Minty, 2dr Badlands on 37's, My "Heritage" Build Thread!

[Mirage]

Just put those same coilovers on the rear of mine. They are firmer than stock, but feel far more controlled, if that makes sense. Much less body roll. Having only the rears gives me a weird contrast between OEM and aftermarket.

I also have gone slightly different way lifting mine, with a focus on weight. I bought the 315/70R17 Bridgestone Dueler REVO AT/3s which are crazy light at only 84lb with DX4 Recon wheels, and the coilovers are 6 pounds lighter than stock, so I'm at a net +2lb around all 4 corners, or will be, once I install the fronts. Currently looks like an old school muscle car with the ass end so high.

Cool! I couldn't pass up on the Spring sale of all of this! $1700 shipped for everything and got here within 4-5 days after ordering! Weight really isn't anything I'm concerned with, since my front bumper is 110lbs without the winch and I have the full Metalcloak Undercloak skid plates, along with massive 37" Mickey's, LOL!

It's crazy how level my 2" coil spacer lift was when I installed it and almost a year later, it's nose diving like a hot rod...., but, hopefully, this will all be fixed soon!

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[Mirage]

I’m interested to hear how the ProComp shocks work out. I’m headed for an update and looks at all options.

I will try to let you know next month, when we go riding, but from what I hear, it's a more scenic ride, then technical ride? For the price and all the positive reviews on these, I just couldn't pass them up!


But, if there's anything that looks tempting on the trail, I might try it? I have learned in my many years of riding offroad, to take it easy, cause it's a long ride home!

 

[Mirage]

Been busy busy all weekend, but tonight, I got a chance to remove most of the skid plates and front wheel liners, so I can start working on the new front lift tomorrow night! The rear lift shouldn't take long at all, maybe an hour or two? But the fronts will take a while to remove/install, so this will make it a little quicker tomorrow night!

 

[Mirage]

Oh! I ordered the ARB UVP's and will be attempting to sell my MC Undercloak? I really like ARB products! I had to buy new intercooler/bash plate mounts though? I thought I kept them from one of our bumper swaps, but I couldn't find them... $60 new from Ford, at least that's not too bad?

Also, since I have everything (skid plates) removed, I will change the oil and install my Baxter Spin-on Oil Filter adapter!

I may also be able to finish installing the support plates for the LoD front bumper?

And while I'm at it, I'm going to remove my cargo platform and install that damn OEM tow package system and then I have to use Forscan to activate it or something? I do have some new stuff coming, but it's just cosmetic

 

[Mirage]

Removed all the previous installed Metalcloak lift kit, plus the stock SAS shocks/springs.

Metalcloak UCA and 1.5" spacer lift on top of stock SAS shock.

New 4WP/Procomp Adjustable Coilovers & UCA's installed on the drivers side, but it was a total pain in the ass!

Everything torqued back to spec and wheel/tire back on, just because I didn't want it sitting on jack-stands all night..

I'm sure it'll drop after a test drive, but I have tons of adjustment now! I think it's preset to 3"?

Passengers side should be finished tomorrow afternoon/night, then Wednesday, I hope I can get the rear coilovers installed? I should get the front diff drop kit tomorrow as well?

I would like it to sit around 3"F/3.5"R, if possible, maybe a little higher, if I can 3.5"F/4"R??? I'm going to have to figure out if how/where to raise it too and be at safe front axles angles?

 

[Mirage]

Alrighty, record time removing the old lift from the front passengers side and installing the new coilover/UCA! I did it all in less than 2 hours! I greased all 6 points on the new UCA's and torqued everything down!

Walked into the house a little after 5pm and to my surprise, my Broken Innovations Diff Drop arrived!

And 5 hours later, I got it completely installed, because...., that rear 1/2" spacer is a major PITA to get between the support flange and diff and then to install those 2 new bolts was a nightmare! The top one went in easy but the bottom ones head washer/flange thingy hits the bushing support flange before it seated all the way... Maybe 3/8" gap? It's as tight as I can get it and there's no play, it just grabbed the bend of the mount and stopped... If it becomes an issue, I'll address it later or just take that spacer out. If you're reading this @TeocaliMG you might need to use a small bolt head in the future? The ones you supplied with the drop were 2 or 3 head sizes larger than what my OEM bolts were.... I can double check when I get home tomorrow, if needed? Anyway, I got the diff drop installed and reinstalled my sway bar!

Now I'm going to get a hot AF shower and attempt to get some sleep, before 5am gets here and I have to go back to work.... Tomorrow afternoon, I plan to get both sides of the rear lift installed! More pics to come soon! I've got a lot of stuff to do to this thing before we go riding next month!

 

[TeocaliMG]

Walked into the house a little after 5pm and to my surprise, my Broken Innovations Diff Drop arrived!

And 5 hours later, I got it completely installed, because...., that rear 1/2" spacer is a major PITA to get between the support flange and diff and then to install those 2 new bolts was a nightmare! The top one went in easy but the bottom ones head washer/flange thingy hits the bushing support flange before it seated all the way... Maybe 3/8" gap? It's as tight as I can get it and there's no play, it just grabbed the bend of the mount and stopped... If it becomes an issue, I'll address it later or just take that spacer out. If you're reading this @TeocaliMG you might need to use a small bolt head in the future? The ones you supplied with the drop were 2 or 3 head sizes larger than what my OEM bolts were.... I can double check when I get home tomorrow, if needed? Anyway, I got the diff drop installed and reinstalled my sway bar!

