More info on the factory accessory Trailer Brake Controller

[JTBros]

Hydraulic Surge Brakes do not require any electrical connection, they use the braking force of the tow vehicle, so only trailer lights need be connected (and on a boat I always unhook the flat four prior to launching).

Ah didn’t think of that. Easy solution then.

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[Dro]

The max rating is 3500lb so no one should tell you they will tow more than that. At least not in writing.

I’m aware of the max tow rating. Not looking to hold anyone accountable; simply asking what anyone’s thoughts are on capability.

 

[John Bronco_ I am here]

A brake controller is almost always optional, even with the towing package.

You are correct, however now-a-days in vehicles designed to tow a brake controller is part of the towing package and built-in. You can order a super duty with tow package and hitch from the factory, you can drive straight off the lot and hook up to your gooseneck, 5th wheel, or conventional trailer, if you choose the right options. Best thing since sliced bread if you ask me.

Where the confusion comes in is that a vehicle based on a 1/4 ton design is not a tow beast. So, you have folks coming in from both direction and expectations are different. Ford has accommodated both groups, which is a good thing in my book.

Personally, I'm happy with the tow rating. I can haul my adventure trailer easily and even haul my SxS on its trailer if I so desire. I can add a brake controller that is integrated to the system and those that do not need/want a controller do not have to pay the extra in the tow package for an undesired component.

 

[NotaVegetarian]

Brake controls should be standard with all tow packages

 

[jjack50]

I’m aware of the max tow rating. Not looking to hold anyone accountable; simply asking what anyone’s thoughts are on capability.

Rating is based on Davis Dam run which is more strenuous than old standards. Capability should far exceed class II 3500lb rating. Especially if actual payload in truck is limited and trailer is loaded to limit tongue weight but still balanced.

 

[Rocketeer Rick]

Ah didn’t think of that. Easy solution then.

It is an easier to implement system from the truck side. Surge brakes are hydraulic, and the master cylinder is actuated by the difference of inertia of the tow vehicle (while braking) and the trailer compresses the piston in the master cylinder. So, to install the system on the trailer, you have to install the hydraulic system. That includes changing out the trailer tongue coupler with one that includes the master cylinder, run the lines, install the brakes themselves and bleed the system out. By contrast, normal electric brakes are a bit simpler in the trailer side execution. You just bolt them on and run the wires.

Also note that surge brakes work because the truck slows down quicker than the trailer while braking. But that has the consequence of surge brakes activating while backing up, because the truck is pushing against the tongue is a similar way. Some systems can lock out the brakes while backing up to prevent this. Surge brakes, in my experience, tend to be rather jerky in operating too. but maybe that's not universal. Another disadvantage of surge brakes is the lack of the ability for the driver to directly control them. When I'm towing my camper, its nice to be able to lead with the trailer in certain braking situations - basically start applying the trailer brakes before touching the foot pedal. That's also useful in emergency situations, as noted by others.

Also, with regards to not requiring brakes for trailers below 3500 lb, that varies greatly depending on where you are. Here in NY, trailers that are 1000 lb and over while empty or any trailer that's GVW is above 3000 lb requires brakes. So, outside of a simple 4x8 utility trailer or something in that vein, you need trailer brakes by law while trailering in NY. That likely includes a 2000 lb teardrop. I strongly suspect that also applies to folks passing through the state on the way somewhere else. You'd probably never get caught if you didn't unless there was an accident. But you should be aware of the laws in the places you do go...

 

[Dro]

Rating is based on Davis Dam run which is more strenuous than old standards. Capability should far exceed class II 3500lb rating. Especially if actual payload in truck is limited and trailer is loaded to limit tongue weight but still balanced.

Just looking into some small RVs that are around 3300 unloaded and wondering if it’d be crazy to have total weight close to 4000lbs once loaded up. I know its not recommended but am I really risking a lot by pushing 500lbs over limit?

