I can't put my finger on.

My family says it's significantly quieter now, and I tend to do whatever they say. Hope this helps enhance your ride!

Total cost is about $75. Total install time is ~1 hour if your hard top is already off. If it's not off, what are you waiting for?

Specs
  • 4 Door- most of the below applies to both 2 and 4 door models
  • Wildtrak, Sasquatch
  • MIC Hard Top

Grocery List
(These are not affiliate links. I don't receive anything from you clicking on them!)
  1. KX Automotive Universal New Weather Stripping EPDM Rubber Seal Strip D-Shape (20')
  2. Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In (1 roll)
  3. KX Automotive Universal D-Shape Door Seal 0.47" Height X 0.55" Width Weather Stripping (10')
  4. Automotive Weather Stripping Door Window Rubber Seal Strip Z Shape (Buy the "Z" Shape- you only need about 3' of this, so you'll have a lot left over)
  5. Armacell 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation (You need 2 of these)

General Install Notes
  • Clean all surfaces before attempting to stick the adhesive
  • Let the adhesive bond- i.e. flex your muscles and secure firmly!
  • Use a regular scissors to cut things to length- most are approximate, and size doesn't matter as much (right?). The Z Shape strip is more visible, and you probably want to measure (hint, 15.5").
  • Some seals are hidden, and some are visible... take your time. If you screw up, cut a new strip. ;)

From the front of the vehicle working to the back...

Windshield
  • In the front channel, adhere #1 in the Grocery List inside the full length of the channel.
  • Cut 4 short strips of #2 and stick them 2 each, side by side, vertically in the ends of the channel.
  • All of this is hidden with the top on. With the top off, it will either look factory installed or like a small kid used the scissors if you don't cut straight. I have both results.
Windshield.jpg



Front Panels
  • Use the #1 stripping for all of these.
  • Primary guidance is to adhere the middle strip that goes on the Driver’s Front Panel to the slightly raised portion of the roof. Don’t adhere it to the top/roof section as it won’t allow the panel to close enough. It also makes for a cleaner look if you install on the raised portion.
  • The two strips that face the windshield are not visible. The strip that runs between the two panels is minimally visible.
Front Panels.jpg



Mid Panel
  • Secure #3 along the length of the mid panel. This is the curved side of the panel that faces towards the back.
  • Snuggle the stripping right along the edge and you'll look like a pro. This is visible from the inside once installed.
  • Super easy, right?
Mid Panel.jpg



Rear Panel
  • This is the fun one and makes a big sound impact!
  • The picture is probably the best explanation of what goes where.
  • I'm not sure if the top most #3 install is needed- and I forgot to take another picture of it properly adhered. It basically curves along a small section on top. I had some extra stripping, so I used it.
  • The small square of #2 goes on top of a similar, but thinner material that Ford already has in that same place.
  • The Z Shape #4 is great stuff, and I think makes the exterior even look a little sleek (no one ever described a Bronco as sleek, right?). I'd measure this one and cut accordingly- I did 15.5". Adhere it right along the edge of the panel. This helps with wind noise by sealing the gap between the frame of the Bronco and the rear panel.
  • This is not visible except for #4 (Z Shape stripping).
Interior View:
Rear Panel.jpg


Exterior View:
Rear Panel Exterior.jpg


To Pool Noodle or to Wrap Your Pipe
  • I saw various opinions on which material worked best, which ones disintegrated in the elements, how to secure, etc.
  • I decided to use the rubber Armacell pipe wrap - #5 on the Grocery List. It comes in a 6’ length, and I left it as-is.
  • I peeled off the self-adhering tape and stuck it to itself.
  • Rather than figure out how to secure it with the top off and/or how to not make it look bad… I decided I’d simply lay it in the roof gutter when I put the hard top on. Otherwise, it will sit in storage in my garage if the top is off.
  • We’ll see if it lasts- easy and inexpensive to replace.
Armacell Rubber.jpg



So that's about it. I suggest ordering everything and installing all at once when you have the roof off vs string betting the process.

Happy Sound Dampening!
GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR HELPFUL SOUL
 

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jmcl

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Missing C pillar part.
Did all but the rear panel. When I removed the top rear panel I discovered a missing plastic filler piece on the right side of the C pillar. Attached are photos. First photo is the left side with filler, second is right side missing the plastic filler and last is the filler removed for photos. I can’t see any function for the part other than a filler which may be there for wind noise.
Anyone else missing this part?

A98E9616-7A44-4AC6-AC7C-C2963B0405B2.jpeg


C720074D-5A39-4D80-BF4C-979F0ED24139.jpeg


7738AB3D-6541-4697-BB4D-24545F7D7965.jpeg
I am missing that piece on both sides. Let us know what the dealers says.
 

StoicAF

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Yo wtf. I’m missing both of mine.
 

Strykerwsu

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Yo wtf. I’m missing both of mine.
That’s for the soft top, if you have a hard top you don’t get them. Quite a few brackets different. Had to buy them all when bought a 2nd hand soft top for summer. Cost savings by Ford.
 

BigOleBuck

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The OP did a great write up and I hope it helps some people. Ive seen these threads before and dont really relate. I drove a 2 dr Jeep rubicon for the last 15 years. It rode like a tractor. The D rings rattled on every bump and you had to yell at each other at highway speeds. I loved it. Now I have the 2 dr Bronco with the squatch package. I feel like im in a luxury car when Im driving it. It rides so nice and is super quiet. I took it on a 5 hr road trip at interstate speeds and was super happy with the noise and ride. But then again I wasnt listening for the subtle notes of classical music. Im an outdoor person and by all accounts a bit neanderthal. So I guess it just comes down to perspective and expectations.
i think what youre missing is that people are experiencing varying levels of wind noise. Some report little to no noise and others are experiencing very loud wind noise. Mine personally sounds like i'm in a wind tunnel on the highway.
 

NVCowboy

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Not sure if I clicked watching when I replied to this the last time.
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