Hey Jason, glad you got it installed. I've heard from others that the rear mount is hard to get done, I thought it would be but for some reason it just went right in. Guess I got lucky!

For my clarification, are you getting collision between the head flange and the bracket "pocket" (see below)

If that's the case I would recommend loosening all the fasteners a bit to see if you can get it seated, and if that doesn't work, then i'd take the bolt out and grind the head flange down a bit. More important to get that bolt seated than to have the nice zinc coating intact. I'll look into ordering some smaller flange bolts in the future.

 

[Mirage]

Hey Jason, glad you got it installed. I've heard from others that the rear mount is hard to get done, I thought it would be but for some reason it just went right in. Guess I got lucky!

For my clarification, are you getting collision between the head flange and the bracket "pocket" (see below)

If that's the case I would recommend loosening all the fasteners a bit to see if you can get it seated, and if that doesn't work, then I'd take the bolt out and grind the head flange down a bit. More important to get that bolt seated than to have the nice zinc coating intact. I'll look into ordering some smaller flange bolts in the future.

Yep, my bracket seems to look a bit different than that one and the OEM bolt heads were a lot smaller than these new ones.... As hard as it was to get in there, I'm probably just going to leave it for now and order a new bolt, with that flange washer head...? My only concern is if something strips on the way out, then I'm screwed...

 

[TeocaliMG]

When you get a chance, can you take a picture of that rear bracket? Right now i'm just aware of two types. The M210 which uses M12 bolts and the M190 which uses M14's Maybe they changed the M210 at some point...

 

[Mirage]

When you get a chance, can you take a picture of that rear bracket? Right now i'm just aware of two types. The M210 which uses M12 bolts and the M190 which uses M14's Maybe they changed the M210 at some point...

I looked at it earlier and in the daylight, it kinda looks like it's not touching the bracket, but I cannot get it to tighten anymore at all. Last night, I got a small Phillips screwdriver to go all the way through the hole and it came out of the front side of the diff.... I took a pry bar and moved the diff all around and it that mount/bolt never moved? I'll keep an eye on it or just order a new bolt? They looked like fine threads last night?

Just checked my pic and yea, it's definitely not touching that bracket...

Also, last night, I ran the stock bolt through the hole and it might've grabbed a thread or two, but it wouldn't stay tight either.... Come to think of it, that OEM lower bolt was also harder to remove than the upper bolt was...? I know it's not ideal to leave it like that, but I'm worried if I mess with it anymore, that something bad will happen....

 

[Mirage]

Got the new rear coilovers installed after work and got all my Metalcloak Undercloak skid plates removed.

Off for the next 4 days, so I'm planning on getting a lot more finished to the Bronco, but this alone was a major step knocked out! I'll go for a test drive Sunday morning and see if she settles any? I didn't lose my alignment specs and I don't think the steering got out of wack either. I put a whopping 2-2500 miles on it in a year, so if the alignment's off a little, I don't think it'll hurt quickly, LOL! I want it to settle, so I can play around with the coilover adjustments!

 

[TeocaliMG]

I looked at it earlier and in the daylight, it kinda looks like it's not touching the bracket, but I cannot get it to tighten anymore at all. Last night, I got a small Phillips screwdriver to go all the way through the hole and it came out of the front side of the diff.... I took a pry bar and moved the diff all around and it that mount/bolt never moved? I'll keep an eye on it or just order a new bolt? They looked like fine threads last night?

Just checked my pic and yea, it's definitely not touching that bracket...

Also, last night, I ran the stock bolt through the hole and it might've grabbed a thread or two, but it wouldn't stay tight either.... Come to think of it, that OEM lower bolt was also harder to remove than the upper bolt was...? I know it's not ideal to leave it like that, but I'm worried if I mess with it anymore, that something bad will happen....

I wonder if theres an issue with that thread, at least it sounds more like a thread issue than a head issue.

The exact bolts I supply for this are:
Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Class 10.9 Steel Screws, Flanged Hex Head, M12 x 1.75mm, 50mm Long


If you got the time, i'd try to get a look at the threads and maybe run a tap through it to clean it out if something got messed up.

 

[Mirage]

I wonder if theres an issue with that thread, at least it sounds more like a thread issue than a head issue.

The exact bolts I supply for this are:
Zinc Yellow-Chromate Plated Class 10.9 Steel Screws, Flanged Hex Head, M12 x 1.75mm, 50mm Long


If you got the time, I'd try to get a look at the threads and maybe run a tap through it to clean it out if something got messed up.

I did have to run a die over the bolt you sent me, as it wouldn't even start at first... I'm worried if I remove it, something worse might happen... Not 100% sure I could even get a tap to go through that area? It's ridiculously an awkward, tight AF spot...

 

[Will2497]

What paint did you use to match? I've been looking for a good one for eruption green

 

[TeocaliMG]

I did have to run a dye over the bolt you sent me, as it wouldn't even start at first... I'm worried if I remove it, something worse might happen... Not 100% sure I could even get a tap to go through that area? It's ridiculously an awkward, tight AF spot...

hmmm, i'll gladly send you a couple new M12's if you want. I would certainly feel better if you get this thing properly bolted down.

Did the bolt threads look mis formed visually? I know getting a tap through the hole would be tougher than running the bolt through a die, but Mcmaster Carr has been pretty solid for me so far. Idk whats more likely between getting a bad thread from them vs Dana getting a crossthread out of the plant... i'll inspect threads closely from here on out. Feel free to PM me for more troubleshooting if you prefer.

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