 

[Rocketeer Rick]

Just looking into some small RVs that are around 3300 unloaded and wondering if it’d be crazy to have total weight close to 4000lbs once loaded up. I know its not recommended but am I really risking a lot by pushing 500lbs over limit?

Depends on what you're doing. Its a risk to benefit calculation you'd have to make. I'm sure a lot of people do it, but a lot of people do things that they have no business doing in a motor vehicle. A friend of mine used to tow a utility trailer with Saturn SL2 loaded with hardwood lumber when he'd make runs to the Amish saw mill. The Saturn had no right to tow anything, much less a trailer that weighed almost as much as it did. Now he tows with a Prius, big step up...

 

[wrbix]

Going a bit off topic here, but.....those of you who tow small/light off road teardrop or similar trailers, can you recommend a brand or type please.

 

[2Jeeps&PatriotX1]

Just looking into some small RVs that are around 3300 unloaded and wondering if it’d be crazy to have total weight close to 4000lbs once loaded up. I know its not recommended but am I really risking a lot by pushing 500lbs over limit?

Stuff adds up fast though. My trailer weighs 2200lb dry, add gear, tools, 40gal water, electronics, dual batteries, solar panels, food, drinks for 2people for 7-8days, etc and it sits at 3390lbs fully loaded.

 

[JTBros]

@Rocketeer Rick not gonna bother quoting to clog up the thread but all good info thank you.
I’d most likely buy the trailer pre-set up with the surge brakes. The boats I’ve been looking at all have them already equipped on their trailers.

If I feel the need to I’ll definitely switch to electric but Long Island is pretty flat. Only worry would be if I took it to Vermont and dealing with those mountains.

 

[Rocketeer Rick]

@Rocketeer Rick not gonna bother quoting to clog up the thread but all good info thank you.
I’d most likely buy the trailer pre-set up with the surge brakes. The boats I’ve been looking at all have them already equipped on their trailers.

If I feel the need to I’ll definitely switch to electric but Long Island is pretty flat. Only worry would be if I took it to Vermont and dealing with those mountains.

Yeah, boat trailers use the surge brakes because apparently its a bad idea to stick electromagnetic brakes into the water. Who knew? So on that end, its real common. If that's all the trailering you're going to do, then that's a fine solution. It can also be acceptable on other trailer types - Uhaul, for example, equips their rental trailers with surge brakes because their average customer isn't equipped to use electric brakes. But electric brakes are generally more effective if they can be used.

 

[jjack50]

@Rocketeer Rick not gonna bother quoting to clog up the thread but all good info thank you.
I’d most likely buy the trailer pre-set up with the surge brakes. The boats I’ve been looking at all have them already equipped on their trailers.

If I feel the need to I’ll definitely switch to electric but Long Island is pretty flat. Only worry would be if I took it to Vermont and dealing with those mountains.

The trailer brakes are important to prevent jackknife in a sudden stop too. Especially with a trailer that weighs a substantial percentage of the weight of the tow vehicle.

 

[JTBros]

Yeah, boat trailers use the surge brakes because apparently its a bad idea to stick electromagnetic brakes into the water. Who knew? So on that end, its real common. If that's all the trailering you're going to do, then that's a fine solution.

Yep trailering boats is all I’ll be doing. Right now all I tow is maybe 500lbs which I can’t even feel. Saw that surge brakes are really the only option and would likely do any camping on the roof or outside the car.

The trailer brakes are important to prevent jackknife in a sudden stop too. Especially with a trailer that weighs a substantial percentage of the weight of the tow vehicle.

Good to know! Boat I’m looking at now is 2500lbs so would be pushing it. Finding the trailer weight has been unfortunately difficult.

 

[t3n2and4]

Going a bit off topic here, but.....those of you who tow small/light off road teardrop or similar trailers, can you recommend a brand or type please.

There’s a 24 page thread here: https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...anding-camper-trailers-ideal-for-bronco.3162/

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